Especially important when you're leaned over. Remember trig? at a 60 degree lean, if that were possible, (can't remember) the suspension would have to extend 5 inches to reach a 3 inch dip in the road. With too much rebound it simply cannot do that.
__________________ Current bikes: 2004CBR600RR (daily rider, to be raced) 2006 CRF450R 1973 CG150 (off road, future restoration project) 1971 CB100 (being restored) 2006 BWS50 Zuma Bikes of my (recent) past: 2004Honda Ruckus, completely built, 55mph on the flats, 60 downhill and/or drafting 2007Kawasaki Ninja250 2004Yamaha R6
CBR600RR Mods:
BMC race filter
Jardine slip on
8987 PENSKE triple adjustable shock
STM slipper clutch
Power Commander III
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The Following User Says Thank You to michaelwood For This Useful Post:
Always remember to check The front and rear together, they should be unison. Having too much or too little rebound in the front or rear will render any further adjustments useless and can make the bike dangerous to ride. Grab the triple clamp with one hand and the rear and press down firmly together, they should be compressing at the same rate throughout the entire travel, along with the same rebound speed as the springs push back up. You'll know what adjustments need to be made once you see how the bike reacts. These videos are great, just don't go tackling it thinking that's what you need for your bike right away. One major thing they left out was make sure not to continue to apply pressure to the seat/tail when testing the rebound speed! This is a problem that you may not even realize you're doing. Even though it seems obvious, it actually isn't super easy to do right away. These guys are experts and can make anything look easy. It's easiest having two people. Have someone hold the bike upright. while testing the feedback, press firmly and let off to get an accurate "reading" right away. After the bike is neutral, fine tuning can be applied for specific riders and road conditions. Thanks for sharing.
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bringing this back to life, so my issue is under hard braking im experiencing the front end bouncing up and down like a jack hammer . i have my rebound all the way hard. so should i try backing it off? also over bumps the bike loses contact with the road. i have the correct springs for my weight , my front sag is set at 30-32 with rider and i have ohlins valving. help please
bringing this back to life, so my issue is under hard braking im experiencing the front end bouncing up and down like a jack hammer . i have my rebound all the way hard. so should i try backing it off? also over bumps the bike loses contact with the road. i have the correct springs for my weight , my front sag is set at 30-32 with rider and i have ohlins valving. help please
Your front suspension is packing and not extending fast enough to keep contact with the road. I'd say open the rebound 1 full turn and go from there.
Why do you have it set full hard? I mean you can already feel it's not working.
Ha, Robert Taylor strikes again. He is the Ohlins Guru here in NZ, I have been working with him for years. He does alot of development work right here in NZ that contributes to Ohlins world wide. He is a good man and always very professional, except when discussing politics. :)
bringing this back to life, so my issue is under hard braking im experiencing the front end bouncing up and down like a jack hammer . i have my rebound all the way hard. so should i try backing it off? also over bumps the bike loses contact with the road. i have the correct springs for my weight , my front sag is set at 30-32 with rider and i have ohlins valving. help please
full hard? back off the rebound damping & how many turns do you have on compression? got pics of the front tire?
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