Lowering Front, Rear, and Kickstand with Lowering Link - Drop 2004 CBR 600RR
PART 1 - Lowering Front, Rear, and Kickstand with Lowering Link - Drop 2004 CBR 600RR
WARNING!! Use at your own discretion! Procedure: Not that simple, but effective
It is important that you measure the kickstand height off the ground at the pivoting point (top bolt of stand) while the motorcyle is perpendicular to the ground with both wheels touching the ground. This will help on calculating how much to cut off the stand once the bike is lowered. See figure S1.1
-Some technical skills
The information in this procedure requires these hardware devices:
-Lowering link (purchased for $80.00 at ebay)
-Locktite ($5.00 at Home Depot on the paint section)
-Rear bike stand
-Jack (I used the jack for my car, but any adjustable jacks will do)
-Flat head and Phillips screw driver
-Allen wrench size:aw10 and aw4
-Sockets: 17mm, 12mm, and 10mm
-Block of 2x4
Note: Safety is to be taken at all times when doing this procedure. It is an advantage to have another person working with you to ensure safety. I always have a fire extinguisher at reach when working on cars and motorcycles. I also have a cell phone and a cordless phone with me at all times in case anyhting happens. If you are doing this procedure by yourself, let someone know what you are doing, where you are, and how long it will take so they can call to check on you if you take longer.
Last edited by Jonas77; 03-27-2008 at 09:51 PM.
Reason: add pictures
PART 3 - Lowering Front, Rear, and Kickstand with Lowering Link - Drop 2004 CBR 600RR
Installing the lowering Link
STEP 03 - Attach the jack stand with a 4x2 wood on top of the stand to the bottom of the oil pan and jack the motorcycle
up until you put some pressure on it and the motorcycle slightly moves up. See figure 3.1
Note: Ensure that you do not raise the bike off the front and rear stands.
STEP 04 - The rear link is supported by two bolts (front and rear). Remove the stock link using a 17mm socket to hold the
nuts on the passanger side. Use an aw10 to remove the front bolt and a 12mm to remove the rear bolt on the driver side. See figure R4.1
Note: You can relieve pressure on the bolts by adjusting the jack. Tap the bolts out from the passenger side with a hammer. If it is too hard to take out the bolts, readjust the jack to relieve pressure on the bolts.
STEP 05 - With the stock link detached from the motorcycle, slide out the metal barrel from the stock link. You will need this for the lowering link. See figure R5.1
STEP 06 - Put the lowering link together using the metal barrel from the stock part and the metal sleeve over it. See figure R6.1
Note: The metal barrel did not fit on one of the lowering link bars so I had to tap it in with a hammer over a piece of cloth.
STEP 07 - Install the lowering link to the motorcycle attaching the front first. See figure R7.1
Note: The link was 0.5mm too long so I had to shave some off on the metal sleeve (the old school way) by scraping it on
the ground. See figure R7.2
STEP 08 - Clean out the nuts and bolts and apply Locktite to the threads. See figure R8.1
STEP 09 - Install the front bolt and nut, but do not tighten it yet.
STEp 10 - Size up the links to the rear hole. See figure R10.1
STEP 11 - Lower the jack stand until your desired whole (1" or 3") is lined up.
STEP 12 - Install the rear link bolt. See figure R12.1
Note: The rear bolt should slide in smoothly. If the bolt does not slide in smoothly, adjust the jack until it does. There is also a metal barrel for the rear bolt. Make sure that the metal barrel stays on the motorcycle when installing the rear
bolt. See figure R12.2 TBD
STEP 13 - Tighten both of the bolts to the following torque specs: 44 N-m (4.5kgf-m, 33lbf-ft).
STEP 14 - Adjust the REAR to increase the COMPRESSION and REBOUND DAMPING adjusters. I have increased mine to "full hard position" See figure R14.1
Turn the compression adjuster clockwise until it stops (full hard position). Then turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
COMPRESSION ADJUSTER STANDARD POSITION:
7 clicks out fom full hard
Turn the rebound adjuster clockwise until it stops (full hard position). Then turn the adjuster counterclockwise.
