What would cause my bike to lose power/sputter while riding? - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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What would cause my bike to lose power/sputter while riding?

I have lately noticed my bike being jerky sometimes, I'll watch my RPM's and they will drop for a split second and go right back and it goes like that for a while and eventually it stops.

I was just riding and it got pretty bad, almost to where I couldnt ride home.

I put fuel injection cleaner in my tank, What else could it be? Spark plugs? I have 13,000 miles, valves havent been cleaned yet.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 07:24 AM
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Could be a worn out chain/sprockets.

Edit: I'm a knucklehead. I didn't pay attention to your "RPM" comments.
Disregard anything I post on this site.

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Unfortunately bikes fall over. It's in their nature.
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 09:26 AM
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I would say its a fuel issue, and that as a result your plugs have fouled. Pull out the plugs give them a clean and put them back in, run a couple of tanks with injector cleaner and see how you go.
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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-11-2010, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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It FEELS like a fuel issue, like it's intermittently not getting gas so it wants to stall. Thanks for the tips I'll try it out and keep you posted.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesX88 View Post
I put fuel injection cleaner in my tank, What else could it be? Spark plugs? I have 13,000 miles, valves havent been cleaned yet.
What they don't tell you is that fuel system cleaner automatically fouls spark plugs.
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-12-2010, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesX88 View Post
I have lately noticed my bike being jerky sometimes, I'll watch my RPM's and they will drop for a split second and go right back and it goes like that for a while and eventually it stops.

I was just riding and it got pretty bad, almost to where I couldnt ride home.

I put fuel injection cleaner in my tank, What else could it be? Spark plugs? I have 13,000 miles, valves havent been cleaned yet.
Sounds like fuel to me. Could be a fuel pump issue, but then again it could be anything in the ignition and/or fuel system.
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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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I ran two tanks of fuel injection cleaner (the good stuff, highly reccomended), and it still happens.

I noticed two things:

It happens after I ride a little while and my bike gets hot.

It also tends to happen more when I hit bumps. (pot holes, speed bumps, just plain bumps)



I also noticed that if I keep my RPM's high (above 7000) it doesnt happen at all. and if it happens at low RPM's, I just have to rev my engine to get it to stop and just keep the RPM high.


Any tips? :/

Last edited by JamesX88; 08-17-2010 at 04:13 PM.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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P.S. Everyone ive talked to said it wasnt the spark plugs
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 04:50 PM
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Does your digital display go erratic when you hit these potholes? Do you ever notice the clock resetting to 12:00, could possibly be a ground issue.

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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesX88 View Post
It also tends to happen more when I hit bumps. (pot holes, speed bumps, just plain bumps)
That sounds like a bad ground somewhere. I'm sure someone has had this problem before. Now we play the waiting game to see if someone will reply that has had it lol.
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post #11 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing goes wrong electronically, No clocks reset and the speedometer and digital display is fine.... But where are the grounds so I could check for good measure?

I'd like to emphasize the my bike has to get hot before this happens part. The bumps, It doesnt happen at every bump, But sometimes, and I think the bump makes me realize it more.
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post #12 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Also, When I rev my RPMS, It goes away. That's also I think a pretty key point, but again I dont know
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post #13 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:50 PM
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It sounds possible that it is an electrical issue. I know these bikes charge the batteries more efficiently at 5500+ rpms. Now I know on cars if the battery becomes disconnected while the motor is running, the alternator keeps everything firing whereas I tried it on my bike, I loosened up the leads on the battery terminals, gave them a wiggle (haha) and it cut off, first it sputtered for a milli-second, then shut down. My question would be how new is your battery, and have you had any rectifier/regulator issues in the past that would cause the battery to not hold a charge?

If it was a fuel issue, I would think the more duty cycle on the injectors under higher revs would cause the issue to reproduce more often, to me a fuel issue would be present at all rpms, not just at certain key points. Check the wiring, also check the fuses on the left-hand side behind the mid-fairing, take a peek under the ram air cover on the left and look at the wiring harnesses to make sure nothing has be de-pinned slightly in either connector, give them a slight tug to make sure they are fully seated in the harnesses.

Keep us posted man...

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post #14 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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The battery is same battery that came with it, I bought the bike used in february 2010 with 7700 miles. It's a 2006. The bike now has 13,000 miles and I've ridden it pretty hard, no crashes though, only a couple tip-overs while stopped (haha)

How would I go about testing my battery to make sure everything is good? Could an auto-zone type place check a motorcycle battery?
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post #15 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesX88 View Post
The battery is same battery that came with it, I bought the bike used in february 2010 with 7700 miles. It's a 2006. The bike now has 13,000 miles and I've ridden it pretty hard, no crashes though, only a couple tip-overs while stopped (haha)

How would I go about testing my battery to make sure everything is good? Could an auto-zone type place check a motorcycle battery?
They would be able to test your battery, if not then I know for a fact that Advance auto would be able to. If you have access to a multimeter, that would be the way to check the charging system while your bike is running. Also check your connections to make sure that they are snug and not loose.

