so now the part that means the most and will affect the paint from this point on .What you do here will make or break the job.
if you are looking for a show quality paint the steps ive already given need to be repeated and scrutinized ,but for this one its more of a regular run of the mill rebuild paint .The more effort you put the better it will be ,but the more expensive and time consuming it gets as well.
so first you need to wetsand the primer ,get a 600 grit wet paper,a bucket of warm water or spray bottle ,and a hose to wash off the residue,this gets very messy so prepare to be coverd in grey goo.
again with the rubber block keeping it flat and mild pressure
close up of the guide coat ,you want every single dot gone .The dots will show you the high and low spots as well as where you have and havent sanded.
they will disapear slowly and you want to try and only get the dots gone and not sand through the primer.
use the rubber block and contour it to get the edges ,go easy or you will go through very quickly ,paint is the thinest on the edges .
you can also use your hand ,its almost as good if you know what your doing ,plus it gives you a feel for flatness and ruff spots
make sure to wash off all of this residue ,what you dont wash off will stick to it and turn up in the base coat if you dont get rid of it.
here is what it looks like if you burn through .
At this point you can throw a bit of compatible spray bomb primer on the spot and ligthly scuff ,or if your doing a perfect job you would reprime that spot properly .(spray bomb is fine in either case,depends what kind it is) If its down to the plastic its better to reprime ,if its just through the primer onto the old top coat its fine you can leave it .YOu also dont HAVE to primer it at all ,if you knwo what your doing ,but it takes more base and wastes material .better to fix with primer thats cheaper than base that costs a lot.