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07-13 RR Modifications Modifications to the '07- to 013 600RR

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Old 04-04-2010, 06:20 AM   #1
sauluk
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adjusting shift lever up (not clutch lever)

My new boots are a pain and the clearance between my toe and the shift lever is too narrow so am looking to move the peg up a bit. I think I can see how to do it but don't want to do it unless I'm certain.



Ignore the circled part, would I just loosen bolt 16 and move the whole assemble up on that pivot point and lock it all back down again?
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:03 AM   #2
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Yes, you can change the height of the shifter (Not the peg. The peg is where your foot rests) by puling #16, taking the assembly off the spline, and reinstalling it at a different angle. OTOH, you may want to try getting used to your new boots. They'll work better once they get broken in.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:19 AM   #3
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Thanks, I've done it now. The boots are broken in, used them on my old bike but they have a torsion system on them which restricts certain movements and one of them is a bit much so need a bit more clearance! Will see if it's done any good now!
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:49 AM   #4
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I usually just loosen 10 and 13, then twist 8 to change the position of the lever.
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Old 04-04-2010, 09:30 AM   #5
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I usually just loosen 10 and 13, then twist 8 to change the position of the lever.
thats risky cause you're actually changing the position of the selector fork instead of the controls. if you adjust at 16 the selector fork stays in its neutral position and you move the controls around it, whereas if you adjust 10 and 13 you force the selector fork to move closer to the gear up or down, depending on which direction you go. may cause problems with selection in the long run
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:40 AM   #6
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thats risky cause you're actually changing the position of the selector fork instead of the controls. if you adjust at 16 the selector fork stays in its neutral position and you move the controls around it, whereas if you adjust 10 and 13 you force the selector fork to move closer to the gear up or down, depending on which direction you go. may cause problems with selection in the long run
I think your mistaken. Shortening or lengthening the rod will do nothing with 16 or the selector fork, it will just pull the lever up or down, since the lever is free to rotate. Where as changing 16 on the splines could cause issues with not having enough throw to complete a shift.
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:14 AM   #7
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I think your mistaken. Shortening or lengthening the rod will do nothing with 16 or the selector fork, it will just pull the lever up or down, since the lever is free to rotate. Where as changing 16 on the splines could cause issues with not having enough throw to complete a shift.
yes the lever is free to rotate.....left and right not up and down, its a rose joint not a universal joint. by making 8 longer you move up and down, not left and right. Its directly connected to the shifter; by effectively lenghtening or shortening the length of rod number 8 (by turning 10 and 13) , the gear selector which number 16 is attached to will turn as a result.

I'm not mistaken, think about it its simple physics, cause and effect. you lengthen rod 8 you must compensate by loosening 16 and turning it to allow for the extra movement you have just introduced..

if you only adjust the lever at 16 and change the splines left or right you change how much movement your foot must make to complete a proper selection and thats all.

if you only adjust it at rod 8 you then as a result of this, change the position of the selector inside the gearbox and the movement required to select a gear then becomes dependant on how much ths selector is moved inside the box aswell as how much your foot needs to move.
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Old 04-04-2010, 12:59 PM   #8
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yes the lever is free to rotate.....left and right not up and down, its a rose joint not a universal joint. by making 8 longer you move up and down, not left and right. Its directly connected to the shifter; by effectively lenghtening or shortening the length of rod number 8 (by turning 10 and 13) , the gear selector which number 16 is attached to will turn as a result.

I'm not mistaken, think about it its simple physics, cause and effect. you lengthen rod 8 you must compensate by loosening 16 and turning it to allow for the extra movement you have just introduced..

if you only adjust the lever at 16 and change the splines left or right you change how much movement your foot must make to complete a proper selection and thats all.

if you only adjust it at rod 8 you then as a result of this, change the position of the selector inside the gearbox and the movement required to select a gear then becomes dependant on how much ths selector is moved inside the box aswell as how much your foot needs to move.
I am thinking about it as simple physics, and I'm wondering how you are coming to the conclusion you are. By shortening the shift rod it will pull either the shift pedal up or the shift level down, not both. Since the lever has a detent in between gears, and the pedal is free to rotate, it will pull the pedal up, and the shift lever will remain in the exact same position. If you don't believe me, go loosen 10 and 13 on your bike and shorten the shift rod. Btw, I'm not trying to be a pita.
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:17 PM   #9
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I am thinking about it as simple physics, and I'm wondering how you are coming to the conclusion you are. By shortening the shift rod it will pull either the shift pedal up or the shift level down, not both. Since the lever has a detent in between gears, and the pedal is free to rotate, it will pull the pedal up, and the shift lever will remain in the exact same position. If you don't believe me, go loosen 10 and 13 on your bike and shorten the shift rod. Btw, I'm not trying to be a pita.
I know you're not tryin to be a PITA, don't worry and i'm quite stubborn when i think i'm right. I can see your point about the detent on the shifter making the foot lever move before the shifter but the bolt at 13 and 10 (i think) have opposing threads, i.e one is righty tighty and the other is lefty tighty, wouldnt that mean that as one shortens, the other consequentially lenghtens, thus exerting a force? i acutally would go adjust it on my bike just to see but it's about 100 mile away from me right now! I'd be interested to see exactly how this works to put it to bed!

