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Old 06-01-2008, 03:36 AM   #1
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Want To Paint Your Damaged Bike ?here Is How (major chip repair restoration )

So this will be a detailed post (as much detail as i can ) on how to repair ,and paint a damaged sportbike.It pretty much is the same across the board and any other minor details post a question and i will do my best to answer.Try and keep you questions in the thread and not PM's so other can see and not ask the same question.

**** Keep in mind this is the way i do it ,there is likely other ways and other products ,but i will explain the way ive done it .******

ive painted a lot of bikes and literally 26 (soon to be 27 ) RR's (mostly 600's and a handfull of 1000's ) So take this as a guide and not a written in stone lesson to do any of it.

its also not something you just jump into and expect a show quality paint job ,but its a good foothold as to certain proceses and products you will need to have a long lasting professional paint job.a lot of these steps need to be taken very seriously and you could really mess your self up and the bike so take precautions and use common sense .
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Old 06-01-2008, 03:45 AM   #2
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First you need to arm yourself with the tools and products your going to need .the only things not pictured is a booth and the compressor .

every single thing you see pictured gets used ,,keep in mind not ALL of the contents of each item is used obviously ,but you need to have it on hand.ANY paint job besides a race paint requires every thing you see and all are very important and i cant do a job without all of these things.


These are your first products you will need for the repair and prep of the pieces to be painted ,includes sander,sandpaper of various grits ,blocks,heat gun ,chemicals,filler etc.



these are the products you need for priming and top coat including clear coat,paint suit,tack cloth ,reducers,hardeners etc.



these are the items you need to color sand and polish to a perfect finish incl,polishers,compounds,cloths,pads etc.

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Old 06-01-2008, 03:48 AM   #3
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So to begin you can either start by using a degreaser and clean all the parts thourouly ,or you can do that at any stage before you start sanding anything (belly isnt being painted ,doesnt change anything)

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Old 06-01-2008, 03:56 AM   #4
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cleaned or not start taking off the decals ,use a heat gun and heat up the decals drawing the gun back and forth about 2 inches away from the panel ,try and not bubble the paint just makes more work .




use a razor blade to get it started


peel it back and try to pull it off in one piece


there is likely glue residue ,ill deal with that in a bit
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Old 06-01-2008, 03:58 AM   #5
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now you can start your repairs ,make sure you go over the panels completely ,twisting and bending to make sure you have found any cracks or missing tabs.








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Old 06-01-2008, 04:05 AM   #6
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stickied!

Thanks.

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R.I.P. Chenhan Wu aka Phatstud 05/08/1980-10/19/2010. May you find Peace and may Peace find you.



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Old 06-01-2008, 04:07 AM   #7
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now you can take your soldering iron (plastic welder ,i call mine the BCC 3000 .lol )

its an 80 watt iron made by weller and i had one for 3 years and only gave up when i got it wet.I bought a new one for $40 and its gone left on overnight (oops) and will not burn out and should last another 3 years.

plastic welding is pretty easy ,you basically heat the plastic like a tig welder and melt it into itself .You also use any scrap cut up pieces for filler pieces or as a rod to re-inforce welds.

very important to do both sides and make sure you get really good penetration on both sides and not get too much heat into the panel to keep it from warping .Also more important is to test the weld after youve done it ,to make sure its strong ,it should be able to flex much more than its intended purpose and if it fails ,do it again until it doesnt or one day if will fail under the paint and its too late then.make sure you go plenty PASt the end of the crack on both sides .



penetration


now for the other side ,weld it and then add re-inforcement in the form of another piece and makse sure to make the outer edge of the crack with a lot of material to keep it strong or it will rip in the same place under stress



it aint pretty but it will look better in a minute

for a crack this large ,dont try and do it in one shot ,tack it at both ends ,and then tack some more until its in its place and then join the tacks until the crack is fixed.
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Old 06-01-2008, 04:14 AM   #8
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now to clean up the welds ,you can use sandpaper ,pref 40 grit or 80 and a sander or by hand etc.i do it quick with a mini grinder with a 36 grit disk to get it gone fast to move on and it also gives the filler a very good mechanical bond .try and not make any new edges or cut off corners etc,you can add more plastic weld or rely on the filler (better to use plastic weld as much as possible as it will flex more than filler .)










now its almost ready for filler but im too tired to add more tonight .Ill update with the next steps tomorow .
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Old 06-01-2008, 04:21 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NesNeedsBoost View Post
FYI

This thread will be stickied and probably closed as soon as you're done writing it, bcc (just PM me and let me know when you're finished and if you want comments allowed).

