2007 - 2012 Honda CBR 600RR Projector headlights kit HID BiXenon Angel Eyes Halo - Page 17 : Honda CBR 600RR Sportbike Forum : 600RR.Net

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07-13 RR Modifications Modifications to the '07- to 013 600RR

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Old 08-18-2012, 01:05 AM   #481
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Do you guys still offer the "send everything in, and get it all back for plugin?"
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Old 08-18-2012, 11:15 AM   #482
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Straight off the site:

We offer custom retrofits, starting at only $200 (You send us your headlights)

Install any of our compatible projector kits into your headlight.
Add Dual Angel Eyes
Add Audi style LED strips
Black out the headlight reflectors
Install an on/off switch, to turn off HID's so you can have only angel eyes and LED strips on.
Make kit completely plug and play.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by borka View Post
Hello 600RR.net,
We offer custom retrofits, starting at only $150
Simply send me your headlight, let me know what custom options you want, and i'll work my magic and return your headlight completely assembled and PLUG and PLAY! simply install your headlight and plug everything in. Thats it!
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:16 PM   #483
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Got my kit just in time. Thanks borka! Was walking out the door this morning to head down to Baltimore for bimmerfest and the package was at my door. I'm gonna start the install Sunday night. Will update with progress pics.
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Old 08-28-2012, 02:20 AM   #484
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started to put the kit together today. I managed to strip the fairings off in about 20 mins, def. wont go back on the quickly. Wow, running the wires is a PITA. My head was spinning for about an hour trying to figure out how i could make all wires reach where then needed to go. In particular the high and low beam wires from the stock harness so they could reach both ballasts, i wound up running those wires under the headlight, including the switch wires.

Just to SH*t on my parade when i got everything figured out, I smell this horrible most gut turning crap comming from outside. I see my dog rolling around on the grass, and wham it hit me like a ton of bricks..... my dog got sprayed by a skunk!!! Stop the build and washed the dog using some house hold concoction. It worked pretty good, he doesnt smell anymore, but i'm completely drained of all energy. Will pick up tomorrow, i"ll post pics of the wiring, it would have helped me out a ton.
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:07 AM   #485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackDaWack View Post
started to put the kit together today. I managed to strip the fairings off in about 20 mins, def. wont go back on the quickly. Wow, running the wires is a PITA. My head was spinning for about an hour trying to figure out how i could make all wires reach where then needed to go. In particular the high and low beam wires from the stock harness so they could reach both ballasts, i wound up running those wires under the headlight, including the switch wires.

Just to SH*t on my parade when i got everything figured out, I smell this horrible most gut turning crap comming from outside. I see my dog rolling around on the grass, and wham it hit me like a ton of bricks..... my dog got sprayed by a skunk!!! Stop the build and washed the dog using some house hold concoction. It worked pretty good, he doesnt smell anymore, but i'm completely drained of all energy. Will pick up tomorrow, i"ll post pics of the wiring, it would have helped me out a ton.
Ya, i think i used about 10mtrs of wire on mine... was a biach to hide but managed to pack it all up under the tank and run along with the existing wire loom.

Everything is doable, but its tricky to hide all the damn transformers on the right hand side.

Good luck bro
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Old 08-28-2012, 04:29 AM   #486
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Borka, The kit comes with white grommets/washers.. I assume they are for the projector.. Do they go on the projector side, front? or on the mounting side, rear?

Also, what are the triangle brackets for?
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:49 AM   #487
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Borka, The kit comes with white grommets/washers.. I assume they are for the projector.. Do they go on the projector side, front? or on the mounting side, rear?
If you are talking about the squishy rubber ones? they go at the rear of the projector to stop any vibration, I aint have pics for it so hopefully Borka can post some up.

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Also, what are the triangle brackets for?
Mounting the Ballasts - notice the triangle holes match up with those on the ballast. You prob won't need them if you mount the ballasts like they do in this vid:

