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post #1 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Removal

Hello,

Has anyone removed and installed the motor from the frame by themselves? If so, I would appreciate any advice and tips.

Thanks,
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post #2 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 04:33 PM
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Yes.

Tips, Get a manual. www.helminc.com

I've seen people get the motor out and still have the forks and swingarm attached. ('07 and up) '06 and down, the swingarm bolt goes through the motor. I have always stripped everything off.

You will need a special tool or 2. depending on what year bike.

Replacing motor or rebuilding?

What year bike?


My tip. Every bolt I take out, I thread back into the hole it came from. I never loose bolts, forget one or use the wrong one.

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post #3 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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post #4 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 11:58 AM
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you'll only need one special tool to remove the engine. Someone said that they borrowed one from their local shop. I would feel weird asking to borrow tools but I am a machinist, so I made my own. I have no Idea what they cost either. It doesn't look too complex, I'd guess $30.

Wiring isn't too bad to re-install. just lay the wiring ECU connectors where the ECU hooks up and everything else seems to fall into place.

I don't know what else to say, Any questions, I'd be glad to help.

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post #5 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 12:00 PM
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DCOPE17, im calling you when i rebuild/replace my motor in my 06. :)

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post #6 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hello,

Beside the special tool

I am asking about actuall removing the engine from the frame by yourself.

After you take the engine frame bolts. How many support stands do you use so the motor just doesn't drop on the floor? Were you able to install the motor back up in the frame by yourself?




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Originally Posted by dcope17 View Post
you'll only need one special tool to remove the engine. Someone said that they borrowed one from their local shop. I would feel weird asking to borrow tools but I am a machinist, so I made my own. I have no Idea what they cost either. It doesn't look too complex, I'd guess $30.

Wiring isn't too bad to re-install. just lay the wiring ECU connectors where the ECU hooks up and everything else seems to fall into place.

I don't know what else to say, Any questions, I'd be glad to help.
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post #7 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 04:18 PM
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No problem Scorpion.

I took the bike completely apart. I put the bike on front and rear stands. Took everything off except for forks, swingarm and engine.

I have woodcraft rearsets that don't fold so I put some jack stands under the pegs and removed the rear stand then the swingarm.

This part was hard but I took out the front stand and removed the forks. (I didn't remove the triple clamps) The bike wasn't as heavy at the front with the jack stands under the pegs as compared to the swingarm spools.

Now all you have is an engine and frame. Took out the engine mounting bolts and lifted off the frame.

Ride hard today, Ride harder tomorrow,!
Walk close to Christ today, Walk closer tomorrow

How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034
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post #8 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information


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Originally Posted by dcope17 View Post
No problem Scorpion.

I took the bike completely apart. I put the bike on front and rear stands. Took everything off except for forks, swingarm and engine.

I have woodcraft rearsets that don't fold so I put some jack stands under the pegs and removed the rear stand then the swingarm.

This part was hard but I took out the front stand and removed the forks. (I didn't remove the triple clamps) The bike wasn't as heavy at the front with the jack stands under the pegs as compared to the swingarm spools.

Now all you have is an engine and frame. Took out the engine mounting bolts and lifted off the frame.
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post #9 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 07:54 PM
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dcope seems to have covered most of it. I would recommend an extra set of hands to help during the removal. It isn't nesesarily needed but it certainly helps. Just be careful not to let them remove anything if their not going to be there to help re-install cause you may not know where they removed bolt x and y. Also keep a few extra baggies or small boxes handy to place removed items into. Nothing worse than kicking around extra parts or trying to remember exaclty which bolt goes where. Another common sense tip would be to do the removal and reinstall as soon together as possible to eliminate forgetting how things came apart, but definitely have a manual for torque settings and diagrams
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post #10 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-18-2008, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information


quote=Wolley;1957555]dcope seems to have covered most of it. I would recommend an extra set of hands to help during the removal. It isn't nesesarily needed but it certainly helps. Just be careful not to let them remove anything if their not going to be there to help re-install cause you may not know where they removed bolt x and y. Also keep a few extra baggies or small boxes handy to place removed items into. Nothing worse than kicking around extra parts or trying to remember exaclty which bolt goes where. Another common sense tip would be to do the removal and reinstall as soon together as possible to eliminate forgetting how things came apart, but definitely have a manual for torque settings and diagrams[/quote]
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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What size is the Allen Wrench for the Swing Arm Bolt



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Originally Posted by dcope17 View Post
No problem Scorpion.

I took the bike completely apart. I put the bike on front and rear stands. Took everything off except for forks, swingarm and engine.