I don't want it getting clogged up with posts. If bcc agrees, then ****ALL POSTS OTHER THAN MODS and BCC WILL BE DELETED***

We absolutely appreciate you doing this for us when you don't have to.

Once again, our members at 600rr.net are the greatest.

Thanks.

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coments are ok ,,keeps the same question from being asked,i just want people to see whats involved and maybe get some people into the custom scene to help sportbikes become more desireable to customize,without always being at the mercy of a big dollar shop
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:51 PM   #10
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Thread is now open to comments!
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:47 AM   #11
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now moving on ,there is a ton of pics and hopefully easy to follow instructions ,you sort of have to have a bit of experience to understand most of it ,but i think a total novei could pull it off.

next is remove the decal glue and wash the parts , i use a silicone polish remover and wipe them down ,then wash with a degreser both sides making sure to get all of the residue off.

To take the decal glue off ,use a "wax and grease " remover or a silicone polish remover and with your fingernail wrapped in a paper towl scratch off the glue and wipe down residue with cloth .





now you can wash completely and get any oil and grease or old polish off the parts ,wash everything as good as possible.




let it dry completly before adding filler or sanding
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:55 AM   #12
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now this panel is def a diff story and applies to any panel with large decals and or 2 colors that are not buried under the clear and leave a very hard line between the paint colors.

completely remove the decals and sand the entire panel with 180 grit.





get everywhere ,corners ,indents ,screw holes etc .everything .What you cant get with the hard paper use your hand and a scotchbrite pad..On this particular panel you have to fearther out the hard paint line so that it is a smooth transition and the primer will even it out.You can use a DA sander on most of it.








Go over the entire panel by hand again making sure to keep your hand flat and sand only with your palm and fingers dead flat .


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Old 06-02-2008, 05:00 AM   #13
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this piece also requires special attention ,its not relaly damaged except for a small scuff ,so sand down the scuff with 180 ,and then the entire panel with 240 ,or wet 320 front and back since its a total color change and yiou can see the inside of the upper when on the bike.




tear the paper and fold it over ,,remember to keep your hand flat








you can do the inside with a scotch brite ,its better around corners ,and mounts

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Old 06-02-2008, 05:07 AM   #14
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now sand everything that needs repair with 180 ,be very thourogh and dont oversand ,once you see black plastic you've gone too far .

Use your hand ,the Da sander ,again making sure to not make any new edges and go over the panel by hand at the end anyway




use your finger nails ,or anything else that you can squeeze into tight spots (da dump bump ching!.lol)




blow off all panels with air



ready for filler

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Old 06-02-2008, 05:12 AM   #15
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to mix filler ,get a scrap piece of cardboard and put a handfull of filler on the piece ,add the hardener .The best amount of filler to add is just a line across the top of the pile .
mix very well until the color is uniform .Wear gloves


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Old 06-02-2008, 05:18 AM   #16
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Now with your plastic scraper wipe up some mixed filler and spread it on the damage areas,the first swipe push hard to get it into the scratches and gouges



the second pass dont apply much pressure and add more than you need since you wil be sanding it flat .Also use your finger tips to lay it in areas that are tight and hard to get at with the scraper .



Do all the filling at once .this is the first stage of a few filler applications so it doesnt have to be pretty .




add more than enough to edges that you have removed or were flattend or messed with from the damage


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Old 06-02-2008, 05:23 AM   #17
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now to sand the filler .Use the DA to knock off the heavy stuff ,again making sure to not making more edges and it doesnt need much pressure.use 80 or 120 grit



always start on the outside of the filler spot and when you get the edges knocked down you can start at the middle remembering to keep the sander flat





Using a rubber block fold a piece of 80 grit around it so that you can sand round edges .



for flat edges use a hard block sanding only the 2 angles until the meet .


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Old 06-02-2008, 05:27 AM   #18
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sand down all the filler checking very regular with your bare hand to make sure you are getting the filler and the plastic at the same level and havent missed anything .This will also test all of your repairs,if they are going to fail they will fail now with all the handling during sanding








this is what the block sanded edges should look like ,they are very sharp ,so give it one quick pass with the rubber block to give it a rounded edge


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Old 06-02-2008, 05:35 AM   #19
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blow the dust off the parts again because you are going to add another filler that is a glaze putty that will fill all the pinholes and sand scratches from the first go round .

same sanding principles apply ,but try and get the filler on fairly light so you dont create a bunch of work for yourself ,and also this is you last stage before primer so make sure you got everything and your edges are done properly.

same thing with the lighter filler ,same mix type



apply to all the areas you have sanded with 80 grit and be sure to push it into the pinholes and scratches



check much more frequently with your bare hand to make sure you are getting it level and no dips or high spots .The diff colors are showing you the diff heights and what has been sanded flat or not






you can use your hand for round edges and twist and bend the sandpaper for getting inside tight spots.



