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07-13 RR Modifications Modifications to the '07- to 013 600RR

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Old 12-08-2012, 10:42 AM   #1
brmoore
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resistors

The common ones I'm seeing online are 6ohm resistors and usually 25W, but I've found 6ohm and 50W resistors, those ok? better?

(for fast flashing indicators, rear only)
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:44 AM   #2
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Standard filament bulb draws approx 21W ... you will want a resistor in that ball park. A 50Ẅ may draw more current and cause the light too still flash fast as the relay will think the bulb has blown
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Old 12-08-2012, 10:55 AM   #3
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that contradicts what im reading saying higher watts does nothing(more weight as usually bigger but less heat), surely its the ohms of resistance that is critical? I've read people favour 10 ohms but all im finding is 6

the LED indicator is 1W so am i 'resisting' the other 20W then? I'm not an electrician but i'm reasonably intelligent, i'd rather wire resisters in and make these all plug and play than start doing flash relays for the whole bike

here was the advert on the 50W ones:

"Important! these are rated @ 50W /6ohm which is the recommended rating over inferior 25w Alternatives"
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:14 AM   #4
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I am out and about at the mo and so didn fully understand the question. Did your nanos not come with resistors if thats the route you are taking though? They will still do the job.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kritip View Post
Standard filament bulb draws approx 21W ... you will want a resistor in that ball park. A 50Ẅ may draw more current and cause the light too still flash fast as the relay will think the bulb has blown
A resistor only draws as much current as it's value (in Ohms) related to the voltage of the circuit (Ohms law). A higher wattage rating will not draw and more current.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #6
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don take this the wrong way brmoore, but reasonable intelligence would say just get a relay, which is plug and play, no soldering etc and when you get rid of the bike just take it out and sell it.

the plug is under the seat and takes 2 minutes to install and then you can do whatever you want to any indicator on the bike. coupled with the issue your having regarding what resistor, just save yourself the headache and get a relay for under 10.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:20 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by kevinSD View Post
A resistor only draws as much current as it's value (in Ohms) related to the voltage of the circuit (Ohms law). A higher wattage rating will not draw and more current.
Already noted above, stupid moment
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:35 AM   #8
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if you get the relay like ahmed says your covered all ways if atm youve got standard oem up front and led at the rear youll be sorted,if you add leds up front later youre still sorted if you go 3 leds and one oem for any bizarre reason youll still be sorted and if you resort to oem all round youll still be sorted with the new relay or like ahmed says you could then sell it plug the oem relay back in and flog the new one,and no one would know anything been changed since it left the showroom
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:59 AM   #9
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hmmm...i thought this relay involved splicing, i knew they were good 03-06 but i thought there was a change for 07+(on euro bikes) that made it harder, so what is the exact one that is plug and play for a 2008 uk spec bike?

I wanted better resisters than oxfords as they're universal i wanted the best, lowest heat best resisting ones...since i consider soldering a permanent thing i don't want to have to touch again rather than having to redo it if a resistor burns itself out etc

also is it:

Part 12: RELAY COMP., WINKER (MITSUBA) **I'm assuming this one and that it's 4-pin**
or
Part 13: SUSPENSION, WINKER RELAY (MITSUBA)
or
Part 14: RELAY ASSY., POWER (MICRO ISO 4P)

that i'm replacing?



Edit: nevermind found out is it part 12, and I've found a new one in the exact same shape/color etc that will sort the indicators :)
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:03 PM   #10
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ye part 12 is the one
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Old 12-08-2012, 07:28 PM   #11
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Usually I would recommend getting an Acumen Relay as they are they awesome and adding resisters to everything is a giant pain in the ass.

However Acumen have recently been taken over by some w4nkers called Acutrac who no longer list 95% of the products.... so you'll have to search around a bit for them - perhaps just hit Tripage up :P

If you do manage to find an Acumen relay however, I recommend getting the one with built in indicator alarm.

