noob here, but I too have a rattle most prominent at 4200.
My local shop put on the ape cct and it rattles less at lower and higher revs but still hits that noisy spot around 4k every time. I took it back over and he adjusted it, but as others have said in this thread, he didn't want to make it too tight.
Have any of you successfully stopped the annoying vibration noise completely or do you just live with it?
SoyMilk: The OEM CCT is a spring loaded unit that just keeps pushing on the tensioner at a specific rate to keep the chain tight. They do go out and the CBR seems to have lots of problems with CCT. If it's really making noise, I suggest you change it. Whether you use the OEM unit or an APE is up to you but the APE needs to be periodically adjusted as per the manual. Lots of newbies or non-mechanically minded riders don't do this thinking it's a lifetime unit. It says it's a MANUAL CCT, so that means it must be manually adjusted. The Honda OEM one is an automatic CCT but, as noted, seems to be fairly weak in the long run. Don't know of any automatic CCT's on the after market. Any info on that anyone? Stock OEM automatic CCT's cost around $65-70, the APE can be had for about $51-59.
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SoyMilk: The OEM CCT is a spring loaded unit that just keeps pushing on the tensioner at a specific rate to keep the chain tight. They do go out and the CBR seems to have lots of problems with CCT. If it's really making noise, I suggest you change it. Whether you use the OEM unit or an APE is up to you but the APE needs to be periodically adjusted as per the manual. Lots of newbies or non-mechanically minded riders don't do this thinking it's a lifetime unit. It says it's a MANUAL CCT, so that means it must be manually adjusted. The Honda OEM one is an automatic CCT but, as noted, seems to be fairly weak in the long run. Don't know of any automatic CCT's on the after market. Any info on that anyone? Stock OEM automatic CCT's cost around $65-70, the APE can be had for about $51-59.
So if your replacing the OEM CCT because it's no longer doing it's job then why not just get a new OEM one? Why mess with an aftermarket manual CCT? If the OEM CCT is more then capable at offering more then enough tension but just went bad why not just get a new OEM one? It's not like the OEM one is like $200+ and this is an inexpensive alternative it's only $10-$15 cheaper.
I have heard two reasons.
Not sure how accurate they are.
One, because the OEM ones tend to go bad.
Two, if you do track days and/or race, the spring in the stock one can't always keep up with the constant full throttle revs.
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I have heard two reasons.
Not sure how accurate they are.
One, because the OEM ones tend to go bad.
Two, if you do track days and/or race, the spring in the stock one can't always keep up with the constant full throttle revs.
All parts go bad over time and the second reason makes no sense. It's spring loaded and locks so once it goes out a certain distance it doesn't go back. It's not like it goes in and out constantly. Also it'll only moves a very tiny bit at a time.
Just wanna say thanks for the write up & Pics..
Saved me a few bucks and hopefully saved my bike..
I am waiting on the APE Tensioner, Should be in the mail 2morrow, I Hope!!!
HOW TO: Install APE Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) to get rid of noise, rattle, etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuttynu
Here is my video guide, make are you get the TDC line up
1st off... Thanks for the vid! Going to be doing this today seeing as I got my ape in this afternoon.
And 2nd... Damn bro, you made me cold as hell watching you work on your bike in 10 deg weather! That's why I moved from Michigan and went to South Florida!
You mentioned a rattling noise. i dont hear much of a rattle, more like a whirling sound coming from my engine. i have 27k on my bike... i dont hear the noise unless i hit a certain speed/RPM usuallly when i hit 3rd gear. 45mph and above. the noise kicks in.. IF i pull the clutch the noise goes away. 1st gear no noise... and neither on second... BUT there is def a whirling/ semi rattle noise.. I figured it had something to do with the clutch. since the noise goes away when i pull it...
You mentioned a rattling noise. i dont hear much of a rattle, more like a whirling sound coming from my engine. i have 27k on my bike... i dont hear the noise unless i hit a certain speed/RPM usuallly when i hit 3rd gear. 45mph and above. the noise kicks in.. IF i pull the clutch the noise goes away. 1st gear no noise... and neither on second... BUT there is def a whirling/ semi rattle noise.. I figured it had something to do with the clutch. since the noise goes away when i pull it...
If your CCT was bad, u should be able to hear the rattle noise at bike's idle...
Hmm that noise your hearing; I know what your talking about, cause I have heard it on my buddies Cbr once too. I'm thinking it may be coming from the clutch. Hopefully some one can chime in.
HOW TO: Install APE Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) to get rid of noise, rattle, etc.
For me, I just replaced my cct to an ape on my track bike. At idle, all was fine, but one I got to the higher rpms, especially in 2nd and 3rd gear, I had the noise from the can chain. The track that I am at most is fairly technical so most of the time I'm in those gears. It was almost a bad vibration more than anything. I replaced it with the ape and it all went away.