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Old 06-02-2008, 05:42 AM   #20
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Now time for the booth ,make sure you blow off all the dust ,and use a tack rag to wipe all the parts down .



get out your primer gun ,** its best to have a dedicated primer only gun **
(i keep the gun clean but havent cleaned the cup in years ,its like 3 times as heavy as it should be now.lol )
With your cup make sure you get the measuremts of each component as exact as you can get .



ALWAYS USE STRAINERS BEFORE ADDIING ANYTHING TO A GUN .



TURN ON THE FANS JUMP INTO YOUR PAINT SUIT AND JUMP IN THE BOOTH .(obviously few will have a booth ,but anything will work as long as you have an exit fan and some intake filters .Garage ,plastic sheets,Shed ....anything anywhere .)

Start applying the primer with somewhat low pressure ,and you can spray quite a bit of material without getting any runs ,,its something you have to practice to know.

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Old 06-02-2008, 05:46 AM   #21
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To lay paint ,you want to use an even stroke about a hands length away from the panel ,remembering not to stay in one spot and watch you dont build up an edge while trying to add to a flat spot or it will run .

Picture it like opening a patio sliding door ,keep your hand stiff and follow the gun with your hand and overlap your applications about 40% each pass.

let it flash about 8 -10 min in beween coats depending on the heat etc.try and get on about 4 coats of primer or more ,more is ok ,but too much s a problem .Tuf call ,experience will teach you what to do .




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Old 06-02-2008, 05:53 AM   #22
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Now once the last coat has flashed for about 15 min ,you can apply your guide coat.You can buy it in a can or make your own with thinned out black base.But the one in the can is the best ,and dont use regular blakc spray paint ,it wont work and it will gum up the sandpaper

there is no technique to spraying guide coat ,just get it on there .








let that dry for a min of 8 hours and if you can leave it for as long as your can the better to give the time for the stuff to cure and settle .Unfortunately most people want thier **** back yesterday ,so you cant wait on it .In a perfect world you wold leave it 30 days before sanding or top coat.



Thats it for today ,wetsanding and top coat tomorow
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:45 AM   #23
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so now the part that means the most and will affect the paint from this point on .What you do here will make or break the job.

if you are looking for a show quality paint the steps ive already given need to be repeated and scrutinized ,but for this one its more of a regular run of the mill rebuild paint .The more effort you put the better it will be ,but the more expensive and time consuming it gets as well.

so first you need to wetsand the primer ,get a 600 grit wet paper,a bucket of warm water or spray bottle ,and a hose to wash off the residue,this gets very messy so prepare to be coverd in grey goo.



again with the rubber block keeping it flat and mild pressure



close up of the guide coat ,you want every single dot gone .The dots will show you the high and low spots as well as where you have and havent sanded.



they will disapear slowly and you want to try and only get the dots gone and not sand through the primer.



almost


use the rubber block and contour it to get the edges ,go easy or you will go through very quickly ,paint is the thinest on the edges .



you can also use your hand ,its almost as good if you know what your doing ,plus it gives you a feel for flatness and ruff spots



make sure to wash off all of this residue ,what you dont wash off will stick to it and turn up in the base coat if you dont get rid of it.



here is what it looks like if you burn through .



At this point you can throw a bit of compatible spray bomb primer on the spot and ligthly scuff ,or if your doing a perfect job you would reprime that spot properly .(spray bomb is fine in either case,depends what kind it is) If its down to the plastic its better to reprime ,if its just through the primer onto the old top coat its fine you can leave it .YOu also dont HAVE to primer it at all ,if you knwo what your doing ,but it takes more base and wastes material .better to fix with primer thats cheaper than base that costs a lot.
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Old 06-04-2008, 05:48 AM   #24
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here is an example of burning through the primer onto the old top coat .This you can leave .Again more base is required than if it was all grey so it depends on how you want to do it



because the upper is going a totally diff color ,sand the inside (back ) as well.



use your finger tip like before to sand in tight spots.This particular primer says you can go straight to top coat ,but i liek to make sure to get a good mechanical bond by sanding it anyway



ALWAYS go over it again by hand to check for bad spots and to get what the rubber block may have missed ,plus it gives you a chance to survey any damage.



As smooth as you get it now will directly reflect how smooth your top coat will be.

