about a 1000 miles after getting my valves adjusted i was driving down the interstate and as i was exiting and went to idle it was making a very loud sou and wouldn't idle. It sounded like an exhaust gasket was blown and tired with not idling, it made sense (no back pressure).
upon closer inspection, the gasket seems perfectly intact. The bike will run with a little throttle but it sounds like either gravel in the cylinders or a blown exhaust gasket. That's the best way I can think to describe it. Anyways this sound goes away after 5,500RPM and the bike has perfectly normal throttle response the whole time. I will post a video as soon as I get a new battery.
I am good with fixing cars but I've never work on motorcycles, so any help/advice yall can provide me would be great! I'm to the point where I am ready to just sell this bike "as is" on craigslist.
Did you adjust the valves yourself or take it to a shop? Post up that vid when you get a chance, it will make it easier to give you idea of what's going on.
I had a shop do it, but they later admitted to not working on honda's much and having to call around for advice. Appearantly they were not straight forward to adjust. I'll try to have that video up this weekend
it may be hard to hear the sound in this video. I think I can pick it out easily because I know what it sounds like. Let me know if thats the case and I will try the video from another angle.
At work atm. Dont turn it on again till you have your timing and valves recheck. Sry if you have to tow it there or trailer it.. dont go back to that shop.
It's hard to hear with that throttle blip in there, but it almost sounded as though the cct is loose. Either that or one of the cam chain guides is rattling. Can you get a vid/sound clip on the right side (throttle side) closer to the mid fairing. No throttle, just straight idle.
Don't run that motor or especially ride the bike until that's fixed. The shop that worked on it should repair it or pay a competent shop to fix it correctly for you. That sounds like your cam tensioner is failed at least and it could already be mis-timed by a tooth or two. If you're in this deep I would get an APE tensioner and install it properly.
That makes sense, at least from my limited understanding of how bike engines work. Unfortunately, i doubt that shop will help me now. I started working up for a deployment when this happened and 2 months later I deployed for 8 months. Ive been back from that deployment for a year now and the bike has been sitting until I cranked it for the first time in that video
Looks like it might've backed out on its own and I can finger tighten it from here. Should I just run this bolt down to that nut and then crank the bike?
Screw it in until you feel tension, then back it off a little. Start the bike and then screw it back in just until you hear the rattle stop, then back it off 1/4 turn.
I usually use blue loctite on the thread where the nut goes down. You could use the purple anti-vibration one too.
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