Got a problem with my bike. Just installed 2013 wheels and while everyone and their mother said it was a direct swap, I now have too much rubbing from my calipers causing my wheel to not be able to spin freely. I tried to spin it and once I take my hand off it it stops. Also, the axle bolt isn't flush with the forks anymore. I believe that these wheels are a direct bolt on, the question I have is what the hell did I do wrong? Lol if anyone can give me some insight or something to try please help.
There is a chance that you have installed the wheel backwards; it is possible, and it will cause the rotor spacing to be incorrect. I do not know for the 2013+ wheels, but there should be an arrow molded into the wheel somewhere indicating rotational direction.
Wheel is on right, I just double checked and the arrow is pointing the direction the wheels spins. But I did find something. Does it matter what way the rotors go on, because I saw that they both have arrow pointing also and they are opposite of my wheel arrow.
Photo? Possible wheel isn't aligned or spacers are incorrect.
I don't know if they are a direct fit but, if you give us a photo maybe we can figure it out together
He said axle bolt isn't sitting flush with the forks, at first i thought it was the rotors as well.
I still think alignment, its possible the wheel is sitting offset to one side.
Take a photo and some measurements of left side and right side, you'll figure it out
I stand corrected, the fiche has two separate part numbers. I don't think the offsets and dimensions are different between them... and I think I put them on either way a couple times. Still, doesn't hurt to put them on in the correct orientation. It could be that, the rotor faces have a dimensional build up of pad material, if you flipped them this buildup would then be backwards (and from the wrong set of pads), and that could be creating the extra drag.
I would try flipping the rotors. Do you remember which side they were on for sure? Usually the rotors and pads wear to one another which could cause issues if they are mixed up.
No I don't remember what side came off what but I did notice that the rotors have arrows on them like the wheel, so I'm assuming that's the direction they have to spin?
What I mean by "seating the axle" is holding the front brake and compressing the forks multiple times before tightening the pinch bolts. This aligns the front axel/wheel
I swapped my 08 1000rr rear wheel to sp2 wheel and had this same problem which the more I thighten the axle nut the more rear wheel locked up. As it turned out it I had used the wrong spacer. I noticed one of'em is shorter, and when I used the shorter spacer, the rear axle came out more from the side just like the pic above. You might wanna checked on your spacers. Mind taking a shot of the spacers you have?
My rear wheel locked up when I had the (wrong) narrower/shorter spacer on (left side)
Ps: dont let the dealership change anything on your front wheel.
Something's not right; mine sits just inside the fork face. Are you using a mallet or something to pound it through? I use a little rubber hammer while pulling up on the wheel a bit to let the axle slide through. You are torquing the axle bolt to 44lb-ft yes?
To me, leaving the one side's pinch bolts undone and pushing the front could 'unload' a stuck/bound axle for a better, more true seating - but this is extremely rare and would probably only happen if you installed the axle harshly or with the front end under pre-tension. So it's more of a 'just to be sure' kind of thing, that doesn't actually need to be done because the case in which it would be beneficial is so very rare.
Spacers are in there perfectly and I did try to pound it in with a mallet but that's all the further it will go in. Everything's torqued down to specs so I don't feel too unsafe but it still slightly concerns me. At least I fixed the rubbing problem lol.
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