Now I was going in wanting 10w-40 after all the threads I read on here, I was disappointed to see they only used 5w-30. 10W-40 is quite rare here as very little people use it, I found one brand and its cost was 50% more than the Honda 5W-30. Cost wasnt an issue, I wanted the best. I did some further digging after the change. I found out that cold starts are the main reason of engine wear and having a lower viscosity oil would be better for the engine especially in cold times. Seeing the desert climate here means temperatures range from 22F/9C in the winter to 120F/50C in the summer. I could use 5W-30 in the winter which we are about to embrace and 10W-40 in the summer. What do you guys think?
that oil is most likely no good for your bike, car engine oil is for cars and is not formulated for wet clutches. check the bottle to see if it has the "JASO-MA" SPEC for wet clutches, it probably does not and if so drain it and get the proper oil.
this is why i do my own maintainance because you never know what kind of idiot at the dealer is working on your baby! **** i just had mine at the dealer to get the waterpump replaced "under warranty" and the frikin retard there even managed to screw that up! left a bolt loose and lost a part for my fairing, good thing i checked over my bike when i got home.
Hmm I think the dealership need to get some schooling.
The oil that they gave is one for cars. Specifically the LEV (Low Emission Vehicle) Honda engine.
I wouldn't even use it for my high performance Honda (Type Rs, Old H22A Prelude, S2000, NSX, etc)
Motorcycle oil has friction modifier which keeps it more stable when getting crushed by the gears.
In Cars the gearbox is completely separate to the engine therefore the oil doesn't get crushed by the gears.
In Motorcycle the engine oil is also used to lubricate the gearbox and clutch. When using car's oil the oil will get disintegrate as they are not supposed to handle the gear crushing on them and lose its lubricating properties.
You should really get it drained and get specific motorcycle oil. plenty of suggestion above.
Just because they are dealership doesn't mean they know best. Especially if they are mixed car and bike dealership.
The forum is filled with threads stating that the oil used should NOT contain friction modifiers, you are recommending the opposite?
you do not want an oil with friction modifiers,it will cause clutch slippage and premature clutch failure.Our bikes use a wet clutch and the engine and tranny share the same sump so car/truck engine oil is a big no no.there is lots of different motorcycle oils, honda gn4,motul 4t,mobil1 mx4t,castrol rs 4t,amsoil mcf are all suitable oils there has to be something you can get just make sure it is JASO-MA.You can use 10w30 or 10w40 or even 5w30,where i live i just use 10w40.
There are 2 types of Friction modifier
1. to reduce friction: this is bad as it may cause clutch slippage although not proven
2. to give it more resistance against the gear pressure: this is what is normally added to motorcycle oil.
I'd say OP should stick with the well known motorcycle oil
Honda GN4, Motul semi syntethic 5100, 6100, 7000 etc, Rotella whatever (I've never used them).
Just don't mix mineral, semi synthetic and full synthetic.
Also my motto is always more frequent changes is better than good oil for longer period of time.
I used Motul 5100 because it's readily available; I can rock into any motorcycle shop and get one without having to order.
Just drain it don't make a huge deal of it. Your filter probably holds .3 qts if that. Most of the time people never reach the mileage where you'll have issues related to oil. I ran car oil in my f4i for 10k miles and it shifted fine, not saying I should have but I did. It's not as harmful as some make it out to be, still not recommending it though.
Thanks for all the feedback guys, I have finally found some motorcycle specific oil, since I couldnt find any auto oil that complies with the 3 standards in the manual. I changed the OEM filter which had 100Kms on it (uh what the hell). Below is the oil I used, so much more effing expensive but I don't mind trying it out. I hope it produces the results it claims.
All your suggestions, killed in one foul swoop by:
Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-30, FULLY SYNTHETIC OIL(for those of you complaining about 2008 blade oil leaking, are you using this? no? thought so...) the W is Winter, so you're putting in 5W so thats for very cold temperatures, here in the UK we get snow in winter and I'm using 10W, the second number is how well it flows when heated to water boiling point or higher, I think 0w is rated to some of the lowest temperates these companies test
Castrol works with Honda, and are world renowned. Enough said.
I was looking for that, but nowhere to be found. The Maxima oil I bought is just starting to get into the engine. It seems it takes a couple of rides for the new oil to wash away the old (different oil) from the engine crevices and start performing. (Just a theory I have after I felt smoother operation on the 3rd ride after changing from the shitty (oil in OP) to the Maxima oil.
Just to give you an idea of the yahoo's that work in the service department at dealers....
My friend just bought a 2012 Honda crf 450 off the floor. We hung out while they "prepped" it. It's a friggin Dirtbike..30 minutes later the guy comes out and says I'm sorry for the wait but we're having trouble finding the keys..keys!?!?.. Hahaha.
1998 Honda civic with 97 Type R swap.
2007 RMZ 450