I have woodcraft rearsets that don't fold so I put some jack stands under the pegs and removed the rear stand then the swingarm.

This part was hard but I took out the front stand and removed the forks. (I didn't remove the triple clamps) The bike wasn't as heavy at the front with the jack stands under the pegs as compared to the swingarm spools.

Now all you have is an engine and frame. Took out the engine mounting bolts and lifted off the frame.
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 04:39 PM
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It's been a while but I want ot say it was an 18mm
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-19-2008, 11:52 PM
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Left side is 17mm and`right side is 19mm. I use a 3/4 allen instead of the 19mm. It is a little tighter fit but it works.

Ride hard today, Ride harder tomorrow,!
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How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=138034
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for you help Bro.

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Left side is 17mm and`right side is 19mm. I use a 3/4 allen instead of the 19mm. It is a little tighter fit but it works.
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:09 AM Thread Starter
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What year is your bike?

I have a 2005

The reason I ask is I don't have a Allen bolt on the right side of my bike.

Only on the left side


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Left side is 17mm and`right side is 19mm. I use a 3/4 allen instead of the 19mm. It is a little tighter fit but it works.
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:04 PM
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Mine is an '06. I thought they'd be the same.

Parts fiche shows both being the same.

Right side is like an axle going through the swingarm with the 19mm hex and on the left is like the nut with the 17mm head.

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How to fix headlights... Dreamzboy's excellent write-up
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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-20-2008, 12:27 PM Thread Starter
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Hmm maybe mine came loose and fell off.

Thanks again for the info.



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Mine is an '06. I thought they'd be the same.

Parts fiche shows both being the same.

Right side is like an axle going through the swingarm with the 19mm hex and on the left is like the nut with the 17mm head.
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 10:33 AM
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having the manual will help extremely.
also, here's a picture of what it's suppose to look like on the left side..i don't have a picture on the right side, but the two hex head bolts (upper motor mount bolt on top and swingarm bolt below circled red) go through the right side and is secured with a nut and hex nut respectively on the left side..take a look at the picture of the left side, and if what you mean by "not having a hex nut on the right side" is because you have a regular nut, like this picture..it's on backwards or you just lost a nut.

i used a set of modded car wheel bolts that was welded back to back, that i got from a friend on here to remove those large hex. one's 17mm and other is 19mm. but before i removed the motor, i also removed the rear swingarm while the bike was secured with jackstands on the lower rear part of frame (this was kinda dangerous as it wasn't wide enough to be stable, but i was careful not to rock the bike too much). once swingarm was off, i placed some plywood under the motor and lifted the rear up enough to kick the stand out of the way and lowered frame/motor to ground/plywood so the oil pan is now resting on wood. now strip the bike away.
just use sandwich bags with labels so you know what goes where, or do what i did and replace the bolts nuts right back where they were once removed. the manual is pretty good with each step and also torque spec in specific sequence when mounting motor back.
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome Bro!!!

Great Illistration. Just what I needed. Instead of wood to prop up the front of the motor I plan to use Cinder Blocks. What do you think about using the Cinder Blocks.

Thanks,

Tim




Quote:
Originally Posted by v6pwr View Post
having the manual will help extremely.
also, here's a picture of what it's suppose to look like on the left side..i don't have a picture on the right side, but the two hex head bolts (upper motor mount bolt on top and swingarm bolt below circled red) go through the right side and is secured with a nut and hex nut respectively on the left side..take a look at the picture of the left side, and if what you mean by "not having a hex nut on the right side" is because you have a regular nut, like this picture..it's on backwards or you just lost a nut.

i used a set of modded car wheel bolts that was welded back to back, that i got from a friend on here to remove those large hex. one's 17mm and other is 19mm. but before i removed the motor, i also removed the rear swingarm while the bike was secured with jackstands on the lower rear part of frame (this was kinda dangerous as it wasn't wide enough to be stable, but i was careful not to rock the bike too much). once swingarm was off, i placed some plywood under the motor and lifted the rear up enough to kick the stand out of the way and lowered frame/motor to ground/plywood so the oil pan is now resting on wood. now strip the bike away.
just use sandwich bags with labels so you know what goes where, or do what i did and replace the bolts nuts right back where they were once removed. the manual is pretty good with each step and also torque spec in specific sequence when mounting motor back.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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what kind of tool did you use to take off the weird lock nut on the upper rear engine bolt?