It starts beeping when you forget to turn your indicators off after a set period of time.

It's good stuff.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:18 PM   #12
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ye mine is an acumen,mine doesnt have the warning part when you leave the indicators on though,thats the relay with the 2 extra wires coming out of the relay isnt it? the blue and orange i think,they did have that one when i ordered mine but was a bit more expensive i think
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:36 PM   #13
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Relay flashers are very basic things...I only know of two normal types:

2 pin, that are not for hazard flashing

4 pin, that allow hazard flashing

Both can be used depending on how the designer/manufacturer has designed it.

Is the warning part you're on about the hazards?

BTW If I you want to modify a stock 4 pin relay for LED's I stuck up a quick post here:

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showpost.php...7&postcount=60
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:46 PM   #14
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The power rating on resistors (1W, 25W, 50W ect.) depends on your load. It is to prevent high power circuits from frying the resistors. For example, if your load draws 25W and you use a 1W resistor, that resistor would burn. You must use a resistor that has a higher power rating than your load.
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Old 12-12-2012, 07:30 PM   #15
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Is this what you're needing?

http://tripageled.com/store/index.ph...&product_id=58
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Old 12-12-2012, 10:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bizzle View Post
The power rating on resistors (1W, 25W, 50W ect.) depends on your load. It is to prevent high power circuits from frying the resistors. For example, if your load draws 25W and you use a 1W resistor, that resistor would burn. You must use a resistor that has a higher power rating than your load.
Your resistor is the load. The power it dissipates is the product of the voltage applied to it and the current going through it. If the power rating of the resistor is lower than the power you are forcing it to dissipate then you have a problem.

The resistors put on to indicators can quite happily be rated to 25W, as at 6 ohms and 14.5V it will only be dissipating the 35W whilst power is applied. At a duty cycle of 50% that takes the average power dissipation to 17.5W, which is well below what it's rated to.

A 50W resistor won't get as hot though as the larger surface area dissipates the heat much faster...
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Old 12-13-2012, 06:10 AM   #17
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A nice bit of trivia for everyone, without a relay the indicators flash fast left and right on their own, but hazards flash normal rate...weird

still no relay im thinking it must arrive today, i'll plug it in and see how well it works when it comes, as my indicators can move up or down where i put them, nobody knows the exact angle an indicator is supposed to point by any chance lol? I've made them point kind of where the brake light is shining and made them both level, stock indicators don't have this problem you can only put them one way, haven't ridden with the new ones either hope they don't move with the bumps of the road...they can't move side to side obviously but im hoping they don't change angle on harsh bumps, i doubt it though they're really small and light
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:26 AM   #18
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A nice bit of trivia for everyone, without a relay the indicators flash fast left and right on their own, but hazards flash normal rate...weird

still no relay im thinking it must arrive today, i'll plug it in and see how well it works when it comes, as my indicators can move up or down where i put them, nobody knows the exact angle an indicator is supposed to point by any chance lol? I've made them point kind of where the brake light is shining and made them both level, stock indicators don't have this problem you can only put them one way, haven't ridden with the new ones either hope they don't move with the bumps of the road...they can't move side to side obviously but im hoping they don't change angle on harsh bumps, i doubt it though they're really small and light
The thing that causes the flash rate to change is the 'burnt out bulb' indicator, if you have your hazards on it's generally because something is wrong so you want them to flash the normal rate they are supposed to so that you get noticed... you don't want them staying on, hence the BoB function doesn't work on hazards.

And yep, in line with the brake light sounds good...
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:01 PM   #19
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Just save yourself the hassle and get a P+P relay. It's like $15, WAY less work and easily reversible.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:06 PM   #20
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A nice bit of trivia for everyone, without a relay the indicators flash fast left and right on their own, but hazards flash normal rate...weird
Without a relay!!!!!

You mean without the resistors?