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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Will do all of the above, Thanks and Ill let you know how it turns out
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 07:20 PM
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Sounds good bro, start with the battery test. And then worse-case scenario, you can rent tools from advance and the other parts stores if they don't let you test the system while you are in the parking lot.

EDIT: while you are in the parking lot with their multimeter...


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Last edited by Grab_Ths; 08-17-2010 at 08:05 PM.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2010, 07:59 PM
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Yeah the more I think about it, I'm gonna go with battery. Its possible that that battery doesn't have enough charge to run the system at idle. How does it crank? It crank pretty well?
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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It's kinda funny, I didn't even consider the battery. But a week or two ago I was stuck at a restaurant because my bike wouldn't start. It just turned over and over, fuel pump primed, everything. Eventually I got it to start by pushing it and all was well. And today when I was going home from work, It hard a little bit of a time starting. I really think it's the battery at this point, I didn't think it could make my bike do what it's doing but I think it's a good shot this is the problem, Getting it checked tomorrow. Will post details.
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 05:14 AM
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For starters:

NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE BIKE RUNNING!

It is a very good way to blow something up, including your r/r, ecu and gauges.

The battery soaks up a lot of transient voltages that the r/r doesn't catch.

The bike will not produce enough voltage to charge the battery till around 3.5k RPM, it will not produce enough to run the bike until around 1.8k rpm. Thats why you test the charging system at 5k RPM - its within its operating range.

If your battery is 4 years old then its probably stuffed.

Also check your engine stop relay, swap it with the fan one, it supplies power to the fuel pump (via the fuel cut relay) and the coils, if the contacts are a little burnt that may explain the problem as well, if swapping the engine stop relay doesn't work then try the fuel cut relay.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 05:17 AM
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BTW the big red text wasn't aimed at you James, if anything more at Grab_Ths, I can't stress enough just how important this is.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a new battery, and my old battery was still good. Didn't fix the problem, Low end was 10 and he said he was surprised the battery was still good after 4 years. Bought a new one just to try, and It's still the same thing.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico View Post
For starters:

NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE BIKE RUNNING!

It is a very good way to blow something up, including your r/r, ecu and gauges.

The battery soaks up a lot of transient voltages that the r/r doesn't catch.

The bike will not produce enough voltage to charge the battery till around 3.5k RPM, it will not produce enough to run the bike until around 1.8k rpm. Thats why you test the charging system at 5k RPM - its within its operating range.

If your battery is 4 years old then its probably stuffed.

Also check your engine stop relay, swap it with the fan one, it supplies power to the fuel pump (via the fuel cut relay) and the coils, if the contacts are a little burnt that may explain the problem as well, if swapping the engine stop relay doesn't work then try the fuel cut relay.
Roger that, thanks for the tip Nico

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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-18-2010, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Well I'm bringing it to a mechanic tomorrow who's gonna ride it, Apparently he should be able to figure out by that. So I'll keep everyone posted.
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-19-2010, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
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Roger that, thanks for the tip Nico
No worries mate, I have seen a fair few cages damaged by disconnecting the battery, yet to see a bike damaged but I don't work on that many bikes.

Again I really cant tell you how important it is.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 03:09 AM Thread Starter
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The only thing the mechanic I brought it to could come up with was bypassing the tilt sensor or something because he noticed it would jerk and lose power alot more when in turns.

I'll let you know what he figures out.. I left it to him and hes gonna work on it this upcoming week.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 06:37 AM
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BAS could do it, but they generally work or don't work, could just be wiring to the fuel cut relay.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-27-2015, 07:55 PM
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My bike does the same thing. It happens all the time. So I pull over and shut it off. Let it sit for 5 mins. Start up and good to go. Well just til I get to where I need to go. Any luck on ur bike yet.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-28-2015, 01:21 PM
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Looks like there's a short somewhere in your bike... tough thing to find...

Normal places for shorts are: Alternator, R/R, blinkers... Still could be anywhere.

Last time I had one of these, my mech. needed two weeks to find that the short was in the R/R



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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 01-29-2015, 09:12 PM
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i dont think its a short somewhere on the bike. i have battery power. no clue bro. bikes been in the shop twice now for the same thing. with no luck.

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