DIY Carbon Fiber Overlaying

[rsp919]

This is a "how to" for overlaying(wrapping) parts in carbon fiber. This is purley a cosmetic upgrade. There are some pros and cons for overlaying.

Pros
1 No need to make complex, expensive, time consuming molds.
2 Since you are covering stock parts you keep stock mounts, tabs, slots etc. This allows for an OEM fit.
3 Allows you to see defects and correct them. If you are making a part in a mold, you don't see any problems until you pull the piece.
4 Parts, or for that matter, just about anything can be done.

Cons
No weight savings. but lets face it, just how much weight are you going to save on an already light plastic piece. When people think of carbon they think strong and light. They forget that is for structual things like on aircraft etc. When you are replacing metal with cf, yes, you do save alot of wieght. On motorcycles not so much. It would be cheaper and alot more effective to eat a salad if you want to save wieght.

Warning before you decide to give it a go, working with carbon is time consuming, dirty, and overall a pian in the a$$. If you do not have pietience, forget about it. Lets get started.

List of items and tools you will need.
1 Carbon fiber cloth (2x2 3k twill is what I like and use) plain weave and hybrids are available also. Try to stay away from Kevlar. It is hard to cut and trim.
2 Resin I recommend an epoxy resin. I use West Systems. It is a great epoxy that can be used with pumps to make mixing ez.
3 Laytex gloves
4 Mixing sticks (popsicle sticks)
5 Acetone for cleaning up resin and cleaning parts
6 Paper towels , I like the blue shop kind.
7 Assorted sand paper 220-1000
8 Plastic cups for mixing the resin
9 Duct tape
10 Scissors (nice and sharp) and for liabilty issues I must add the following "DO NOT run with the scissors!"
11 Razor knife with plenty of extra blades
12. Rotary tool (Dremel) with cut-off wheels and sanding drums
13 Foam brushes
14 And finally the most important. Music for your listening pleasure. I find these very enlightning, relaxing, and good all around family favs.


For this write up I will use the headlight covers from the 07-08 600RR.


First scuff the part with 220 sandpaper so the resin will make a good bond. Don't worry about mounting points and parts of the piece that will not show. It is better to leave these unsanded so the carbon will trim off easeir later.


Next I like to tape off the part where mounts are so excess resin does not clog them up.


Now make a stand to mount the part on. A spray can works well. I take some duct tape, wad it up, and stick it to the can. Then you can stick the part to it on the backside.

[rsp919]

Now it's time to mix the resin. I use West Systems with 207 hardner. It is a 30 minute hardner so it gives you plenty of working time. It comes with pumps to make the measuring ez. One pump of resin, one pump of hardner. Make sure to mix them real well. Do not mix them vigorously as this will only creat a million air bubbles.


Next take the duct tape and get several strips cut and ready to go.


Now take the resin and coat it on the part. You can use foam brushes or paint brushes. I like the foam. If you choose paint brushes get the ones with black bristles. The bristles can and will come off, the black ones will blend in better. Make it ez and just get the foam ones.


You do not need to pile it on, it will just run off. A thin even coat is what you want. Now you need to let the resin "kick." You want it to get where it is tacky, put will not come off on your finger. Also, don't let it over cure or the cf won't stick. It will usually take 10-15 mins (depends on temp and humidity). Just keep checking it by touching it. Once it won't come off on your finger, yet it is still tacky, your good. I like to use these work lights to speed up the process.


While the resin is kicking you can cut your carbon. I use the wifeys scissors(hope she doesn't read this, she's looked all over for them lol) Make sure to cut it plenty big. You don't want to lay it down only to find out it is to short. I try to leave about an 1 1/2 inch excess all the way around the part. Don't cut it too large, that's just wasting carbon. Keep in mind this chit frayes like there is no tomorrow.


Now it is time to lay the carbon. Like I said, it frayes if you just look at it hard enough. Treat it like a baby bird! Start at one end of the part and slowly lay it down and work your way across. Try not to handle the the carbon to much, just make sure it is laying down and making contact everywhere. Pay close attention to the edges and any sharp curves.


Once that is done I like to take the scissors and trim it down some(not too much.) Now you can take and wrap the cf onto the back and tape it down.


Now that is done and you are happy with the way it is laying it is time to apply the resin. Using the brush, gently spread it on making sure to cover it completly. Do it in a thin coat. I couldn't really get a pic of this, didn't want resin all over my camera. Oh, and this is where you definatley want to use the gloves!

Again, once the resin is on, don't hadle the carbon too much, it will only cause it to fray and put tiny strands all over the part.

[rsp919]

Now you have 2 options. You can continue to put layers of resin on and build it up smooth or you can do it with clearcoat later. I like the clearcoat. The more resin you use the more it will tend to brown out later down the road. One layer will harden up the cf and make a nice clear part.

If you decide to layer it with resin, it will take 3-4 coats. once that is cured it will require alot of block sanding to take out the wrinkles.

Now it is time to sit back and let the part cure. This will take a while. I usually wait untill the next day before I trim. If you try to soon, you will leave fingerprints in it, just like paint.

