Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

07 600rr Dies Every 5 Seconds

1K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  wags81 
#1 ·
Hello all,

Last night I went for a ride. I got 1 mile away from my house and the bike died while I was going 40 mph. I get trouble code 14 which is an open circuit I do believe. I couldn't get it to start so a buddy picked it up and took it back to my house. When I got back to the house it starts up for 5 seconds then dies. I can do this over and over. When it dies, it seems like I hit the kill switch, so I do believe it is and electrical problem. Possibly a BAS problem?

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
#4 ·
Also, a little back story... I just got done putting my bike back together (I got my sub-frame powder coated and put in my new TST tail light) so the sub-frame, tail, tank, and side fairings were off the bike. I'm going to take my right side fairings of tonight to make sure those wiring harness connections are solid.
 
#5 ·
At least from the description, yeah, it shouldn't start. But the code still points to a specific primary injector. I'd grab a manual and take a look at the wiring schematic and just follow it up from the injector upstream to see what components feed the power and signal to the injector. Maybe you will find that some connector is loose or otherwise questionable. Electrical issues are always a b!tch...

It's not impossible for the bike to restart and still throw the injector code if the issue is intermittent. For example, a loose connection may vibrate enough that it opens and kills the bike but seats just enough for a restart.

I had an intermittent power loss issue a while ago that I chased for weeks on end and realized that the battery ground was just loose enough that if I hit a right bump it'd die but restart just dandy.
 
#9 ·
In simple terms a relay is just a box with two independent circuits - one for control and other for the load. The control circuit operates a switch that turns on or off the load circuit.

With the relay out, you can apply voltage to the control circuit pins and check for continuity on the load circuit with a multimeter. The pin layout is different depending on the relay itself but they all follow one of several standards so looking it up is easy.

The relays also make a pretty distinctive clicking noise when they switch too so that can also be a way to roughly judge its operation. You probably heard a version of it at some point trying to start an engine with a dead battery.
 
#11 ·
This is good advice. However, if the problem is intermittent (i.e., the relay is going but not quite gone) then this test might not reveal it right away. You could try swapping out the relay with a known good relay from another non-critical system and ride around with it for a few days. Of course, you would first need to narrow the possibilities down to one or two relays.
 
#12 ·
Well....it was the kill switch. I took that off cleaned/lightly sanded the contact point and now it runs like a champ. When I was looking around some said the bike could go in to "limp" mode with a faulty kill switch. So I assume that's why the bike would start, then die a few seconds later.....I'm not for sure why I was getting a trouble code 14 that pointed to the injectors though.

Thank you for the help fellas!
 
#13 ·
Electromechanical relays are some seriously robust bastards. And when they do fail, they get stuck in either switched or normal state. It's pretty rare for it to periodically misbehave by itself, as it's usually a signal issue. I won't say this can't be the case but it is rare assuming it's not been through some serious abuse.

So yeah, it is tough testing for a relay that's intermittently temperamental. Since they're cheap it's worth it to just go ahead and swap them if you suspect a specific one has an issue.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Heh, I had one come across my desk that played limbo a few years back. Under just the right conditions, the paddle would hover between the switched outputs leaving both open. Granted it was in use for a better part of 3 decades though so who knows exactly how many switching cycles that thing went through.

Edit:

Well....it was the kill switch. I took that off cleaned/lightly sanded the contact point and now it runs like a champ. When I was looking around some said the bike could go in to "limp" mode with a faulty kill switch. So I assume that's why the bike would start, then die a few seconds later.....I'm not for sure why I was getting a trouble code 14 that pointed to the injectors though.

Thank you for the help fellas!
Good you got it sorted, now go enjoy the spring!
 
#18 ·
Well guys and gals, it happened again. I was going on a ride and my bike shut off. Its giving me a FI code 14 again... Last time this happened I cleaned the contact points on the kill switch and it fixed my problems. This time I hard wired it by disconnecting the solder points and splicing them right before they go in to the switch. This should be and O.K. why of doing this right?

Any ways hard wiring the switch didn't fix the problem this time. The fuel pump does prime, everything electronic comes on when I turn the key. Any ideas?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top