Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

Dyno Jet Quick shifter

4K views 19 replies 15 participants last post by  hxccalinip 
#1 ·
Just had a question how to use one of these...

Previous owner installed it on the bike.

All I know is that you don't need to use clutch to shift up.

So I do my thing, first gear -> 14,000 rpm, and then just kick up.

But the bike jerks...

Am I suppose to roll OFF the throttle then kick up then open throttle again? (for every gear?)

Or am I not shifting at the right RPM?

SHould it be smooth when shifting up with the quick shifter? (thats what I thought...)
 
#5 ·
Quick shifters are not meant for shifting from 1st to 2nd. Only use it after 2nd.


Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App

^^^ this

Just the same as when you clutchless upshift without a quick shifter you're not supposed to do it from 1st to 2nd, doesn't work with slamming through neutral.
 
#8 ·
In case someone has a hard time believing my previous post here is a pic from a 2005. Notice the 6 star points (one with notch) and 6 valleys. The star point with the notch is neutral. Other than the notch for neutral the shift star is symetrical and degrees of rotation for shifting between gears is the same.
 

Attachments

#9 ·
Same size or not that clunk is not good.. Any metals or parts/joints hitting that hard will wear faster than not.. Rather play it safe than sorry.. Its just one gear...


And if your so set on not having to clutch it from 1 to 2... get one of these and be done.

 
#13 ·
If you want to use the quick shifter from 1st to 2nd and reduce the clunk my suggestion is to wire the PC into the speed sensor and calibrate gear position. This will allow you to set individual kill times per ger (ie longer kills for the lower gears). Once you have it all setup properly the shifts will be silky smooth through the whole box, although there will always be a bit of a jolt from 1st to 2nd under hard accleration simply because of the high torque forces at work. This is assuming you have a PC V I'm not sure if its possible on a PC III.

From memory my race bike has a kill time of 75ms for 1st to 2nd & I can flat shift it out of the 1st gear hairpin at about 11k no problem. No point redlining it in 1st then it does get a bit rough on the shift. If its a street bike and you mainly shift at lower RPMs then you may need an even longer kill time.
 
#14 ·
you SHOULD just be able to barely click up on the shifter and it cuts fuel and slides right into gear with almost no effort... that's IF it was installed properly...

if that is not the case connect your PC5 to a computer and in the menu there are settings... it may not be enabled or you may have the switch type (NO/NC set inverted)... the 600RR SHOULD be a Normally Open (NO) switch... also there is a setting I forgot what its called for it to have different settings for each gear or one setting for all gears... you have to have speed sensor wires connected to your PC5 for the independent settings for each gear option to work... so if you are unsure if thats connected then just change that setting to one setting for all gears and it will work regardless...

If none of the above is true they may have only installed a shift sensor without the "quickshifter expansion module" which allows the PC5 to temporarily cut all the injectors off so you can shift...

Heres what the QEM module is:
http://www.powercommander.com/power...commander_quick_shifter_expansion_module.aspx

And as far as the speed sensor if you look on your PC5.. there are a series of holes... two of those holes should be filled with wires from the SFM module (the 3rd and 4th over from the left if you have the label facing up and are looking from the back) and the 3rd one over from the right is the hole that a speed sensor wire would be connected to (again its optional but it is required to have the independent settings for each gear setting enabled)...

Also you MUST have the latest firmware (not maps but the actual PC5 software) and QEM software for it to work right.. they are both available on the powercommander site and can be updated while you are plugging the PC5 into your computer to check the settings...

The only other thing you can double check... on the sensor mounted on your shift rod... there are 2 types of sensors... push or pull... its marked in small print on the label... I believe the 600RR stock uses a push type sensor (you can verify this by seeing which way the rod moves during an UPSHIFT... if the rod is being pushed you need a push type sensor... if its being pulled a pull type (I'm pretty sure the 600RR uses a push type unless you have some type of rearset or something that changed the direction the rod travels (but again you can easily check by doing what I just said)...

Anything else feel free to post back or message me...
 
#16 ·
it will cut it regardless of gear... I have no idea about the long term effects on the shift star or any of the shift/clutch mechanism but it will allow you to shift between 1st and 2nd as well as 2nd-5th equally... that may be a good use for the gear specific settings and setting the 1st to 2nd shift with a longer kill time but it hasn't been an issue
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top