I had a 190 on my last rear and I liked it. Just seemed more responsive and easier to dive into corners for me. I would have gotten another 190 but I had a nail in my tire right before a big ride so I had to get a tire fast.
The stock 180 is better for the street if that's what ur doin. Rode my buddies gsxr600 (yes he's on the bandwagon) which had a 190 on it and it seemed to me to be more difficult to really get it to do what u want in the "twistys". The 180 seems like u can flick the bike around more. Idk. Just my opinion.
Good call!!!! I have tried both 180 and 190... 180 way better IMO. If im not mistaken the 180 has a higher center that allows better response. Seemed that way for me anyway.. good luck
Could be wrong but that's what I read on 1000rr.net when I was going to get a tire. I went with a 55 instead of 50 cuz the sidewall is higher which gives the tire the want to lean faster
Used 190/69 Michelin slicks for a 24 hour endurance race this past weekend. Fit the 600 perfect and made it tip over like nothing you have ever seen!
The higher the profile the easier it is to lean in.
You sure it doesn't have anything to do with the fact that the taller tire changed your suspension geometry, taking away some of your rake angle, making the bike easier to steer?
Please tell me how the back tire makes the bike easier to turn in. Except for what I just mentioned?
The swap from a 180 to a 190 requires geometry changes afterwards. It will not help handing at all without changes and turn in speed as well as transitioning while countersteering is reduced if left untouched regardless of the reduced wheelbase. The rear shock generally ends up needing more compression, the forks can be lowered one to three millimeters and the front fork compression adjustment can be softened. A 190 is NOT going to have the same multi arc profile in a 5.5" rim, it's flexing the carcass to compensate its narrower width, and the added benefit is the vertical wall with increased contact patch, that's it. Your bike is not going to start turning in faster as the mid center carcass flex is not altered. Tuning the suspension should bring you to at least a position where it is equal to how your previous settings were using a 180, then and only after will you benefit in some way.
I've never ridden w a 190, dont think i ever will though. Ill stick w the tire size the manufacture recs, i remember Parker (Vtec) using a 190 at the track and prefering the oem 180
I've got 190 now and I have "chicken strips" my180 I was eating up the edges and I was getting worried that if the edges were that ate up, I looked at the amount ofcontact the tire had at that point and it wasn't much,so I went to 190 just to feel better on edge being there's more of a edge. Turn in and flicking didn't really notice much difference. I did it to trick myself :drunk:
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On my race bike I run a 190/60. Stock is a 180/55 just like the CBR. But that bike is set up to run the bigger tire. On my CBR it gets the 180/55 Q2
On another note, you have to see what the tire is designed for. I run Dunlop GPAs currently. They do not make them in a 180, but the 190 GPA is designed for the smaller rim, unlike a Q2 190 which is designed for the bigger rim. The 200/55 Dunlop race tire is desinged for the bigger rim as well.
If the tire you are looking at is available in a 180, then more than likely that is the tire you want to run on your bike unless you are willing to make the changes to the geometry to run the bigger tire.
There is more to tire sizing than the numbers on the sidewall. You have to look at the profile of the tire as well. More than likely if you put a 190 on a 5.5 rim it will not handle the way it is designed to.
If you read tire information about the tire you are buying it will give you a range of rim sizes that the tire "will fit" but there is also a measurement called "measured rim size" (or similar), that is the size rim the tire is designed for. That is the number you want to match to your rim size. Running bigger tires will only score you some points at the local bike night parking lot, if that is what you are looking for and don't care how the bigger tire will hurt your handling, then go for it. If you want your bike to handle its best, go with the tire that is designed for your rim size/ what the bike is set up for (geometry wise).If you feel that you "need" the bigger tire, get the suspension geometry properly adjusted for the bigger tire.
i ran 190's on my 600 because i was getting them cheap! but like 1/4Mi said. the 190GPA is designed for the 5.5 so its a great tire to use if you want to.
i also ran some 180's on my 929(stock is a 190) because i had some take offs to get rid of. im of the opinion that chicket strips are whats for dinner unless your at the track.
I love these debates and people talking about how the bike turned faster or slower with this tire or that tire, on the STREET! LMAO
C'mon... unless you're SERIOUSLY riding the bike to the point where you've recorded you geometry, tire pressures, etc... so that you could compare the changes.
Changing rear tires even in the same size but in different model tires will alter the handling of the machine. You're talking about ride height changes, carcass changes, compound changes, etc... all of which affect the handling of the machine.
The US slick for example comes in a 200/55 and is 657mm in diameter. And works both on the 6" rim AND 5.5" rim, per Dunlops specifications.
Lets give an example as to why you need to know this info before trying to compare 2 different tires.
The Dunlop tire we use for Daytona is a 195/65 and is 656mm while Dunlop also make a 190/60 that is 657mm, which is taller than the tire with a higher size listing.
Dunlop has a BTQ02 that is a 190/55 that is 649mm and a 330235 in a 190/55 that is 647mm. Both the same size listing.
If you want to make a comparison between tires, make sure it's a real comparison.
Ride height, pressure and carcass are going to have a greater affect on the turn in than the width of the tire. And if you changed the front too, well... forget it! lol
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