So I decided that with a heavy travel schedule this fall into winter that I would call it quits for riding season and start on the modification season. It's a humble start, as the bike is mostly stock except for maybe a handful of small mods:
Tripage LED Rear Pegs
Tripage Fender Eliminator with Pro IT (selectable brake and signal patterns)
Zero Gravity Corsica Windscreen
Leo Vince SO
Woodcraft Frame Sliders and Swingarm Sliders
Shogun Front Axle Sliders
Nothing too fancy that you've missed out on from me not starting this earlier. Things I plan on accomplishing this off season:
Borka HID Upgrade
Fren Tubo Brake Lines
CRG Rear Sets
Ohlins TTX MK II
various other Tripage things and maybe some fancy chain adjusters
On to the good stuff:
How she was mid slider install, FE/IT and Leo weren't installed yet
Post Slider and FE/IT Install
Post Leo Install
As she stands now
Will update as the mods take place. Until next time!
So I was kinda bumped out after I broke one of my angel eyes installing the Borka Mod so I tried to think of what else I could do while my headlights were apart and remembered that another member did a pretty cool carbon fibre wrap in his headlights and I kinda stole the idea from him. I was planning on using the Reflect-a-Gold for some bling under the rear fairing/ around the exhaust but decided to put it in my headlight instead right now.
So after I baked the housings in the oven, (that's still sound weird to me) I continued with the Borka Mod until I installed the back plate into the back half of the housing. At this point I opened up a 1ft x 2ft sheet of Reflect-a-Gold I got off of Amazon and traced out the shape of the back plate. You'll need a 1x2 sheet per side btw.
After cutting out the shape, I lined everything up and pressed the sheet on. The sheet has an adhesive back and you just peal off the paper and try your best to not have it stick to anything it touches while you're lining it up.
Sliding the plastic tabs on after the gold sheet had some small crinkling of the sheet, but I just used my fingernail to smooth it out as much as possible.
So I liked it so far but didn't want to stop with just the back plate. So I measured up the back housing and out of pure luck found that it was about 20in in circumference so the 2ft sheet was a good choice.
I then measured up the deepest part of the housing and found that to be about 3-3.5in and then cut a strip out of the sheet accordingly.
The random tab sticking into the housing really got me frustrated when I was applying the strip around the housing.
Doing this again, I would cut deeper shorter sections out and apply them around each side of the housing instead of trying to make a single strip wrap all the way around. Since this is the back, seams in the wrap aren't going to be seen that easily and it's going to make it so much easier to work around the adjusting bolts. You'll see when I get to the front half of the housing that the seams don't show up that much anyways unless you look real close. Anyways, I had some extra around some of the housing and just used a utility knife to cut around the housing.
At this point I wanted to see how much the front stood out without the gold and did not like what I saw...
So I measured the front housing just like the back, but didn't measure all the way around, just from the beginning of the ridges to the end of the ridges (once you open up the housing and look at the front half, you'll see what I'm talking out). Turns out I need a strip about 18in long and about 3.5-4 inch wide.
I used some of the previous extra strips and applied them temporarily to see if leaving a little bit of the black showing around the front near the lens would be cool or not. I thought not.
I did a dry fit to see what crazy bend I'm getting into with the sheet and then made some minor cuts that would have been along the lens if I did them after I applied the sheet.
After counting to 10 a few times, I finally got the sheet to fit into the really sharp corner on the bottom the the lens and then worked my way around the housing until I got to the other side of the bottom with the gradual curve. In the dry fit, I saw that the change in angle would not work with the single strip I cut so I cut diagonally along the bend of the housing. The pen line is about where the cut was made.
I then applied the second part of the sheet the rest of the way around the ridges and covered up any gaps that I had to make with some of the extra strips again.
Thanks guys. Yeah i like it so far. On days where I have to work at our test site, I bring it along with me and it works out pretty well. It's not real big so it travels well and fits just about all the tool I have right now so also convenient. I just need to get some organizers for all my sockets and wrenches. It takes about 5 minutes each time to find the one I'm looking for because they all mix around now. Working on English machines at work and having Metric vehicles doesn't make it easier either.
