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Rinonz 2012 CBR600RR Red/White Build Thread

54K views 227 replies 44 participants last post by  rinonz 
#1 ·
I thought I should consolidate all my posts into 1 thread.

Had a couple of CBR600RR previously

2006 Movistar


Which was replaced with 2005 CBR1000RR RED (best colour ever)


Then a 2008 Red/ Black CBR600RR



Replaced with 2012 Red/ White CBR600RR (Current)


And the fun begins....

21 February 2013

Gutted my intake. Did the splitting in half method very clean result and didn't need any dremelling.

Took 2.5hrs including removing the fairing and putting it back on.


30 June 2013

In the last 3 days.

Did a 800km (8.5hours) round trip in the middle of winter starting at 4AM with 8 degree celcius cold (46 Farenheit) to get my suspension sorted by one of the few Ohlins Dealers in NZ the same guy that does the suspension work for the top NZ SBK riders. A top notch dude.



Pretty.....


Front being revalved and resprung


Rear installed.


Came back the same day; and the next morning went for a quick shake down on familiar road.
The difference the suspension works made is amazing.. Bike turns in a lot quicker and hold its line like its on rail.
Gone are the pogo stick feeling mid corner.

Then came home and decided to install Annitori Quick shifter that arrived a couple of days ago.


A quick hint if you're installing the quickshifter; you don't need to remove the tank.
Just undo both side fairings and undo the top and bottom bolt of the radiator.
The radiator will swing forward giving you enough space to plug the Annitori wiring.
Mine was a bit hard to push in as the Annitori plug has thicker rubber gasket than the OEM plug.
There is also a grounding point on the frame so you don't need to run the ground wire back to the battery.

Haven't had a chance to go for a ride yet but running through the gear on the rear stand sounds awesome and looks very smooth.
We'll see how it goes on the track next week.
 
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#2 ·
5 September 2013

Replaced my front brake pads with Brembo SC compound ready for track day tomorrow.

OEM Pad lasted just under 10000km (6200 miles) Not bad considering a quarter of it was spent on the track.





7 September 2013

Started with adding 5ml of oil onto the fork to fix bottoming out issue on the track...


Easy stuff..

Then decided to install the Accossato Quick Action Throttle kit.
Fairing off



3 hours later
Airbox all out (freaking pain the the everything)


Throttle body


I can even see the valve



4.5 hours from the start it's finally all done and put back together



I've put the biggest cam in which makes it about 1/8 turn.. we'll see how it goes next week.

Very stoke with the result but damn it took a long time.
:gun1:



21 September 2013

Received the -1/+2 sprocket and chain from motomummy yesterday.

Took it down to the shop to get it installed because it cost about the same as buying a chain tool.



Went home and spend an hour installing and calibrating Speedo DRD (also from Motomummy


In case anyone interested for 2012 CBR600RR which came with 41 tooth rear sprocket; the correction factor is -14% to be very exact; but I put mine at -13.1% to give 1 or 2 kph higher reading to give me breathing space in case I accidentally pull the throttle while cruising.

It now runs around 7k rpm on the motorway but by golly the acceleration combined with the Accossato Quick Action Throttle is fun, very very fun...

Can't wait to do proper shakedown on the track next month.

Also the chain with wax to keep rust away; when you install a new chain. Always remember to wash the wax away with kerosene or WD40 because those wax flung like crazy and they are sticky to the body work.

Spent about an hour cleaning the chain and the wheel after coming home from the shop. Grrrrrr
 
#5 ·
i like your old 2008,are/were the mids carbon wrapped? look great
 
#7 ·
Raj: I try to do at least 12 sessions per year.
The improvement that Ohlins made is significant and worth the money.
Even for the road when you're going at pace.
Plus the standard springs (front and rear) were too heavy for my weight

Ash: It's carbon fibre from 1carbontech. Unfortunately that bike is destroyed when a driver decided to chat with his passenger rather than looking forward during rush hour traffic and sandwiched the bike between his car and another car in front of the bike.

Honda Precision: I might do my PAIR delete through the radiator side this week rather than opening the airbox again... LOL

As for plan:
Slipper clutch, header and Bazzaa/PCV are in the card but for now I don't see much value for them yet.