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Old 08-28-2012, 01:28 PM   #488
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Yeah i used the video late last night to mount the ballasts, it helped a lot. As for the rubber washer. I put it behind the mounting plate. So it goes lock nut, bracket, rubber washer, projector bracket, and then the projector sits right up against the projector bracket. I wasn't sure which side of the bracket it goes on. I think i need to put it on the other side. Between the projector base and the mounting bracket. I painfully went through all the threads and found one picture of it, but im not sure if its the correct way. Since borka said it was a metal on metal contact when someone suggested using a rubber washer for vibrations.
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Old 08-28-2012, 07:21 PM   #489
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Also, i bought the relay to run the led's as running/blinkers. Although they will only do one function. Either run and turn off when the blinker goes on, or only blink with the blinker on. I'm so confused.
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:45 PM   #490
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I ordered a flasher relay, hopefully the leds will blink when installed.. The protons and rear leds blink, so not sure. As of now the blinking side turns off, like the new audi's.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:52 PM   #491
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Does anyone know how the lights run by default? I'd like to get the kit with angel eye, demon eye, and led strip. I want to be able to control them with the factory light switch. Basically, with the switch on low beam position, I want the led, angel and demon eyes to be running. When I switch it to high beam, I want the demon eyes to turn off(demon eyes might not show once HID turns on so this can probably stay on too) and the HID to turn on. Is this possible without having to mount some stupid switch somewhere? This should give me a clean look with simple controls.
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:55 PM   #492
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Does anyone know how the lights run by default? I'd like to get the kit with angel eye, demon eye, and led strip. I want to be able to control them with the factory light switch. Basically, with the switch on low beam position, I want the led, angel and demon eyes to be running. When I switch it to high beam, I want the demon eyes to turn off(demon eyes might not show once HID turns on so this can probably stay on too) and the HID to turn on. Is this possible without having to mount some stupid switch somewhere? This should give me a clean look with simple controls.
you can do that, but then you will loose the high beam functions.

The way i normally wire everything, is i connect a small on/off switch to the hid's low beam, this way you can turn off the hid's.
I also connect all the accessories to the low beam positive as well.

In this scenario you will be able to control the hid's on/off with the added switch, and retain the hi/low beam function with your stock handlebar switch.

The added switch is a very small round flush mount switch, and it looks good when installed.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:08 PM   #493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borka View Post
you can do that, but then you will loose the high beam functions.

The way i normally wire everything, is i connect a small on/off switch to the hid's low beam, this way you can turn off the hid's.
I also connect all the accessories to the low beam positive as well.

In this scenario you will be able to control the hid's on/off with the added switch, and retain the hi/low beam function with your stock handlebar switch.

The added switch is a very small round flush mount switch, and it looks good when installed.

Thanks for the quick response. Maybe I can do it your way but instead of connecting the additional small switch to the low beam, I can connect it to the hi-beam.... that way I can control the low beam off and on with the factory switch and the high beam(which I rarely use) on a small switch mounted somewhere. this can work right?
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:10 PM   #494
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With Borka's original wiring diagram, your high beam switch turns on the lights even when the added switch for the lights is off. But, you will be in hi-beam mode. That switch really simplifies the wiring, and you can mount it anywhere, some people put it inside the fairing by the front shocks, i put mine on the black headlight trim... barely notice its there, and easily accessed. With projectors you want to be able to hit your highbeams on/off quickly, rememeber your going to have a sharp cutoff, so you dont get light above the cutoff, you will use your high beams a lot more with projectors.


You can wire it the way you said, but you will loose the ease of use with high beams. You could wire up both hi and low to the high beam positive, with a switch on the ballast hi beams, and all accessories on the low beam positive.

I just want to stress, having projectors on both my car and bike, that you will use your highbeams much more then with standard lights, you dont get "bleeding" of light. On dark roads, you literally have tons of light up to the cut off and then nothing above, angle of the roads can severely limit visibility, and i find myself hitting the hi beams on hills a lot so i can see above the cut off. I wouldn't want to be fumbling for the switch. And with the switch on the lowbeams, even if off, they will still turn on when you hit the hi-beams on, say you need light or to signal someone, you can still use the handlebar switch to do so with out turning the low beam switch on.
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Last edited by JackDaWack; 08-30-2012 at 02:23 PM.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:30 PM   #495
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looks pretty sick
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Old 10-01-2012, 03:49 PM   #496
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looks awesome, will def keep these in mind.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:38 AM   #497
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Hi guys

So what would happen if I went and placed the ballast, CCFL and Demon drivers and wiring on top of the mounting plate…like so (used double sided tape – No More Nails - to stick them down)



How hot does the ballast and for that matter the projector actually get? Will I melt/damage the drivers and wiring due to heat from either the ballast or projector? I know that some guys have managed to cram everything inside the light housing and never complained about heat…
My plan is to run the light for a while just to see what happens before I close it up.
For a clean finish I will add a second blacked out plate/plastic over all the drivers and wiring and attach it to the back of the chrome projector shroud.
Everything fits in really nice with lots of space behind the mounting plate to plug in and run all the wiring…





Alternatively I need to mount the ballast at the back of the mounting plate but I think that might cause some clearance issues between the projector and housing.
Any feedback will be much appreciated!

Last edited by shy_boy; 10-23-2012 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 10-23-2012, 06:44 AM   #498
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I am just installing 1 light on my track bike to make it dual purpose.
Won't really be driving at night so will only run halo's and Demon eyes during the day. But if I do drive at night I'm just concerned that I might melt all the drivers and wiring...
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Old 10-24-2012, 12:26 PM   #499
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I am just installing 1 light on my track bike to make it dual purpose.
Won't really be driving at night so will only run halo's and Demon eyes during the day. But if I do drive at night I'm just concerned that I might melt all the drivers and wiring...
I cant tell you if you will have issues or not, as i never did the install like that, but the projector bowl gets very hot, so heat might be an issue, as components usually need room to breathe and cool down, and being all cramped like that with a hot ballast, and super hot projector bowl, and mounted to a metal frying pan (mounting plate).

youre welcome to try it, but something might fail due to heat.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:55 AM   #500
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I cant tell you if you will have issues or not, as i never did the install like that, but the projector bowl gets very hot, so heat might be an issue, as components usually need room to breathe and cool down, and being all cramped like that with a hot ballast, and super hot projector bowl, and mounted to a metal frying pan (mounting plate).

youre welcome to try it, but something might fail due to heat.
Thanks borka!

Thought the heat might be an issue.
Will re-think the positioning. Maybe put the ballast underneath the mounting plate and spread the units away from the projector bowl...

Do you guys mount the ballasts etc on the outside?
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Old 10-25-2012, 08:32 PM   #501
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Thanks borka!

Thought the heat might be an issue.
Will re-think the positioning. Maybe put the ballast underneath the mounting plate and spread the units away from the projector bowl...

Do you guys mount the ballasts etc on the outside?
ballasts mount on the side of the bike behind the side fairings, exactly the same as a regular hid kit.
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Old 10-27-2012, 02:20 AM   #502
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:03 PM   #503
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Youve got exactly what i want! Looks good man

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Old 11-02-2012, 02:44 PM   #504
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With Borka's original wiring diagram, your high beam switch turns on the lights even when the added switch for the lights is off. But, you will be in hi-beam mode. That switch really simplifies the wiring, and you can mount it anywhere, some people put it inside the fairing by the front shocks, i put mine on the black headlight trim... barely notice its there, and easily accessed. With projectors you want to be able to hit your highbeams on/off quickly, rememeber your going to have a sharp cutoff, so you dont get light above the cutoff, you will use your high beams a lot more with projectors.


You can wire it the way you said, but you will loose the ease of use with high beams. You could wire up both hi and low to the high beam positive, with a switch on the ballast hi beams, and all accessories on the low beam positive.

I just want to stress, having projectors on both my car and bike, that you will use your highbeams much more then with standard lights, you dont get "bleeding" of light. On dark roads, you literally have tons of light up to the cut off and then nothing above, angle of the roads can severely limit visibility, and i find myself hitting the hi beams on hills a lot so i can see above the cut off. I wouldn't want to be fumbling for the switch. And with the switch on the lowbeams, even if off, they will still turn on when you hit the hi-beams on, say you need light or to signal someone, you can still use the handlebar switch to do so with out turning the low beam switch on.
Yep I agree with this completely. It was strange changing from the bleeding stock lights to HIDs. The cut-off really stands out. I live on the base of a small mountain range. I went up there at night to test the new lights and it was pretty weird getting used to the cut-off. In a straight line they are are unreal; super bright and you can see everything for miles. Then you turn a corner, the cut-off clips the road, and you can't see through the corner at all. I really shouldn't be on the twisties at night anyway but HIDs make it really dangerous on tight corners. I don't regret getting them at all. They're super bright, look unreal and I get mad puss(not really) , I'd just avoid tight corners until you are used to the cut-off.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:31 AM   #505
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Yep I agree with this completely. It was strange changing from the bleeding stock lights to HIDs. The cut-off really stands out. I live on the base of a small mountain range. I went up there at night to test the new lights and it was pretty weird getting used to the cut-off. In a straight line they are are unreal; super bright and you can see everything for miles. Then you turn a corner, the cut-off clips the road, and you can't see through the corner at all. I really shouldn't be on the twisties at night anyway but HIDs make it really dangerous on tight corners. I don't regret getting them at all. They're super bright, look unreal and I get mad puss(not really) , I'd just avoid tight corners until you are used to the cut-off.
if you use the high beams in corners, the light should shine better through the corner.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:02 PM   #506
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:09 PM   #507
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Looks good. Just received mine today going to start on it this weekend

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Old 11-18-2012, 06:01 PM   #508
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looks good. i did this on the liter bike. i suggest using the wifes/gf's hair dryer rather than baking them. thanks just me.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:18 PM   #509
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Old 11-22-2012, 06:22 PM   #510
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Thanks for the kit Borka, it arrived today. Hope to fit this weekend. Will be back with pics....
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