So due to some clumsiness handling the halo eyes I'm waiting on Borka's replacement parts to arrive to finish up the install on the headlights... and there's going to be some changes as well.
I'm also waiting on some CRG RC2 brake and clutch levers to come in to match my CRG SSR rearsets that I got awhile back. And since I mentioned them in a recent post about CRG's customer service but didn't include any pics...
Here they are:
lol, Jason I told you they were in pieces,
But seeing how that's unexciting I decided to put them together for you
I had a long stint where I got frustrated with pretty much all the projects I was posting about since I think all of them had something go wrong at about the same time. Very demotivating for me, so I just said "Fuckit" for a while. But since sending about $100000000000 on McMaster and replacement parts from Borka I powered through the pain and will be riding soon enough once again.
Let's see, I left off ... *actually scrolling up and see what I posted last* with the CRG levers and rearsets.
CRG states that the rearsets have almost infinite adjustability and let me tell you, they aren't joking. The level of adjust on these things will cause you to spend hours picking a position, sitting on the bike and feeling it out, then changing the position again to see if you like it better or worse. The good thing those is that once you find the sweet spot, you lock it in with some loctite and you're golden (no pun intended).
I'm still in the process of adjusting everything in these
The levers are also very nice and are very easy to adjust on the fly (nevermind the mess of wires in this pic- I'll explain it all later...)
Now, you might be wondering why the rear brake line is red while the fronts are grey. Well, grab a tissue cause some of you might shed a tear from this story i'm about to tell you.
It all began when I jumped in on the group buy from Mani to get the Type 3 (kevlar) Fren Tubo lines. While I had the bike apart one day I finally got around to swapping out the brake lines and got everything mocked up and looking good and began to tighten everything up and then...
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRR RRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG GGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG! (I was a bit upset)
So I got in contact with Mani again to see if there was any spare sets that you had available. Lucky enough he had a set of Type 4 (CaRbOn FiBeR) lines that needed a nice home. So I did what any part whore would do and snatched that **** up! Hahaha.
So I have carbon fiber weave up front and kevlar in the back. which I actually think looks fine. You can barely see the front lines as they blend in the shadow of the front and the red really pops and accents the rear.
What a tear jerker huh?
Alright, back to business then with the last mod, the most involved mod, the Golden Eyes!
So the Golden Eyes started off simple enough, following Borka's How To thread and wouldn't you know it, I broke one of the halo rings.
WHY DO THESE THINGS HAPPEN TO ME??!?!?
I contacted Borka and asked if there was any way to order some replacement rings and being the great guy he is, caved and I ordered new rings plus Devil Eye rings. Oh yeah! So I'm back to almost square one on the assembly on the eyes. I was extra careful on the assembly this time.
During the assembly I got nervous and conscience about the silicone securing the LED strips along the backplane. I wasn't happy with the glob of silicone being visible so I decided to drill some tiny holes and use some safety wire to make a practically invisible method of securing the strips.
That little bit of silicone residue it's going to be visible when the shroud in installed, so no worries there.
Next was trying to figure out how to get the 8 wires for the Halo's (2), Devil's (2), Hi/Lo control (2), and LEDs (2) out of the housing in such a way that changing the HID bulb in the future isn't going to require taking apart the headlight again. So after looking at what options I had, I decided to use the stock access holes where the pigtail penetrated the housing
Now using this option, I had to extend some wires (hopefully without f'ing something else up) since the Hi/Lo controls had the quick connect fitting on them and the Devil Eye leads were barely making it through the housing to begin with so adding distance to their path was only making thing worse.
When everything is put together at this point, this is what you get:
Not too shabby. Having the accessory wires routed this way also helps clean up the final assembly on the bike since most of that will be covered or down low and out of view.