It def should not work without the relay fitted at all? Surely?
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:31 PM   #21
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ok so i plugged the flasher relay in(they made the top cap the wrong way around but no really a massive issue cant reverse their mistake because of they way they've made some clips slightly offset), worked for a bit but now none of the indicators work when i tried again????

tried putting the oem relay back on and still nothing, wtf??

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Old 12-13-2012, 02:37 PM   #22
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Take pictures of your wiring, the relays, both of them, and where you eplaced them.

As above it won't flash if you remove the relay.

What is the top cap?

I'd imagine a fuse has popped if nothing works, but thats probably don't to a wiring issue or doing something silly
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:44 PM   #23
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i've never run it without a relay what i was referring to earlier was running the stock relay and no resisters you can forget about that nothing to do with what im doing now

wiring is all like stock, all in the same place, all connected the same way as per stock using stock clips, already checked the fuses when this happened they're fine

the cap was just a different way to stock its plastic(the peice where it connects, remember the relay i said was same shape as stock) it won't affect the circuit in anyway

its not the switches the headlight etc all works and all that wiring is fine so it's between relay and battery and indicators, and my bike is kept on a honda optimate so i doubt its the battery which puts it down to indicators or relay and the indicators were fine just before

I'm wondering about that 'control box' that oxford eyeshot nano's come with...that cant be it can it? do i need it with a different relay? reason i dont think its the indicator heads themselves as the stock front indicators arnt coming on now either so im thinking its the relay area's maybe resistors are easier

something that may help if anyone can sort this is...my heated grips arn't coming on either and there would be under competition whenever high beam was on...so maybe its current? maybe I can't have heated grips and LED signals?
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Old 12-13-2012, 02:54 PM   #24
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what happens when you plug your oem relay back in,do you get what you were getting before,fast flash rate or do you now get nothing with the oem relay either
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:06 PM   #25
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what happens when you plug your oem relay back in,do you get what you were getting before,fast flash rate or do you now get nothing with the oem relay either
nothing at all now...but once fully charged again i'll try again then if it works i know its on the current etc side
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:17 PM   #26
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you shouldnt need to wait for anything to charge,just plug your optimate in if your worried about there not been much charge
with the oem relay you have to turn your ignition on to get your indicators to work (if they will work of course)
but with your aftermarket relay you should not have to turn your ignition on and just by pressing the indicator switch all 4 should come on or left or right
with my aftermarket relay i do not need to turn ignition on
i realise if you have had your ignition turned on for 15-20 mins without bike running chances are its flattened battery,it dosent take long to go flat with ignition on
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:20 PM   #27
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plug optimate in,plug aftermarket relay in,turn indicator switch on,if you dont get any indicators coming on youve blown a fuse (i would have thought)
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:23 PM   #28
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you shouldnt need to wait for anything to charge,just plug your optimate in if your worried about there not been much charge
with the oem relay you have to turn your ignition on to get your indicators to work (if they will work of course)
but with your aftermarket relay you should not have to turn your ignition on and just by pressing the indicator switch all 4 should come on or left or right
with my aftermarket relay i do not need to turn ignition on
i realise if you have had your ignition turned on for 15-20 mins without bike running chances are its flattened battery,it dosent take long to go flat with ignition on
lets hope it was having the ignition on because the fuse looks fine which means worse...haha i cant deal with worse
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:19 PM   #29
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Did you get the polarity of the wiring correct on the LED's?

The control box is just a 1W resistor.....it will be fine.

Pictures really will help. If all you have done is as you describe it will work. I think you've done something wrong without realising.

It won't be the battery if other bits and bobs like lights work, or it starts.
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Old 12-13-2012, 04:21 PM   #30
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lets hope it was having the ignition on because the fuse looks fine which means worse...haha i cant deal with worse
It won't be worse, or certainly shouldn't be....the fuse should and will protect from a high current wire melting situation. The circuit fot the LED's will be pretty damn basic. Not much too go wrong.
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