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Old 11-06-2012, 04:42 AM   #1
Rad Rage
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First Witnessed Oil Change

Oil change at 8500KM, done at Honda. They only have one type of Honda oil they use which is replaced every 5000KM:


Oil @ 8500KM by SurgeRR, on Flickr

Now I was going in wanting 10w-40 after all the threads I read on here, I was disappointed to see they only used 5w-30. 10W-40 is quite rare here as very little people use it, I found one brand and its cost was 50% more than the Honda 5W-30. Cost wasnt an issue, I wanted the best. I did some further digging after the change. I found out that cold starts are the main reason of engine wear and having a lower viscosity oil would be better for the engine especially in cold times. Seeing the desert climate here means temperatures range from 22F/9C in the winter to 120F/50C in the summer. I could use 5W-30 in the winter which we are about to embrace and 10W-40 in the summer. What do you guys think?

Dude at work:

First Oil Change by SurgeRR, on Flickr
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:42 AM   #2
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So after doing a google search, to support my initial thought, that oil is designed for all Honda engines, but motorcycle? I'm not sure I'd be using a vtec oil in my bike. Was this a bike dealership?


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Old 11-06-2012, 10:44 AM   #3
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yeah check this......auto oil in our bikes is a no no.....

friction modifiers in auto oil incompatible with wet clutch
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Old 11-07-2012, 01:01 AM   #4
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This was the Honda Agency Bike Service Shop, you can't get more legit than this. Now what the effing hell??!! Are you sure this oil contains friction modifiers??
What do you recommend I do if it does?
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:42 AM   #5
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not trying to give you a hard time,

here in USA the (honda)oil is GN4U. The bottle in pic looks completely different

From the Honda Bike service center, i am sure you where taken care of properly
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Old 11-07-2012, 10:54 AM   #6
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Name:	ImageUploadedByMO Free1352303591.147797.jpg
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ID:	30690

This is the one I use. Just change your own oil. Very easy. I did mine yesterday =)


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Old 11-07-2012, 12:21 PM   #7
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that oil is most likely no good for your bike, car engine oil is for cars and is not formulated for wet clutches. check the bottle to see if it has the "JASO-MA" SPEC for wet clutches, it probably does not and if so drain it and get the proper oil.

this is why i do my own maintainance because you never know what kind of idiot at the dealer is working on your baby! **** i just had mine at the dealer to get the waterpump replaced "under warranty" and the frikin retard there even managed to screw that up! left a bolt loose and lost a part for my fairing, good thing i checked over my bike when i got home.
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:44 PM   #8
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Rotella t6! Great buy.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:22 AM   #9
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There is no JASO rating on the bottle, which is weird! I mean this is the oil they use on all their bikes, including the Firebalde......
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:14 AM   #10
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Hmm I think the dealership need to get some schooling.

The oil that they gave is one for cars. Specifically the LEV (Low Emission Vehicle) Honda engine.
I wouldn't even use it for my high performance Honda (Type Rs, Old H22A Prelude, S2000, NSX, etc)

Motorcycle oil has friction modifier which keeps it more stable when getting crushed by the gears.

In Cars the gearbox is completely separate to the engine therefore the oil doesn't get crushed by the gears.

In Motorcycle the engine oil is also used to lubricate the gearbox and clutch. When using car's oil the oil will get disintegrate as they are not supposed to handle the gear crushing on them and lose its lubricating properties.

You should really get it drained and get specific motorcycle oil. plenty of suggestion above.

Just because they are dealership doesn't mean they know best. Especially if they are mixed car and bike dealership.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil
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Old 11-08-2012, 04:38 AM   #11
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Looks like the oil they used is fucked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rinonz View Post
Motorcycle oil has friction modifier which keeps it more stable when getting crushed by the gears.
The forum is filled with threads stating that the oil used should NOT contain friction modifiers, you are recommending the opposite?
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Old 11-08-2012, 10:50 AM   #12
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Quote:
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There is no JASO rating on the bottle, which is weird! I mean this is the oil they use on all their bikes, including the Firebalde......
As i expected, i would change it right away. just go get the proper oil and do it yourself, i wouldn't even take it back to the dealer clearly they are idiots.
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Old 11-08-2012, 11:09 AM   #13
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Quote:
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Looks like the oil they used is fucked.