I've only had a handful of ocssions where the rear got a bit hairy on hard braking almost all of them involve trying to outbrake litre bike at the end of back straight :banger:

There are little things like PAIR delete and wavy rear rotor sitting in my garage ready to go this week :thumbup:

Other than that money will go for tyres and track day entry fees :)
 
#8 ·
If you decide to go the radiator route to do the PAIR you can plug the airbox hole without removing it from the inside. If you want to remove the hose going to it you will probably still have to pull the airbox up slightly to get the metal clip off the hose then pull the PAIR out from the radiator opening. Although you probably already know this :D

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#13 · (Edited)
PAIR Block Off

After much deliberation I've decided to install the PAIR block off plate from the top.

Which means taking apart the airbox again!!! yayy

Good news is it only takes 2 hours this time and managed to grab some pictures.

Remember to unplug this blue connector and the little rubber hose when lifting off the bottom part of the airbox; and don't forget to plug them back in when putting things back together


Here's the PAIR still intact


The left side is a bit harder; less space to work on but they're not too bad.
I'm glad I went from the top, going through the radiator will be more painful and I probably will end taking off the airbox anyway


Also found out that the right most bolt has some rush on it. odd for 1 year old bike. A bit of brushing and wd40 take care of it


I also noticed that the reed has rubber seal around it; so I decided to leave it on to make sure it has good seal with the block off plate.
It also means I don't need to put gasket sealant on it.


Left side installed


Both installed ... YAYYY; looks much cleaner and there is a couple of grams of weight reduction LOL.
I tape the connecter with ample amount of electrical tape and cable tie it to the rubber ring that used to hold the PAIR system.
This rubber ring is also used to hold the ignition cable; so better leave it there.


Vacuum block on the airbox



It's a very time consuming mod and unless you're getting fuel controller, it doesn't give any gain or benefit.
Only do it when you're planning on going around the same area.
e.g. to install quick action throttle/ replacing throttle cable, installing Quickshifter and/or fuel controller.

Don't be dumb like me and do the above mods on separate times which equals removing the airbox multiple times. :retard:
Practice makes perfect.....
 
#14 ·
Fuel tank cover install trick

I remember seeing this somewhere; possibly this forum.

Do you hate it when the rubber seal around the fuel cap get pushed in when installing the fuel tank cover?
Leaving you having it jiggle and use screwdriver to try to pull the rubber seal back up risking scratching your tank cover with screwdriver?

Fear no more.

Using masking tape, tape around the rubber seal


Then install the fuel tank cover (just push it in)


Peel off the masking tape


Voila.... Tank cover installed perfectly :banger:
 
#15 ·
Galfer Wave Rear Disc

Part of the package that I received from Motomummy is Galfer Wave rear brake rotor.

Original rotor 800grams


Galfer 540grams


So that's about 260grams weight reduction.
Probably won't be noticeable or make me go faster.
But for $100, it's worth doing for shits and giggles. :retard:

Plus they look pretty. :cruising:
 
#25 ·
#28 ·
Here's my shopping list so far (probably should have bought MV F3 in the first place :banghead: lol)

Suspension
Ohlins TTX Mk2 sprung and setup for me
Ohlins front spring with OEM valve; we opened the forks and the OEM valve are good with plenty of holes for fast action; so we only replaced the spring and the shim stacks.

Engine/ performance/ whatever
Annitori Quick shifter
Sato Rear set

Driven -1/+2 with 520 chain conversion
Accosato Quick Action Throttle
GIPro Gear Indicator
12 o'Clock Speedo DRD (Healer)

Driven PAIR Block off plate
PAIR System removed
Akrapovic titanium Slip on with Titanium mid pipe
Gutted air intake

Galfer Wave rear disc

Cosmetic
R&G Tail tidy
Stomp grip tank pad
Ebay special rear seat cowl
Ebay random rim tape

Consumables
Michelin Power Supersport tyres
Brembo SC Compound front pads
 
#29 ·
Took a day off work and went for a trackday today.

A bit of drizzle at the end of session one, clear session 2; but after that the drizzle becomes heavier.

As soon as the front and rear are sliding on the wet track; I've decided to call it a day and go home.

Today is the first time I ran with the new gearing and quick action throttle.
By golly, they are awesome....
Bike is definitely much more alive; highly recommended if your track doesn't have super long straight.

At the end of back straight I have about 2k rpm left at the braking marker and doing 225kph. So I think my top speed is only around 245 - 260kph....

LOL

Here's what the track looks like


Here's a picture I took tonight
 
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