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New rear pads, can't slide rotor in

2K views 12 replies 6 participants last post by  Cory Gillmore 
#1 ·
So I'm replacing the rear brake pads on my 08 rr. I bought Galfer Sintered pads front and rear. Front went on without issue. But I can't get the damn rear rotor to slide into these new pads. It's like the pads are too thick. I've got the piston pushed all the way in. There's go to be something I'm doing wrong. Are you supposed to reuse the factory "sleeve" thingy that's on the factory pads. As pictured
 

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#2 ·
Do you have a stock rear rotor?

To be honest I don't think I've changed the rear pads yet, so I don't recall if I have that backing plate or not. Generally speaking, with brakes it's okay to not use the backing shims, I think it's more of a 'noise, vibration, harshness' thing than something to do with effective operation. Search on 're-use brake shims' to find a lot of internet posts about it; it's hard to find anything definitive though.

One thing you could do while the pads are still off, is chamfer the bottom edge of the pad with something like a dremel, so that it creates a channel that the rear rotor can guide into, so it doesn't catch on the bottom edge of the pad so easily.
 
#5 ·
I sit kinda Indian style and put my feet under the tire. Then use one hand on each side to keep the spacers and caliper bracket aligned use my feet to raise it enough to hold everything in. Captive spacers and an extra set of hands would help!


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#6 ·
Man for real. I was about two seconds away at one point to kicking the thing over in a fit of rage. Finally got it back on though. It would've been easier if I'd had a solid object to put under the rear tire to keep it at the right height while I slid the axle through etc, but the best thing I could come up with was a 2x4, three drink coasters and a rag folded twice. Then the caliper assembly kept wanting to come out and then I couldn't get the axle hole in the caliper assembly to line up. Total pain in my ass. All that BS and my rear brakes still don't have any pressure. Gonna replace the rear master next. As long as I never have to remove the rear wheel again I'll do whatever it takes.
 
#7 ·
The rear can be a real pain to bleed. I hung mine overnight and even used a vacuum bleeder, still nothing. I just started riding it anyway and hitting the rear brake every once in a while (like I normally would) and after a couple days it just started working. I had also changed the master cylinder and lines, so I had a lot of air to remove.


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#11 ·
The rear can be a real pain to bleed. I hung mine overnight and even used a vacuum bleeder, still nothing. I just started riding it anyway and hitting the rear brake every once in a while (like I normally would) and after a couple days it just started working. I had also changed the master cylinder and lines, so I had a lot of air to remove.


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This is an interesting post to me. Or maybe it's just wishful thinking that I could also be so lucky. But dammit I REFUSE to believe it could still be a bleeding issue. I actually have an ongoing thread on this rear brake issue of mine. But I've actually got some different and good advice on it in this thread as well.

Interesting thing of note. Today when replacing the rear pads, I couldn't depress the piston all the way down until I took the cap off the res and removed some fluid (to keep it from overflowing). Meaning I obviously had too much fluid in the res? The PSR res is pretty small I think compared to the OEM box res, so it's kinda hard to gauge how much fluid to put in it. The PSR res sure does look slick but it's really turned out to be a bit more trouble than it's worth. I don't even know anymore.

I have a replacement rear master but I'm thinking the chances of a bad master are pretty slim. I mean there is a chance I got some metal shavings in it from when I ground the tab off to fit the res. But I'm not sure that would destroy the master.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the bleed tip Tary.

A somewhat involved but sure shot way of getting the rear in place: throw a towel over the tail section, then thread a ratcheting strap through the wheel and over the tail. With the spacers in, slowly ratchet the wheel up into place, making sure everything stays lined up. If you get it just right, the axle can slide through with little resistance. It takes longer but it can be nice if you don't have an extra set of hands.
 
#10 ·
have done strap method....if you've a friend nearby, they can lift from top and get wheel up into correct position.

I have a ramp that raises rear tire as you roll it into swingarm

you can make same from a 2x4'" .....cut it in a 2X30" triangle.

roll rear tire up ramp, mount chain and spacers, get rotor between pads and slide tire/ramp forward for lineup.
 
#12 ·
Having to remove some fluid to collapse the piston is very normal and not the cause of your problem...

The fluid just has no place to go and cannot collapse any more so the cap holds the pressure inside.. Once you relieve the pressure "Letting fluid out" You just created more space allowing the piston to move in...
 
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