Now onto mounting on the bike and wiring these bitches up!
Oh how I missed you
Now, since things weren't hard enough, I decided to have two switches to control the Halo and Devel eyes and the main headlights so that I'm not killing my battery on startup all the time. I'm not installing a switch to control the LEDs since they don't draw that much current and if I forget to turn on the other switches, they're back up (better than nothing). I chose MIL-SPEC toggle switches to handle the weather and other crap that they're going to face.
There's about 1/4 inch from the tip of the toggle to the fork and really only on the farthest of the travel.
Jealous yet? lol.
Okey dokey, that brings us to the pretty much to the point where I stand today. Once the housings were mounted and I made sure the switches weren't causing interference I started mocking up the wires needed to power everything. I could explain where all the wires go, but I don't feel like it so I'm just going to show you what a cluster F I created.
You can see in the pics that so far I've just taped up the connections after running wire under the headlights (around the front of the bike instead of having everything go back around the intake and tank. I don't think it should be a problem. When I get a chance I'll be spending some more time double checking the connections and soldering them up.
Until then, this is kinda what they're going to look like
The lights aren't on in that last pic, it's the flash from the camera reflecting in the housings.
I over torqued the bolt and as the bolt turned, the fitting turned with it and it happened to be right up against the engine kill switch - snap!
I test fitted everything up and tried to position the ballasts far enough in the side fairings so that it shouldn't be a problem on the actual fit. If there is a fitment issue though, they're on with double sided tape. Thanks for the concern though.
All good, I prob spent more time re-fitting my fairings and hiding all the damn wires than I did putting Borkas kit together... Let me know if you run into trouble, I can share location pics if you need em
Sun, everything lined up and connected without too much of an issue. I had to redo the upper fairing one time since the tabs that attached to the tank cover didn't want to connect at first. I pushed and pulled the mids and lowers and got everything to fit up eventually, but the tank tabs. This was after I figured out that my battery was dead and was frustrated and wasn't thinking the best.
After I got the battery ...(Ballistic EVO2 8 cell from STG - which was AMAZINGLY lighter compared to the stocker even with the Ballistic charger in the box as well. I nearly threw it up in the air when I picked it up the first time and shook it around to make sure things were in there.)... I took the upper off again and started with the tank tabs and everything fitted up nice.
Well, having first hand experience at this point of how quickly a dying battery will die even more when playing with HIDs, I started Juliet up for the first time since September. It took a while and I was a bit nervous, but she eventually fired up and Came BAck TO LIFE!!!!!!!
So the first thing I did was take pics and a quick vid
and a quick vid to show how the color changes as you walk around it
I went for a ride after I took these and found that the aiming of the lights were a bit off and need to go back and do some real aiming instead of just eyeballing it although I don't think I'm that far off. Apparently there is specific Inspection Code from PA as to how the light are to be aimed. I also need to change the angle of the rearset levers so that I don't need to lift my entire leg up to shift. That was a real pain. Aside from those minor adjustments, she's good to go for the season now!
I picked up the EVO2 from STG for $143.something. I honestly didn't think of MOTY until you reminded me of them now. ... Looking quickly at MOTY's site, the 8 cell battery is listed at $150. So it's pretty even. There's definitely a weight saving from stock, I'm not sure how much the MOTY weighs.
Appreciate the compliment. I knew the gold with the back lighting would be different, but didn't think out all the way through exactly what all the lighting effects would be in the end. I'm really happy with the results.
That still frame was taken maybe 30-45 minutes after me and my buddy rode past going the other direction. We broke off from the route to stop at one of our watering holes for a bite to eat then doubled back to the main route and out of no where - didn't hear sirens or anything while we were stopped - came up on that. There were cops and fire crews, broken glass, all the neighbors were standing outside looking, everything. I think it was taking the corner - you come down a hill and then have to make a fairly sharp turn - too fast and tipped over and into the poll. It's facing the wrong way on the other side of the road. We didn't stick around to find out what happened.