I've noticed a recurring problem with my 06. Some times, usually after riding and parking the bike in the garage, when I move the handle bars to the left, just before full lock, the electrics cut then come back on.
This causes the lights to flick off then back on and the dash to do its little pre flight dance, and if the engine is running it kills the engine. It hasn't been a major issue but I have had it happen after pulling out of a tight junction, which is a little worrying.
Annoyingly I cant replicate it every time. I have had it happen when starting the bike cold in the morning, but more often after riding it home. I made it do it three times in a row this evening but now it wont do it no matter how many times I sit there moving the bars.
If I had to guess I would say it has something to do with the steering lock, and maybe the HISS as it seems to happen around that sweet spot when the steering lock can be applied.
I've searched the net for anyone having this problem but some up with nothing. Any one got ANY ideas?
I got this after I hit a particularly big pot hole. it was a big enough hit to knock something loose at the ignition, so anytime I turned the bars left, it would break the connection & kill the engine. I got it fixed by a mechanic as I was fairly new to electrics back then
I second the ignition. Check those wires first.
Get a schematic, get a multimeter (or a voltage meter with A/C), and start running A/C and continuity tests on each ignition wire until you find the problem child :P
If none, rinse lather repeat with other wires that are affected by steering? Idunno Good luck!
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I know sod all about electrics. If I get a multi meter, what would I be looking for on the wire? Low voltage? Also wouldn't I have to have the wire in the broken state, to find the issue, otherwise the wire might be fine when the bars are straight?
Yes you would want the problem to be occuring when you test.
Switch the multimeter to read DC (sorry i said AC last post...ac is house or powerlines...batteries (like your bike) are DC-direct current)
Then ground the ground wire to your frame somewhere, and start sticking the red probe into wires that move with your tree (like ignition wires)
...this is where you need a schematic to know which wires should be giving a current...usually atleast 12 volts
So I've managed to locate the problem, when I move Tue set of wired that goes from the ignition under the tank I was able to replicate the problem. So I set about removing the tank cover.
What a PITA. Basically I couldn't unhook the wing panels that connect the tank to the side fairing. I undid the screw and popped the little black screw but what is the technique to unhook the wing (correct term?) From the tank?
I gave up after half an hour of trying, and I couldn't replicate the original problem by moving the wires. I'm sure it will he back though. If I could just get the tank off I could get in and have a look at those wires.
I cannot comment on how to remove tank (never done it), but I'm sure there are threads here with instructions for tank removal..
At least you know which wires are probably giving you the trouble. lol You could do a continuity test now....basically all it is is testing to see if the wire moves electricity. It involved quite a bit more work though...tracing wires and such.
If you do decide to do that test, have another person help you when you are ready to do the actual test...someone to hold the probes on the two ends (or as far apart as you want to test) while the other person shakes and grabs and wiggles the wire in different places. If you get any break in tone, then that means wire had a break in electricity.
EDIT: I believe a good continuity tester will also tell you how much electricity it was able to move as well.....
The avatar is my other ride.
Last edited by nurdie; 12-13-2012 at 08:04 AM.
The Following User Says Thank You to nurdie For This Useful Post: