RPM's hanging up/ lack of engine braking - Page 2 : Honda CBR 600RR Sportbike Forum : 600RR.Net

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Troubleshooting Having trouble with your bike? Common know issues or trobuleshooting questions here.

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Old 04-07-2012, 05:56 AM   #31
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It may just be that the butterflies are sticking a little mate. Might be worth pulling it all apart and giving it a clean... there is a few things that will mess with the tune here though so if you aren't confident take it to a shop.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:26 PM   #32
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I'm quite aware of the different things that can effect a tune, I wish i had access to a honda scan tool so i could take a flight record of when its doing this so i could see throttle % and other items. The butterfly's were clean last time i checked and i did lubricate the cables and everything is free and not hanging up.

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Old 05-20-2012, 11:47 AM   #33
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Im thinking it has to do with the idle air control valve. I replaced the IAT sensor, IACV sensor, and the map sensor. Still having this issue. For whatever reason the IACV is dumping extra air into the throttle body. The IACV is basically a bypass from the top of the butterflies to undernearth them. The idea of this IACV is Honda cheap and poorly designed effort to reduce wheel hop when you let off the throttle at high RPM's. Im still trying to figure out a solution to this problem and have done LOTS of research with no fix yet. I narrowed it down to this problem happening when the engine has been running up to operating temperature. Will ride for 3 hours straight or half hour. When I shut it off for a short period of time and restart it is when it occurs. My next thought to this fix is upgrading to an HRC ECU?? or flashing the ECU?? Anyone try this yet?
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Old 10-13-2012, 09:15 PM   #34
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i have a very similar problem. I did a pair removal, manual cct, and reinstalled a zbomb and when i got back on the road noticed there was no engine brake (Sometimes or very weak). I tested the bike at 3rd gear let off at 40mph and it VERY VERY slowly decreased speed maybe 1 mph every 2 secs.

When i did the pair removal i used the Driven plates and left the reeds and baffles in. Should i have removed them? either that is causing it or like Joey said a sensor when bad during the process. I know inorder to get the airbox out i had to be a little rough since the harness is really tight. I'm planning on looking at it again tomorrow she's been sitting in the garage for a couple weeks now.
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:04 AM   #35
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this sounds similar to a probllem i may have had.

check everything connected to fuel tank?

vents and fuel supply to injectors.....before you lift tank look very carefully to see if something may be pinched.(with flashlight!).

I got to the point that i would check with hand w/o looking as i drop tank.

and then check 3x afterward.

electrical leads and grounds good to/from fuel pump?

IMO.... 07+is really sensitive to tank vents being pinched.... and gas tank level can cause a (rapid) change in the vent/vacuum system.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:23 AM   #36
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Yep, you are a supposed to remove the reeds...
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:18 PM   #37
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Leaving the reeds and baffles in doesn't matter, even though you should take them out. IACV is the issue. If you put a fuel controller on a 07-08 600rr, you are going to have lack of engine braking. You could disconnect the IACV, but I'm not sure if this will screw up other things?
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:38 AM   #38
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If you remove the IACV it won't idle correctly any more, if at all. And that's assuming he has an 07+. If it's an 03-06 it could be that the throttle body (starter valves) need balancing.
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Old 11-26-2012, 02:44 PM   #39
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I'm experiencing the same issue on my 09 600RR. I'm stock besides a slip-on. Happens at all gears/ ~4-6k RPMs and notice it more a high speed while I'm slowing down.

I'm going to have my bike serviced soon and would like some ideas on where to start.
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Old 09-19-2013, 11:04 AM   #40
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Bringing this topic back from the Dead, Just got my bike back out of storage and this is back in full force. It does it now after a quick trip to say the gas station. I am hoping to do a full tear down in the next week or so and will be checking over everything. Has anyone made any progress on what the cause may be?
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:52 PM   #41
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I have no idea I would like to know also. Mine fixed itself, after one day of no engine braking.

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Old 12-31-2013, 01:04 AM   #42
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Bumping this up since I'm having the same issue. Did anyone find the cause and/or solution?
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Old 01-12-2014, 12:43 PM   #43
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I have had the same problem.When I start the bike and let it warm up without touching the throttle, it comes down to 1400 when warm. As soon as I blip it once, it jumps up to 2000 and stays there. When I ride in any gear, as I get the revs between 5K-6K and change gears, the revs don't come down at all. feels like I am riding an automatic. You have to brake for the revs to start dropping. My bike is a 2011 and I bought it brand new. Serviced by honda the whole time. Here is the strange part. It started doing that when it was 14 months old. Took it into honda as it was under warranty and they could not find the problem. Replaced sensors, throttle body etc, etc. Finally replaced the ECU with a new one and it was instantly fixed. Been running like a dream for the last 7 months. Problem is it started again. Bike has been with the agent for the last 5 weeks trying to find the problem. Back to ordering a new ECU again. That will be the 3rd ECU in the last 2 years. Really don't know what to do now. The repairs are still under warranty, but the warranty ran out this month, so I am a bit worried it happens again in the next 6 or 7 months where I will have to start paying for it.
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Old 01-12-2014, 02:06 PM   #44
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Mine was very similar but not exactly the same. It felt fine above 7k rpm and below 4k rpm. From 7k down to 5k there was no engine braking, especially in the 5k-5500 range. It's just like you describe, feels like cruise control or driving an automatic car. Around 4700rpm the bike would hiccup and regain full engine braking rather violently. It was repeatable in any gear.

I don't know the exact parameters of the secondary injectors but afaik 5-7k should be when they normally open/close. I didn't think it would help but I ran a bottle of Techron concentrate through (half bottle per tank) and the problem is completely gone. I have a feeling it'll come back eventually though. I guess only time will tell.

I suspect a problem in the cold start system. Do our bikes have cold start injectors? It seems logical that Honda would just use the secondary injectors instead of a separate cold start injector. It would also explain why idle tries to hover around 2k, it's like the bike thinks the engine is still cold. I don't know enough about the ECU or our EFI system to figure it out. I need to read the service manual one day.

edit: My other theory was bad gas, but your case doesn't really support that.

Last edited by PatrickRR; 01-12-2014 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:46 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Izzyskint View Post
I have had the same problem.When I start the bike and let it warm up without touching the throttle, it comes down to 1400 when warm. As soon as I blip it once, it jumps up to 2000 and stays there. When I ride in any gear, as I get the revs between 5K-6K and change gears, the revs don't come down at all. feels like I am riding an automatic. You have to brake for the revs to start dropping. My bike is a 2011 and I bought it brand new. Serviced by honda the whole time. Here is the strange part. It started doing that when it was 14 months old. Took it into honda as it was under warranty and they could not find the problem. Replaced sensors, throttle body etc, etc. Finally replaced the ECU with a new one and it was instantly fixed. Been running like a dream for the last 7 months. Problem is it started again. Bike has been with the agent for the last 5 weeks trying to find the problem. Back to ordering a new ECU again. That will be the 3rd ECU in the last 2 years. Really don't know what to do now. The repairs are still under warranty, but the warranty ran out this month, so I am a bit worried it happens again in the next 6 or 7 months where I will have to start paying for it.
If you've had exactly that problem twice before they should fix it under warranty again even if the warranty has run out. It can be quite easily argued that something is damaging the ECU, and they should have fixed it when the second one blew.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:41 AM   #46
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That is what I am hoping. I see how long the new one lasts and as you say, will argue the point that the problem was not fixed.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:43 PM   #47
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Just an update on this. Bike came back out of winter storage. I put new fork seals in, new tires, new front brakes. oil change. coolant flush, new battery and rechecked the valve clearance. Throttle bodies were not dirty but i wiped them out again anyway. tried to make sure nothing was pinched under the tank.

Took it out this morning and it ran great until i stopped for gas. After the restart it was back to acting up again. This is really causing me to hate the bike. We shall see has it runs on the ride home from work. I will quadruple check the lines from the tank and map sensor to make sure they aren't pinched.
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Old 08-08-2014, 01:56 AM   #48
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maddening prob....LMK if I can help?
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Old 08-08-2014, 11:30 AM   #49
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If it's not the tank vents and it's still happening I'm inclined to suggest ECU.

It's not an uncommon problem with the 07-08 bikes, and occurs to a lesser extent with the 09. There may well be a common fault with the ECU that's causing it. I don't really know, but if I was asked to take a stab at it that's where I'd look.
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Old 08-22-2014, 03:46 PM   #50
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checked all the vents again and don't see anything pinched. no pressure build up in the tank either. Ran great to go to work yesterday. let it sit in the parking garage for 8.5 hours and it was actiing up immediately. I'm going to try and pay attention to the bikes warm up process to see how it operates when it runs correctly vs hanging up. I may start looking for a used ecm. not sure i want to see the price tag for a new one
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