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Old 04-07-2012, 01:48 AM   #91
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Talking Thanks!

This thread is effing sah-weeeet!


& since 2007 for that matter!
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:34 AM   #92
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HEADS UP:

Heads up to anyone doing this.

TAKE YOUR TIME on the drain bolt (shifter side)

the aluminum threads are crappy and i accidentally stripped the hole out.

now either i need a new water pump or i need a tap and die job.
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Old 04-15-2012, 12:21 AM   #93
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Hey guys I did this tonight i tried a different product then water wetter... i tried the purple ice... Ill let you guys know if i notice a difference over the stock antifreeze
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Old 04-16-2012, 11:18 PM   #94
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the only thing this thread hasn't covered is Tq specs of the drain bolts and possible safety wire lol

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Old 07-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #95
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I notice you didn't volunteer the torque Specs either by the way Mr. track day giant image dropper .. Thanks for that

ADDENDUM:::->
Oh My Bad its been given already .. poo on you for missing it and me for believing you


Niner1000RR "Both bolts are 9lbf-ft" Post #34

I'm doing this TONIGHT Finally

Unfortunately my torque wrench doesn't go that low .. :-(
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:21 PM   #96
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torque is 9 ft-lbs for both drain bolts BUT... honda says in the manual to just tighten the cylinder drain bolt pretty tight because you cant get a torque wrench in there.

also no one has mentioned this. as with all crush washers (oil drain bolt, all brake line bolts, coolant flush bolts) they need to be replaced everytime the bolt is removed. i know this usually doesnt happen, but i'll pay an extra buck or two to do what honda recommends.

just did engine ice this weekend. but i may have to redo it (sucks i know)

temp is the same when running and even gets a bit hotter when i'm sitting in traffic. i'm gonna have to drain the radiator. no freezing in florida. so i may go the watter wetter route.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:18 AM   #97
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Could not get 3.75 quarts in there !!!!!! ! Scared !!!

Got two and that took alot of work

flushed her four times with distilled !!!!

Just would not take another drop after 2 quarts

what the hell !!! ?!?!?!
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:11 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CProgrammer View Post
Could not get 3.75 quarts in there !!!!!! ! Scared !!!

Got two and that took alot of work

flushed her four times with distilled !!!!

Just would not take another drop after 2 quarts

what the hell !!! ?!?!?!
you would only be able to fill it with the full capacity if the engine was disassembled. flushing it out only gets the old coolant out. the water still sits in the bottom of the radiator and in cooling pockets around the engine. i fit a little more than 2 quarts in there.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:57 AM   #99
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Thanks

I earnestly appreciate your reply... and I believe you but everyone seems to insist that there's actually more to it.

That you can actually get it all out and replace it all during this flush process....

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.p...49#post3542549

So I have been trying and trying to get her to bubble up some more air pockets and get more coolant in. It's hard to tell if shes running hotter as if I'm missing some coolant since its been abnormally hot here the past few weeks. stoplight 225 versus what I'm used to seeing 220...


Yours is the FIRST post to give me a 2 quart reference versus 3.5 to 3.75 almost four quart reference.
Even the manual says "'07's cooling system uses 3.65 qts including reserve tank" but honestly I'm grabbing that from the forum I haven opened my PDF or hardcopy to confirm that ---- I guess I will this evening...

Thanks man really appreciate the slap of reality I was worried thinking I was missing a quart of coolant
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:18 PM   #100
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I did the coolant flush today. I used prestone long life without silicates and a few other things but don't remember. I zip tied a funnel to the coolant hose to stop the splatter when draining the coolant. I didn't have a big drip pan so this worked well.
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Old 08-23-2012, 02:19 AM   #101
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Thanks for the excellent post! Does anyone know if the process differs on an 09? I plan on doing this soon.
Lastly, when changing my air filter I took the rad cap off to look at my coolant and noticed a bunch of tiny metallic looking particles which seemed top disappear when rubbed between my fingers. Is this normal for factory coolant? :confused:


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Old 08-23-2012, 08:40 AM   #102
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^No its not different.

Are you guys mixing WW with coolant or just running straight WW?
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:11 PM   #103
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thank you for the guide. Just did my flush right now. Nice and smooth

now running water wetter. :) bye bye green stuff
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Old 10-15-2012, 12:31 AM   #104
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doesn't water wetter freeze? gonna need something that doesn't freeze to survive this high desert winter lol
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:39 PM   #105
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if your area gets below 0 degrees then yes it will freeze. But Cali never gets that cold, so i am safe.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:49 PM   #106
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High desert reaches freezing in the winter....gearing up

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Old 11-08-2012, 09:25 PM   #107
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Thanks, I couldn't find the drain bolt.
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Old 11-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impostor71 View Post
The 07 RR is just a bit different than the 05-06 in the previously written guide (http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/248112.aspx). So when I flushed mine, I took some pictures for those who are unsure where everything is located like I was.