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Originally Posted by v6pwr View Post
having the manual will help extremely.
also, here's a picture of what it's suppose to look like on the left side..i don't have a picture on the right side, but the two hex head bolts (upper motor mount bolt on top and swingarm bolt below circled red) go through the right side and is secured with a nut and hex nut respectively on the left side..take a look at the picture of the left side, and if what you mean by "not having a hex nut on the right side" is because you have a regular nut, like this picture..it's on backwards or you just lost a nut.

i used a set of modded car wheel bolts that was welded back to back, that i got from a friend on here to remove those large hex. one's 17mm and other is 19mm. but before i removed the motor, i also removed the rear swingarm while the bike was secured with jackstands on the lower rear part of frame (this was kinda dangerous as it wasn't wide enough to be stable, but i was careful not to rock the bike too much). once swingarm was off, i placed some plywood under the motor and lifted the rear up enough to kick the stand out of the way and lowered frame/motor to ground/plywood so the oil pan is now resting on wood. now strip the bike away.
just use sandwich bags with labels so you know what goes where, or do what i did and replace the bolts nuts right back where they were once removed. the manual is pretty good with each step and also torque spec in specific sequence when mounting motor back.
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 04:34 PM
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i didn't have to remove that lock nut, i left it on. just remove the left side nut, and use a screwdriver or allen key placed against the motor bolt and tap it out through the right side...the lock nut remains in place. it's there to put pressure on the collar/bushing used to align the motor's right side. once you tap and pull the motor bolt out, use a hammer and gently tap that collar until comes out, and once one collar is free the other is free also because tension is not there anymore. now, the motor is free assuming you have removed front mount bolts. installing is reversed..i temporarily put the swingarm bolt and collar in place so it will align the motor's rear..then put left upper collar in place and push against motor to make room for right collar..you will gently tap that collar back into position between motor and the adjusting bolt/lock nut and look through the frame/motor mount hole to see if it's clear to stick the motor bolt through..if the collar is not aligned, just look through the mount hole to see which way it needs slight tap to align with hole to drive bolt through frame/collar/motor. again, i cannot emphasize enough...a service manual is very useful for this..you can try and search the internet forums for a free copy...or buy one.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 11-21-2008, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks,

Looks like I can start my project this weekend.


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i didn't have to remove that lock nut, i left it on. just remove the left side nut, and use a screwdriver or allen key placed against the motor bolt and tap it out through the right side...the lock nut remains in place. it's there to put pressure on the collar/bushing used to align the motor's right side. once you tap and pull the motor bolt out, use a hammer and gently tap that collar until comes out, and once one collar is free the other is free also because tension is not there anymore. now, the motor is free assuming you have removed front mount bolts. installing is reversed..i temporarily put the swingarm bolt and collar in place so it will align the motor's rear..then put left upper collar in place and push against motor to make room for right collar..you will gently tap that collar back into position between motor and the adjusting bolt/lock nut and look through the frame/motor mount hole to see if it's clear to stick the motor bolt through..if the collar is not aligned, just look through the mount hole to see which way it needs slight tap to align with hole to drive bolt through frame/collar/motor. again, i cannot emphasize enough...a service manual is very useful for this..you can try and search the internet forums for a free copy...or buy one.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 12-09-2008, 09:37 PM
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here this will help.

http://www.stephygee.com/

skip the intro, go to the bottom and click "manuals" then find the model on the bottom!

cheers
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 10:28 AM
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I have taken an engine out of an R6, i did not use anything to jack up the bike or motor. I left it on the kickstand and used a tire and a board to put under the motor. I had a buddy help me when it came time to the swingarm bolt. I have never taken out a honda motor, but if it is like an R6 there are shims on the frame where the motor mounts to, turn them like a screw and they extend out and in. Figured that out after scratching my head and wondering why the new motor was not going in easily.

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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-25-2009, 07:12 PM
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This thread rocks!! I'm removing an engine next week!!

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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 08-27-2009, 06:12 PM
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This thread rocks!!!



I have got my work cut out for me and will take all the info/ and help i can get!

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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-04-2009, 07:56 PM
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Some cool tips here .. thanks :)
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:50 PM
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Any idea on how to get the F/R motor mount bolt out if it is bent without damaging the frame?
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 08:58 PM
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Any idea on how to get the F/R motor mount bolt out if it is bent without damaging the frame?
How badly is it bent? Any pics?
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 01-09-2015, 01:51 PM
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Hey guys. I have a 2010cbr600rr. I'm trying to get the throttle body off. I've got everything disconnected and the 4 clamps loose but I can't get the body to come loose from the rubbers. Can I do some serious prying upwards and not damage anything? Or am I missing something?
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