REBOUND ADJUSTER STANDARD POSITION:
1 -3/4 turns out fom full hard
Note: Do not turn the adjusters more than the given positions or the adjusters may be damaged.
DIRECTION H: Increase the damping force
DIRECTION S: Decrease the damping force
STEP 14 - You are done with the rear!
Last edited by Jonas77; 03-27-2008 at 09:53 PM.
Reason: Added Pictures
Part 5 - Lowering Front, Rear, and Kickstand with Lowering Link - Drop 2004 CBR 600R
Lowering the kickstand (See figure S1.1 for reference)
STEP 01 - With both the front and back lowered, measure the kickstand height off the ground at the same pivoting point
(top bolt of stand) while the motorcyle is perpendicular to the ground with both wheels touching the ground.
Note: You may have to put the kickstand up as the motorcycle may no be able to stand upright with the stand down.
STEP 02 - Compare the measurement to the intitial measurement on the prerequisite to get the "height difference."
STEP 03 - Measure the "height difference" from the bottom of the kickstand perpendicular to the ground.
STEP 04 - Mark the kickstand on where the cut should be.
|__/ << this is where to mark the cut
measure drop height >> | /
perpendicular to stand |/ << stand on down position
STEP 05 - Take out the spring holding the stand with a pair of pliers.
STEP 06 - Remove the bolt securing the kickstand sensor.
Note: There is a small rubber piece between the sensor and the stand. Do not lose this part.
STEP 07 - Remove the bolt securing the shift lever.
STEP 08 - Take the kickstand to a welding shop to have it shortened. ($40.00)
STEP 09 - Install the kickstand on the reverse order (Step 7 - Step 5)
Lowering the bike 3" gave a very comfortable stance while on the bike. I am 5'6" and I was able to put both my feet flat on the ground.
Riding the bike was another issue. I go over a very small dip on the road (.25") and the front bottoms out. It did not have any play on the front at all. The back was alright, but it also felt bouncy and unsafe to ride.
Therefore, I have raised the bike, rode it around and everything is much better. The bike does not bottom out any longer. The ride is not stiff at all and the handling is excellent.
REAR - 1" drop on the lowering link (brought the bike down to 1.5")
REAR COMPRESSION ADJUSTER - 3 clicks out fom full hard.
REAR REBOUND ADJUSTER - 1 turn out fom full hard.
FRONT - 1.5" fork tube raised from the triple tree.
FR COMPRESSION ADJUSTER - 1 turn out fom full hard.
FR REBOUND ADJUSTER - 1 turn out fom full hard.
FR PRELOAD ADJUSTER - Standard Position - 14mm (0.6): 4th groove from top of fork bolt.
recently bought an 03 600rr, it's all blue by the way. with stock height, i was tippy-toeing, so I lowered the rear an inch with CBR lowering link, my feet were still not flat on the ground, but felt much better. Didn't really mess with the front cuz I thought it would be enough, but today i was trying to back up sitting on the bike, i was really having trouble doing that. I'm 5'6" and can't really push the bike back with my feet. after some deep thinking, figured lowering the front should help a little bit. Great tutorial here Jonas77. will definitely try it out tomorrow to see how it feels. and does anybody have any suggestions for aftermarket seats? I heard that the stock seats are a bit wide and has alot of cushioning in it. thx in advance.
Sorry to bring this old thread up, but I'm trying to de-lower my bike and I'm almost positive my front's lowered at least 2 inches, I'm also pretty sure the rear is lowered 3".
But the front wasn't lowered in the way you did it. Can you lower it with the "triple tree" below the...actual triple tree? I don't know the name for it. It's silver/metal holding the forks. Is that another way to lower the front?
Just did this over the weekend. Definitely can be done by one person but having the extra hand for working from both sides at the same time makes a big difference..also for safety :-). Was able to do this with a bike jack for the middle and only a front stand with no problem. Awesome write up dude, thanks.