while riding does the chain move up and down in the area between the sprockets? my bro was driving besides me and told me it seemed strange to him that the chain had so much movement in it....
i believe some is normal..? but not sure how much...
my chain, if anything, is on the tight end... so its def. not loose.
Chain slack is required to prevent premature wear.
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3. To measure the chain slack, find the midpoint between the countershaft and rear sprockets. Press down on the chain slightly to make sure it's at its lowest point. Align a tape measure between two rivets on a link. While holding the tape measure steady, push the chain up as far as it will go. Read the measurement between the same two rivets. Now, consult the owner's manual for the range of proper adjustment. Even if the measurement checks out OK, turn the rear wheel and measure the chain in two or three more places to make sure it doesn't have any stuck links or uneven stretching. If the chain has dramatically looser or tighter sections, you will need to replace it.
New chains are going to stretch for a bit. Check it weekly-ish depending on how much you ride.
But yes, as you accelerate and decelerate or shift your chain will move up and down a bit. If its so much that its constantly making contact with your swingarm then it might be a bit too loose.
Yes, your chain will move around a good bit. You don't want it on the tight side either as you'll destroy it. I would set it on the loose side of the oem specs.
Also chains don't stretch. They are steel. Steel doesn't stretch and if you think it does go buy 1" of steel and tie one end to something that won't move and the other end to a 4 wheeler, bike, etc and try and stretch it. When a chain "stretches" as people say what actually happens is the plates dig into the pins and wear it out thus giving you slop. It's not stretching but the parts are digging into each other and creating slop. You're wearing out your chain and destroying it, not stretching it.
As your suspension in the rear compresses and raises the slack in the chain will change thus making it look like it's flopping up and down. If you tighten your chain too much your suspension can't work as it compresses and tightens the chain you'll be pulling on the front sprocket very hard. You don't want a chain too loose, but if you have to be on the loose side or the tight side, you would rather is be on the loose side then the tight side.
Set it on the loose side of the specs and you'll be fine.
Yes, your chain will move around a good bit. You don't want it on the tight side either as you'll destroy it. I would set it on the loose side of the oem specs.
Also chains don't stretch. They are steel. Steel doesn't stretch and if you think it does go buy 1" of steel and tie one end to something that won't move and the other end to a 4 wheeler, bike, etc and try and stretch it. When a chain "stretches" as people say what actually happens is the plates dig into the pins and wear it out thus giving you slop. It's not stretching but the parts are digging into each other and creating slop. You're wearing out your chain and destroying it, not stretching it.
As your suspension in the rear compresses and raises the slack in the chain will change thus making it look like it's flopping up and down. If you tighten your chain too much your suspension can't work as it compresses and tightens the chain you'll be pulling on the front sprocket very hard. You don't want a chain too loose, but if you have to be on the loose side or the tight side, you would rather is be on the loose side then the tight side.
Set it on the loose side of the specs and you'll be fine.
Im not saying you're wrong as I have never actually got the measurement tools out to confirm it, but when I have worn out chains in the past If you try and match the "stretched" chain to a new sprocket I found that the pins did not line up with the grooves and it definitely appeared to have longer spacing between pins than it originally did. Maybe Im just seeing it wrong but Im always up for a good debate about trivial bike knowledge.
Okay, the chain "stretch" that i'm talking about isn't the steel actually getting longer.
A new chain will "relax" about half an inch or so in the first few hundred miles ridden. this is true with all new chains, be it for a bicycle or motocycle. This happens as a new (and stiff) chain's links become a little broken-in and start to sag a little bit. There's no real way to eliminate this out of a new chain, other than running it over two sprockets.
Like motomummy mentioned above, over-tightening your chain will cause unneccessary wear on your chain and sprockets.
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Originally Posted by TRIBAL05BLACK
...But if you add stickers onto the rims the HP goes straight to the wheels.
Movement is fine if you want a chain that adjusts quick and requires little to no adjustment for the next 30,000miles after that then:
D.I.D. 525ZVMX chain, i've got one on mine this particular chain in my motorcycling career was fitted 08/09/2012. Over 1808.6 miles to date so I have a long way to go. Credits to http://www.fuelly.com/driver/brmoore/cbr600rr for tracking my fueling and mileage to provide that answer.
Hard to think I've like £4.55 off of a total of £1k spent on fuel for this bike haha
this particular chain in my motorcycling career was fitted 08/09/2012. Over 1808.6 miles to date so I have a long way to go. Credits to 