Don't feel youre bein a PITA, i could be wrong, it happened once before!!!
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:31 PM   #10
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OK, I'll make a little video for you this afternoon. And you are right about the threads, they are designed so that loosening the lock nuts allows you to spin the rod one way to make it longer, and the other way to make it shorter, so that you don't have to take the rod off the bike to adjust its length. There's really no force to exert, because the pedal doesn't have a detent or anything like that, so it will just go wherever it needs to based on the length of the rod. Like I said, I'll make a video when I get home from going to lunch and a movie with my lady.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:26 PM   #11
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yes the lever is free to rotate.....left and right not up and down, its a rose joint not a universal joint. by making 8 longer you move up and down, not left and right. Its directly connected to the shifter; by effectively lenghtening or shortening the length of rod number 8 (by turning 10 and 13) , the gear selector which number 16 is attached to will turn as a result.

I'm not mistaken, think about it its simple physics, cause and effect. you lengthen rod 8 you must compensate by loosening 16 and turning it to allow for the extra movement you have just introduced..

if you only adjust the lever at 16 and change the splines left or right you change how much movement your foot must make to complete a proper selection and thats all.

if you only adjust it at rod 8 you then as a result of this, change the position of the selector inside the gearbox and the movement required to select a gear then becomes dependant on how much ths selector is moved inside the box aswell as how much your foot needs to move.
Might I ask what you are smoking? By loosening the lock nuts and only rotating the connecting rod to move the pedal's position, you are neither increasing or decreasing the pedal throw to change gears. The only thing you're doing is changing the pedals resting position, which adds no more or less stress to components inside the transmission. The lever is there to add leverage and change the angle of the upward/downward strokes. Changing the lever alone would cause issues, as it can add resistance to the upward/downward strokes making it much more difficult to change gears, though it will only come at a cost to your foot and not internal components in the gear box.

The throw to change gears will always be the same distance, no matter what you change with the connecting rod. The only thing that can be done that will increase or lengthen that throw will be changing out the lever to a longer or shorter one, which will change the radius of where the connecting rod connects to in relation to the radius of the shifter spline.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:49 PM   #12
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Might I ask what you are smoking? By loosening the lock nuts and only rotating the connecting rod to move the pedal's position, you are neither increasing or decreasing the pedal throw to change gears. The only thing you're doing is changing the pedals resting position, which adds no more or less stress to components inside the transmission. The lever is there to add leverage and change the angle of the upward/downward strokes. Changing the lever alone would cause issues, as it can add resistance to the upward/downward strokes making it much more difficult to change gears, though it will only come at a cost to your foot and not internal components in the gear box.

The throw to change gears will always be the same distance, no matter what you change with the connecting rod. The only thing that can be done that will increase or lengthen that throw will be changing out the lever to a longer or shorter one, which will change the radius of where the connecting rod connects to in relation to the radius of the shifter spline.
I thought that by adjusting only the connecting rod that it would move both the foot pedal and the splined lever thus putting pressure on the resting position of the gear selector at the splines. If i'm wrong i stand corrected guys. (oh dear look what ive started!!)
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:52 PM   #13
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I thought that by adjusting only the connecting rod that it would move both the foot pedal and the splined lever thus putting pressure on the resting position of the gear selector at the splines. If i'm wrong i stand corrected guys. (oh dear look what ive started!!)
It will only move the foot peg. That's the cool thing about a series of circles. Not all will move at once.
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:47 PM   #14
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Demented explained it more clearly than I did, but that's what I was getting at.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:20 AM   #15
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you unscrew 13 and 10 then move 8 (BAR, CHANGE 90065-MEE-000) down or up thats where it gets the name, the threads on 13 and 10 are opp. threads as stated above so when u screw it down the shifter moves down and up shifter moves up thats why the threads are so long on 10 and 13 there made to move to fit your foot if you move 2 on the splines 2 much more than 2 or 3 notches it will jack up the angle and wont shift right at all!!!
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Old 04-09-2010, 02:13 PM   #16
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I'm going to be performing this in the next couple of days.

For clarification, the optimal method of adjusting the lever height was decided to be by using 10 and 13 (leaving 16 completely alone), correct?
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Old 04-09-2010, 03:40 PM   #17
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Yes, don't touch 16.
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Old 05-12-2010, 07:45 AM   #18
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I agree, don't touch 16 as you will see a little dot on #2 which aligns with the slot on #16.
My concern is by changing the height of the gear lever to make more room for my new boots it will mean I need to raise my foot to get on top of the lever to change down.
Has anyone had a problem changing down with normal shift after raising the gear lever to make room for new boots, using the correct way that is, i.e. undo the lock nuts of the shift rod and turn the rod to either raise or lower the gear lever?
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:26 PM   #19
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I fiddled with the height using 16 but it's best where it is, you can't move it by small enough amounts of movement using the spline, but then mine wont come free the other way so I've left it as is for now.
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:51 AM   #20
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They are probably reverse threads. Are you sure you weren't tightining instead of loosening?
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Old 03-19-2012, 05:41 PM   #21
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quick video

its not on Honda but still explains the same thing

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Old 03-19-2012, 05:42 PM   #22
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krrish, i think this thread has been dead for a while now..
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:59 AM   #23
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Yes tenjin but I search often and I thought it might help people who will be searching in future


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Old 05-03-2012, 03:18 PM   #24
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OTOH, you may want to try getting used to your new boots. They'll work better once they get broken in.



I remember when I first got my boots, it was pretty hard to upshift. It got a lot easier as the boots got broken in and I got more used to riding with them.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:18 PM   #25
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Yes tenjin but I search often and I thought it might help people who will be searching in future


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Old 12-06-2012, 07:50 AM
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