Yoshimura RS-5 Rebuild...Dont do it. - 600RR.net
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2016, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Yoshimura RS-5 Rebuild...Dont do it.

I watched some rebuild videos on the RS-5 exhuast and how to rebuild them. I purchased a kit and was going to take the end cap off as shown in the video, but could not get the end cap off and ended up with the rivets buzzing around inside the exhaust after drilling them out. Covered in fiberglass trying to stuff a pillowcase of fiberglass inside a muffler all beat up on the ends because they were siliconed together. Do yourself a favor and have Yoshimura re-build your muffler its not worth the trouble and you will end up with a piece of junk.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-26-2016, 07:07 AM
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Not trying to belittle you but that's not supposed to be a hard thing to do. I've shorten a yoshi R77 and that thing was a real PITA, so in exchange I made an exhaust slider for it hehe. Wait till you work with some of jardines can... On some they'll use cement paste material, now, good luck with that.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 01:26 AM Thread Starter
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I got her all back together and I will say the RS-5 sounds so much better. It sure looked easy on the videos, but ended up being more effort than I expected.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 03:38 AM
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Also not to belittle you but I've done my Yoshi on another bike until I got it squared away. I can do it now form start to finish in 30 seconds (whoops minutes!).

On my first attempt I used ceramic fiber. It was excellent. It also did not last. Ultimately it blew out the tailpipe leaving me with an open (and very light) muffler!

My second attempt was much smarter. Stainless steel wool packed in very tight around the core with a thin layer of ceramic fiber on the outter portions. This resulted in long lasting baffling and a cool to the touch muffler. I knew I would get it sooner or later.

I steered away from the pillows. I was trying to approximate OE Honda lifespan on the last attempt.

New to me 2006 CBR 600 RR w/40,000 Kilometers

-Valve Clearances Done/Adjusted to the Loose Side
-New Starter Brushes
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-New OE Front Pads & Caliper Overhaul
-New Air Filter
-HealTech SpeedoHealer V4
-New Chain & Sprockets (15/45 & 14/45)
-Rear Pads & Calipers
-Front Forks & Seals

To Do;
Corbin Seat!!!

Last edited by Arjay67; 10-30-2016 at 10:10 PM.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjay67 View Post
Also not to belittle you but I've done my Yoshi on another bike until I got it squared away. I can do it now form start to finish in 30 seconds.

On my first attempt I used ceramic fiber. It was excellent. It also did not last. Ultimately it blew out the tailpipe leaving me with an open (and very light) muffler!

My second attempt was much smarter. Stainless steel wool packed in very tight around the core with a thin layer of ceramic fiber on the outter portions. This resulted in long lasting baffling and a cool to the touch muffler. I knew I would get it sooner or later.

I steered away from the pillows. I was trying to approximate OE Honda lifespan on the last attempt.
Wow! 30 seconds. Takes me that long to drill one rivet out. I like the idea of the stainless steel wool and ceramic fiber.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 03:03 PM
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Wow! 30 seconds. Takes me that long to drill one rivet out. I like the idea of the stainless steel wool and ceramic fiber.
I meant 30 minutes Any other packing I tried would eventually blow out (less then a month). Mind you, I also have launch control on that bike so the muffler takes a bit of a beating, especially at night

I think if tear into OE mufflers from a 1983 Honda, that still sounds sweet, what you'll find is stainless steel wool.....

New to me 2006 CBR 600 RR w/40,000 Kilometers

-Valve Clearances Done/Adjusted to the Loose Side
-New Starter Brushes
-New Thermostat
-Flush Antifreeze
-New OE Front Pads & Caliper Overhaul
-New Air Filter
-HealTech SpeedoHealer V4
-New Chain & Sprockets (15/45 & 14/45)
-Rear Pads & Calipers
-Front Forks & Seals

To Do;
Corbin Seat!!!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjay67 View Post
I think if tear into OE mufflers from a 1983 Honda, that still sounds sweet, what you'll find is stainless steel wool.....
What you'll find is metal baffling and no packing which is why they are so damn heavy.

Scorpion pipes, however, have steel wool and are guaranteed to never need repacking.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 10:32 PM
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What you'll find is metal baffling and no packing which is why they are so damn heavy.

Scorpion pipes, however, have steel wool and are guaranteed to never need repacking.
Actually, I've been in there and it's full of stainless steel wool straight from the factory. This is one reason why the OE exhaust lasts so long.

So you're quite incorrect on that score.

That particular bike was bought new by my neighbour in 1983.

New to me 2006 CBR 600 RR w/40,000 Kilometers

-Valve Clearances Done/Adjusted to the Loose Side
-New Starter Brushes
-New Thermostat
-Flush Antifreeze
-New OE Front Pads & Caliper Overhaul
-New Air Filter
-HealTech SpeedoHealer V4
-New Chain & Sprockets (15/45 & 14/45)
-Rear Pads & Calipers
-Front Forks & Seals

To Do;
Corbin Seat!!!
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-29-2016, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Arjay67 View Post
Actually, I've been in there and it's full of stainless steel wool straight from the factory. This is one reason why the OE exhaust lasts so long.

So you're quite incorrect on that score.

