Official Dyno Chart Thread - Page 6 - 600RR.net
Exhaust & Fuel Delivery Tips on how to get the most out of your bike

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post #151 of 160 (permalink) Old 02-17-2015, 11:29 AM
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Official Dyno Chart Thread

2008 cbr600rr custom mapped by Tim Blakemore racing



Yoshi RS-5 slip on custom shortened

MJS cat delete mid pipe (stock headers)

PC V

K&N air filter



115.26 HP

45.52 ft-lbs torque


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Last edited by dkid; 02-23-2015 at 01:34 AM.
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post #152 of 160 (permalink) Old 02-22-2015, 04:56 PM
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That's 115whp, not bhp. Bhp is at the crank.

Too many people misuse bhp. Decent gains nevertheless.

2007 Honda CBR125R
2004 Suzuki GS500F
2006 Honda CBR600RR (Current)
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post #153 of 160 (permalink) Old 03-27-2015, 08:53 PM
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http://postimg.org/image/wmvpth1zj/

07 600rr
Custom Tune from Frank at Powerhouse MC in West Babylon, NY
Full KR Tuned Exhaust, BMC race air filter
111.07 whp 42.42 max torque best pull uncorrected
115.70 whp 47.70 max torque corrected
Both runs with exhaust and filter installed

Last edited by NYHCRR2590; 03-27-2015 at 08:59 PM. Reason: picture link wouldnt work
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post #154 of 160 (permalink) Old 08-28-2015, 04:34 PM
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07 600RR
BMC Race Filter
Arrow full system
PCV Tuned by MPH OHIO

This chart shows the bike on U4.4. I wanted to try race fuel vs Pump and wasnt willing to deal with the extra work associated with MR12 which would have make bigger HP. My bike only made 1.5 more peak HP on the U4 vs pump and at no point in any rpm range did U4 make any real gains in HP. I cannot explain it but the bike does feel more crisp off the corners but it isnt seen on the Dyno so it could be placebo.

Another interesting note is that my bike loss almost 5 HP when the tune was strictly set to 13/1 AFR. My tuner spent a ton of time trying leaner and richer settings. Thought this was pretty cool fact since most people just set a 13 to 1 ratio and call it good.
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post #155 of 160 (permalink) Old 09-24-2015, 09:57 PM
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Rather then searching through all the posts some wanna tell me why such a wide variance in dyno specs with most of us having the same mods
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post #156 of 160 (permalink) Old 09-29-2015, 12:46 PM
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likely atmospheric conditions. Density Altitude plays a major role in A:F management. there's also calibration differences between machines that can give different results.

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post #157 of 160 (permalink) Old 01-28-2016, 11:52 AM
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My 2011 cbr600rr has full yoshimura rs-5 carbon tip exhaust system with PC3 and tune, producing 118hp and 47lb of torque
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post #158 of 160 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 04:30 PM
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Just got tuned yesterday. Decent results considering. Kind of a warm day but hey

2006 CBR600RR
complete engine rebuild, oem parts, honing, valve job etc
.018" head gasket
ported heads
Akrpovic TI full exhaust
PCIII

CA 91 Pump

108.45 rwhp, 44.60 rwtq
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post #159 of 160 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 08:30 AM
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What is a "Pair removal"
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post #160 of 160 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lance2018 View Post
What is a "Pair removal"
This is from Pair Valve

"The Pair Valve, or "Secondary Air System" is a pollution control "Passive Air Injection" device, designed to "wash out" the purposely rich exhaust of the new metric bikes in order to pass EPA restrictions for import in the United States and other countries with similar restrictions. Many foreign designated models do not even come with a pair valve, although all other aspects of the bike's engine are the same. (The triangular (or oval) box is a tool box on most foreign models)

The sole purpose for the Pair Valve is to passively "Inject" fresh air into the exhaust system at the exhaust port, to cause ignition of unburned fuel vapor *before* it leaves the exhaust pipes, or to thin out the mixture with enough air to fool the sniffer machines. Unburned fuel vapors enter the exhaust system whenever you back off the throttle, or gear down. When you close the throttle, as in gearing down or slowing down, the drop in vacuum at the intake port allows the Pair Valve to relax and open and allow air from the air filter box to be "siphoned" into the exhaust port by the negative pressure at the exhaust ports. (there are reed valves in the pair valve to prevent backflow from the exhaust to enter the pair valve and airbox during roll-on and subsequent positive exhaust port pressure).

On the rare occasions that the pair system is working as designed, there is no erratic popping or gurgling in the exhaust system. There should be either no additional sound at all, or a steady "afterburn" effect, similar to an eighteen wheeler's "Jake Brake", a compression release speed reducer for large trucks.

Many people who have replaced their exhaust system with louder, lower backpressure pipes, have experienced an increase in the rapid popping/gurgling noises when throttling back and gearing down. With less backpressure, the exhaust vapors tend to load up in the system, and ignition of these vapors is sporadic and annoying. This popping occurs further down in the pipes, and is louder because of more open baffles, or no baffles at all. The quick fix for this is to simply "plug up" the air tubes that go into the cylinder walls, thereby preventing the air from getting there in the first place, thus, no "in-the-pipe" ignition. You may still experience some occasional popping, set off by the intense heat, but it is much less frequent.

Removing or disabling the Pair Valve will have no ill effects whatsoever to the bike even if its is still stock. The pair valve system will likely clog with carbon after a year or so, and quit working anyway. Removal is simple, and will take less than an hour once you have all the "stuff" together.

The presence or absence of the Pair Valve does not affect your fuel mileage, power, or general engine running condition. It's purpose is solely to thin out the exhaust mixture so that it will pass all available emission control standards, and this "thinning out" occurs at the exhaust ports *after* the pistons and spark plugs have done their job.

If you completely remove the Pair Valve from the bike, two air inlet holes will be left in the cylinder casings that must be blocked off with solid plates, an airbox outlet nipple (LC Models) and a vacuum nipple that must be capped, and if you choose to remove the chrome Pair Valve Housing box, there will be three 6 mm screw holes that should be filled, to give a finished appearance to the engine."

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