The forum is filled with threads stating that the oil used should NOT contain friction modifiers, you are recommending the opposite?
you do not want an oil with friction modifiers,it will cause clutch slippage and premature clutch failure.Our bikes use a wet clutch and the engine and tranny share the same sump so car/truck engine oil is a big no no.there is lots of different motorcycle oils, honda gn4,motul 4t,mobil1 mx4t,castrol rs 4t,amsoil mcf are all suitable oils there has to be something you can get just make sure it is JASO-MA.You can use 10w30 or 10w40 or even 5w30,where i live i just use 10w40.
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Old 11-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #14
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We shouldn't get too hung up on the specifics.

There are 2 types of Friction modifier
1. to reduce friction: this is bad as it may cause clutch slippage although not proven
2. to give it more resistance against the gear pressure: this is what is normally added to motorcycle oil.

I'd say OP should stick with the well known motorcycle oil
Honda GN4, Motul semi syntethic 5100, 6100, 7000 etc, Rotella whatever (I've never used them).

Just don't mix mineral, semi synthetic and full synthetic.

Also my motto is always more frequent changes is better than good oil for longer period of time.

I used Motul 5100 because it's readily available; I can rock into any motorcycle shop and get one without having to order.
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Old 11-08-2012, 02:54 PM   #15
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Rotella t6! Great buy.
I need to stock up before prices for these go up. Motul Esther 5100 also a great choice. Used to be $30/gal but not anymore.

Vtec logo is a dead give away that it's not for bike unless my bike has Vtec that I didn't know of.
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Old 11-09-2012, 09:25 AM   #16
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Should the new oil filter also be replaced? I have only ridden 150KM.
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Old 11-13-2012, 02:31 AM   #17
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Old 11-13-2012, 01:29 PM   #18
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I would.......
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:27 AM   #19
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Change both and you'll be good bro... And can u use miles instead of KM.. Haha
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:30 PM   #20
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Change filter every time with the oil. I use a Honda filter from the dealer and Mobil one racing oil. Works great!


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Old 11-18-2012, 10:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Should the new oil filter also be replaced? I have only ridden 150KM.
yes change the filter also, there will still be a fair amount of oil in the filter.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:06 AM   #22
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Just drain it don't make a huge deal of it. Your filter probably holds .3 qts if that. Most of the time people never reach the mileage where you'll have issues related to oil. I ran car oil in my f4i for 10k miles and it shifted fine, not saying I should have but I did. It's not as harmful as some make it out to be, still not recommending it though.
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Old 11-18-2012, 07:56 PM   #23
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Attachment 30690

This is the one I use. Just change your own oil. Very easy. I did mine yesterday =)


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Or hondas better oil

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Old 11-18-2012, 07:57 PM   #24
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Change both and you'll be good bro... And can u use miles instead of KM.. Haha
Divide by 1.6....
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:30 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the feedback guys, I have finally found some motorcycle specific oil, since I couldnt find any auto oil that complies with the 3 standards in the manual. I changed the OEM filter which had 100Kms on it (uh what the hell). Below is the oil I used, so much more effing expensive but I don't mind trying it out. I hope it produces the results it claims.

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Old 11-20-2012, 12:13 PM   #26
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thats more like it
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Or hondas better oil

The dealer actually told me that full synthetic oil will increase chances of clutch slipping? That's why I didn't get full synthetic. Is this true?
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Old 11-23-2012, 10:19 PM   #28
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The dealer actually told me that full synthetic oil will increase chances of clutch slipping? That's why I didn't get full synthetic. Is this true?
no it is not true, as long as the oil is jaso ma it is fine. the guy at the dealer that told you that just does not know any better.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:49 AM
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Old 11-27-2012, 01:43 AM   #29
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Quote:
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All your suggestions, killed in one foul swoop by:



Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-30, FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL(for those of you complaining about 2008 blade oil leaking, are you using this? no? thought so...) the W is Winter, so you're putting in 5W so thats for very cold temperatures, here in the UK we get snow in winter and I'm using 10W, the second number is how well it flows when heated to water boiling point or higher, I think 0w is rated to some of the lowest temperates these companies test

Castrol works with Honda, and are world renowned. Enough said.

I was looking for that, but nowhere to be found. The Maxima oil I bought is just starting to get into the engine. It seems it takes a couple of rides for the new oil to wash away the old (different oil) from the engine crevices and start performing. (Just a theory I have after I felt smoother operation on the 3rd ride after changing from the shitty (oil in OP) to the Maxima oil.
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Old 11-27-2012, 02:21 AM   #30
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Just to give you an idea of the yahoo's that work in the service department at dealers....

My friend just bought a 2012 Honda crf 450 off the floor. We hung out while they "prepped" it. It's a friggin Dirtbike..30 minutes later the guy comes out and says I'm sorry for the wait but we're having trouble finding the keys..keys!?!?.. Hahaha.
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