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Old 06-04-2008, 05:56 AM   #25
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here is something you may run into especially when wetsanding ,you may break a weld ,find a new crack etc.You got to fix it now ,or once you get the base on your screwed .here is a hairline crack i found and this is how you fix it .its sort of the same principle as before from the begining with a few less steps and not quite as hard.



so get out the plastic welder and fix it ,you will have to burn through the primer and possibly the filler ,but it will bypass all that stuff once you get enough heat in it .
do both sides



sand with 180 ,using a block or your hand



make sure its dead flat and that you havent gone too far around the damage .



get out the glaze ,if its really bad you need the regular filler and then the glaze as before.



sand it with a block with 180 or 240 ,you can do it with 320 as well but takes forever



throw on some primer ,make sure you get a lot on there ,dont worry about the diff color primer it wont mean anything in the end ,and make sure to sand as flat as before and feather out the edges ,any lines or hard edges you leave now wil show up .

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Old 06-04-2008, 05:58 AM   #26
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once you get it all sanded and washed off and checked it over for damage its ready to paint .This is the point of no return ,,well not really ,you can always fix anything even if it splits in half ,but then you have to go back to the very begining so be SURE .

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Old 06-04-2008, 06:01 AM   #27
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Its a little overkill for the hobby painter,but get your self as much info about the paint and supplies you are using ,research it ,ask around ,get as much info as you can so that you know drying times,flash times,measurements etc .It will all make a big diff.

This book tells me everything about PPg products ,measurements ,compatability ,drying times,when to sand ,when top clear ,when its too late to clear,too soon ,reducers,primers and propertys and uses ,,basically everything you need to know .
Its like a bible at 2 am when your ready to fall asleep but cant call the paint store to ask what the ratio is for something before you screw it right up


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Old 06-04-2008, 06:15 AM   #28
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So now to the booth .I started out with a 2x4 and plastic sheeting booth and it works like a damn .Its all you need ,You could paint in a old spider webbed garage if you prep it correctly and have fans .Important to have an exhaust fan and intake filters .The filters for the paint leaving isnt as important as the filters for the air coming in .Yes for the enviroment its important ,but if your painting in your back yard with profesional supplies your already being a bad guy ,so at least dont die in the process.

get a good fan and filters ,the filters will keep out the dust and will in turn be less work when you have to wetsand the clear.

So first wet down your painting area,spray the walls ,the floor ,the entrance ,anywhere dirt may be .You can do the ceiling too ,but do that waaaaay ahead of time and let it dry or you'll get drops of water which will lead to a ton of screaming.lol



hang your pieces ,some guys like to spray on tables ,or benches but i like to do it this way .Either or.Give your self LOTS of room to walk around the peices .



Use your tack rag and go over each piece like CSI looking for anyhting that may become an issue because its your last shot .Dont press the tack rag ,just lightly glide it ,or you will push the glue from the rag onto the panel and that has its own problems.



get your gun and paint ready ,remember one quart of base will do 2 quarts of sprayable material .For a full size bike in one color 2 pints is enough ,sometimes only one ,if its not a drastic color change.If its your first time ,buy a quart incase you need to fix stuff.



i like to take my guns completely apart when i clean them so no chance of a stray mettalic or lint hanging around.



if the pieces are hanging but still able to move from the air of the gun find a place to hold it ,and also use that to move the piece around ,tabs,backside,edges are good places to hold the part from flying around

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Old 06-04-2008, 06:22 AM   #29
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Gun technique is something thats a whole other issue.Its something thats kind of individual with certain principles to follow .Without getting too far into it ,because it has a lot to do with pressure,angles ,paint amount ,the paint used,the gun type,the temperature,the pressure at the regulator,the panel shape,the color ,if its mettalic /solid/pearl/candy ,distance ,etc etc.Its almost endless and pretty hard to describe them all because they all have a certain technique.


So the basics are ,gun should be about an open hands distance away ,you want to start the paint before it even gets to the panel an not stop pulling the trigger until youve passed the panel in a cross motion.......believe me its so much more complicated but it woudl be better to see it than try and explain .

One thing to keep in mind thats very important is to keep your angles of the gun the same as the panel .if its flat stay flat ,if its an angel dont try and force feed the paint ,move the gun so its always flat to the angle



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Old 06-04-2008, 06:29 AM   #30
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So as far as applying the paint ,keeping the gun flat ,the pressure correct ,the paint amount correct ,the fan of the paint etc and so on and so on .Get the panels painted .

Go slow ,you should never ever ever get a run in base .its not impossble but youd have to be either new or stupid to do it .Apply the paint in coats ,its not a race .Make sure to get all the edges and corners and get it uniform .The best way to keep it uniform is keep painting it until you think your done ,then do another 2 coats to be sure .lol








base dries dumb fast so keep the tack rag handy and every second coat give the panels a wipe to keep any dust off.there should never be dust in the base ,it dries to fast for that to happen

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