That particular bike was bought new by my neighbour in 1983.
You'd be surprised how many don't then. Take apart your stock pipe on your RR, it's just baffling and metal plates as are the vast majority of OEM pipes. Steel wool is hard to deal with at the factory and will degrade with time, baffling doesn't.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 12:05 AM
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You'd be surprised how many don't then. Take apart your stock pipe on your RR, it's just baffling and metal plates as are the vast majority of OEM pipes. Steel wool is hard to deal with at the factory and will degrade with time, baffling doesn't.
Actually, my other Honda also has stainless steel wool in the OE muffler. If stainless steel wool degrades over time I wonder why so many vintage,decades old Honda's with silky smooth OE exhaust still have the original wool from the factory in them?

All I can say is that I have a great deal of experience re-packing my Yoshi with all sorts of crap from the market place. In the end, the only thing that would not blow out or degrade was stainless steel wool...

I was put on to it from riders with decades of riding under their belt. They were all very familiar with the story and kindly turned me onto it. I was back then that I started looking at vintage bikes with OE pipes on them that had never been touched and still sounded great. What was in each and every one of them right from the factory? Stainless steel wool.

The real crucible is once you put 10 or 20,000 k on it. At that point the men get separated from the boys and all the aftermarket packing has long since blown out. They all sound good once re-packed but it's mileage and age that will reveal which packing really works.

If you think about it, the OP was asking about re-packing his Yoshi. If it were done correctly, it would never need re-packing. My Yoshi was exactly the same. It was cured with stainless steel wool. Ceramic fiber did not cut it. Aftermarket 'pillows' didn't cut it. They all blew out over time. I found that the only thing that won't degrade over time or blow out is well-packed stainless steel wool.

New to me 2006 CBR 600 RR w/40,000 Kilometers

-Valve Clearances Done/Adjusted to the Loose Side
-New Starter Brushes
-New Thermostat
-Flush Antifreeze
-New OE Front Pads & Caliper Overhaul
-New Air Filter
-HealTech SpeedoHealer V4
-New Chain & Sprockets (15/45 & 14/45)
-Rear Pads & Calipers
-Front Forks & Seals

To Do;
Corbin Seat!!!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-30-2016, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arjay67 View Post
Actually, my other Honda also has stainless steel wool in the OE muffler. If stainless steel wool degrades over time I wonder why so many vintage,decades old Honda's with silky smooth OE exhaust still have the original wool from the factory in them?

All I can say is that I have a great deal of experience re-packing my Yoshi with all sorts of crap from the market place. In the end, the only thing that would not blow out or degrade was stainless steel wool...

I was put on to it from riders with decades of riding under their belt. They were all very familiar with the story and kindly turned me onto it. I was back then that I started looking at vintage bikes with OE pipes on them that had never been touched and still sounded great. What was in each and every one of them right from the factory? Stainless steel wool.

The real crucible is once you put 10 or 20,000 k on it. At that point the men get separated from the boys and all the aftermarket packing has long since blown out. They all sound good once re-packed but it's mileage and age that will reveal which packing really works.

If you think about it, the OP was asking about re-packing his Yoshi. If it were done correctly, it would never need re-packing. My Yoshi was exactly the same. It was cured with stainless steel wool. Ceramic fiber did not cut it. Aftermarket 'pillows' didn't cut it. They all blew out over time. I found that the only thing that won't degrade over time or blow out is well-packed stainless steel wool.
Steel wool will still degrade, just not nearly as fast as fiberglass and it degrades over miles not time as well like fiberglass packing does, hence the fact years later they still "work" though they are slightly "louder" and "deeper" than they were originally. Unfortunately the vast majority of aftermarket pipe manufactures use fiberglass which leaves you having to repack at some point in its life (unless like I mentioned earlier you have a Scorpion which use steel wool). At that time you can do the steel wool packing and be fine with it.

I'm surprised you had so much trouble with fiberglass packing. Did you use specific muffler packing or simply use insulation? Did you pack it extremely tight, us tape to bind it? I've probably repacked over 2 dozen pipes over the years and used either the manufactures kit or a generic kit with no blowout or anything unusual for wear outside the manufactures recommended interval for repacking (depending on the company and sleeve style between 5,000-10,000 usually). The FMF Q on my Yamaha WR450 is very hard on packing and will burn though it, but not blow it out the tail pipe, in a couple hundred hard miles in it but that's a big single used EXTREMELY hard off road, even race pipes will generally go a season without issue. Your experience sounds like people I've met who have loosely packed the pipe or used home insulation to repack.

YMMV, however.

The biggest issue I always have as the OP mentioned is getting it all apart the first time as good ones are sealed from the factory, after that it's much easier. My second was re-riveting the sleeve together: I had a beautiful polished aluminum sleeved TBR pipe on my old 90 VFR I repacked back in the day that every time I put it a rivet in it by hand it would "bounce" as the rivet popped and left 3 or 4 gouges on the sleeve at every rivet point. I bought an air rivet gun after that experience, much easier and no "bouncing".

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-11-2017, 11:27 AM
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I just took mine apart the other day. You have to make sure you punch out the rivet cores after you drill off the tops. I was struggling like a monkey until I realized that. Slipped off with almost no effort afterward.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-17-2017, 10:09 AM
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Where do you guys pick up the stainless steel wool to repack the exhaust ?
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