Hope this helps the 07 owners and please let me know if there are mistakes in these directions.

1. Take off the bottom fairing.

2. Take off right side mid and upper fairing to expose the radiator cap.


3. Undo the 10mm bolt, pop the lid and dump the coolant out of the reserve bottle.


4. The water pump is on the left side near the gear lever. Look for the shiny aluminum pipe.


5. The water pump drain bolt (10mm) is near where the aluminum pipe goes into the water pump.


6. Before doing the next steps, exercise caution if the bike is still hot. You can get burned by the steam and/or hot coolant, so best if you wait until bike has cooled off.

7. Undo the drain bolt. Some coolant will drip out. Place a pan under there before proceeding.

8. Remove the radiator cap. When you remove the radiator cap, coolant will pour out of the drain bolt at the bottom. Wait until it stops draining.

9. Replace and tighten the drain bolt.

10. At the radiator cap opening, fill system with distilled water. Close radiator cap.

11. Run the bike to operating temp so the water pump circulates the distilled water.

12. Turn off bike and wait for it to cool.

13. Repeat steps 6-12 a couple times until whats coming out is clear distilled water.

14. Once clear, tighten the drain bolt back up for good per torque specs.

15. Then fill system with your favorite coolant or distilled water+Wetter.

16. With radiator cap still off, start the bike and watch the coolant get sucked down into the pump and radiator. Add more coolant to fill it up again. Blip throttle 3-4 times to burp the air out of the system. Add more coolant if needed. Replace and tighten the radiator cap.

17. Fill reserve bottle with coolant to the lower mark.

18. Replace your fairings.

19. Done!
Great guide. Thanks!
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Old 11-15-2012, 08:25 AM   #109
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nice write up...

did the same thing to my 2007 hornet(600rr 2007 engine) the minute a bought it new,since it was a 2007 stock...

i also modified the thermostat while at it cause the bloody thing boiled in traffic...100-106c and i think your rr's behave the same...

i did 9 2mm holes on the wide side of the stat...(drill it with the rubber sealant on so that you know the point under which you should drill...)

quite a difference...with 20c air temp it goes up to 75c at 100kmp...takes A LOT longer to build up in traffic and the best thing is that when at 100c,if you run it for a couple of hundred meters even at low speeds,drops immediately to 90...

in a 11 km commute with 8-10 relatively long red lights it never started the fan...

used a 50-50 mixture of total organic coolant and distiled water...

Last edited by reinmeister; 11-15-2012 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:10 PM   #110
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Thanks op. perfect time for me to see this even though this thread is 5 years okd
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:18 PM   #111
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My coolant drained in a spray and not a consistent stream...why is that?

Made for a very messy day lol

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Old 11-15-2012, 04:37 PM   #112
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Quote:
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My coolant drained in a spray and not a consistent stream...why is that?

Made for a very messy day lol

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was it hot? had the bike been cooled before hand?
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Old 11-15-2012, 06:56 PM   #113
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I let it sit for a bit...maybe I should have let it cool down longer

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Old 11-20-2012, 05:10 AM   #114
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Now that I've come across this thread I now have a little job ahead of me
Thank you sir
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Old 01-29-2013, 04:58 AM   #115
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It gets cold up in CT,any other recommended coolant?
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Old 01-31-2013, 09:36 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by impostor71 View Post

16. With radiator cap still off, start the bike and watch the coolant get sucked down into the pump and radiator. Add more coolant to fill it up again. Blip throttle 3-4 times to burp the air out of the system. Add more coolant if needed. Replace and tighten the radiator cap.

just a quick question, starting the bike with the radiator cap off wont have coolant spitting out everywhere? Sorry noob question. Is there some type of line to tell you when to stop filling?
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:42 PM   #117
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great tread i will be flushing it soon. ill just going to buy the Honda antifreeze
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:37 PM   #118
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Just sent this thread to my buddy who was needing some help.

Thanks a bunch!


For reference, he was having heating problems because he didnt blurp the system of air bubles.
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:06 AM   #119
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I just did a coolant change on bike tonight. Might want to add "It doesn't come out like oil(A more viscous liquid)". It sprayed out and I could barely get it in my drain pan :P

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Old 04-20-2013, 06:10 PM   #120
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LOL, That will happen.
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