Now that it has cured it is time for the pain in the a$$ part, TRIMMING! I like to do as much as possible with a razor knife. Since you are just using on layer of cf it cuts pretty well. Take the part on the back side and follow the edges of the stock part with the kinfe


You can also use the rotoray tool but be very very carefull. Try just using the razor changing the blade often. Keep in mind all the mounting tabs, don't want to slip up and cut them off.




Take your time and be carefull, the cured carbon ends are like a row of needles. You will think you are trying to trim the claws on a porcupine. Don't forget to drill all the mounting holes you maay have covered. I like to wait untill I am done trimming all the parts I am doing and do them all at one time.

Once your done trimming it should look something like this.


Now I like to test fit the part to make sure all the trimming is up to snuff.





That's about it for now, I still need to clearcoat all my pieces. I like to wait and do all the parts at once. Here are some more parts I have done. Keep in mind they are not finished. They need to be cleared, blocked, and cleared again. These will give you an idea of what can be done.











.

[rsp919]

Tha'ts all for now, I will post a follow up once I get the parts cleared. Hope this helps, let me know if you have any ???'s. If anyone else here as any tips chime in

[randomwalk101]

What's your address? I'm sending all my craps over for you to overlay 'em :D

[warrenjrose]

If you don't want the parts to be stuck to the stock parts try this:
Cover with electrical tape, coat with a few layers of hair-spray that'll act as a release...

[kordo]

Originally Posted by warrenjrose

If you don't want the parts to be stuck to the stock parts try this:
Cover with electrical tape, coat with a few layers of hair-spray that'll act as a release...

Only issue is the part you make will be bigger than the stock one so wont fit that well....

On the other hand I would love to try this but I dont want to ruin my stock bits if I stuff it up... this could be a good option to try it out and if it doesnt work I could take of the carbon but if it does work just apply some resin and apply the carbon perminantly

[v-tec crx]

F*king awesome right up,,, you are right it is alot of work,, but i feel like i can easily do it my self (may take some practice),, how much did all the materials come to?

[LucifeRR06]

the only cf im fond of on my bike is my jardine dual. well, since my endcap is discoloring, i might overlay it. good write up!

[rsp919]

Originally Posted by v-tec crx

F*king awesome right up,,, you are right it is alot of work,, but i feel like i can easily do it my self (may take some practice),, how much did all the materials come to?

It is alot of work, you can do it, it will take some practice. The cool thing is if there is a problem, you mis trim something, the cf is lifted somewhere, you can pry it off and start all over. I suggest doing some of the pieces I posted. All those parts are real cheap to replace. Most were under $10 from Honda new. As far as the material cost carbon is usually around $35 a yard. It fluctuates with supply and demand, but that's the average. The resin is like anything else, it's how much you want to spend. For all these parts I used 1 yard of 50in wide c/f and the one resin kit($65). The other supplies I got from Walmart, spent about $30. Total of about $130.

[kordo]

Originally Posted by rsp919

It is alot of work, you can do it, it will take some practice. The cool thing is if there is a problem, you mis trim something, the cf is lifted somewhere, you can pry it off and start all over. I suggest doing some of the pieces I posted. All those parts are real cheap to replace. Most were under $10 from Honda new. As far as the material cost carbon is usually around $35 a yard. It fluctuates with supply and demand, but that's the average. The resin is like anything else, it's how much you want to spend. For all these parts I used 1 yard of 50in wide c/f and the one resin kit($65). The other supplies I got from Walmart, spent about $30. Total of about $130.

I've heard of a website that sells the honda plastics cheap. does anyone have the link?

Also what do you use to clear these? do you just use a spray can of clear lacquer?

[rsp919]

Ronayers.com. But these parts are cheap at any dealership.
I have a friend shoot them with an automotive clear.

[kordo]

Lol but i live in australia and everything is expensive here...

I'm very keen to give this a go. Think I might try this out on the exhaust shield as a tester. If this works then I'll progress with the rest. Shouldn't be expensive to get an automotive clear put on them, would be able to hit up a painter to just do the parts at the same time as they're painting another person's car.

If I used my stock parts, covered them with duck tape or masking tape and hair spray then could I easily remove the carbon? and then if it's actually a good job just glue the carbon down perminantly?

Cheers

[Moeman]

Awesome write up thank u so much

[chrisw]

I see a BOTY brewing here....this thing is gonna be uber trick when its done. -2 points for no 80s headbanger in the cd's though LOL :icon_lol:

Very cool write up rsp

[rsp919]

Originally Posted by kordo

If I used my stock parts, covered them with duck tape or masking tape and hair spray then could I easily remove the carbon? and then if it's actually a good job just glue the carbon down perminantly?

Cheers

Not sure on that one but it very well might. If you try it, let me know how it turns out.

Originally Posted by Moeman

Awesome write up thank u so much

Originally Posted by chrisw

I see a BOTY brewing here....this thing is gonna be uber trick when its done. -2 points for no 80s headbanger in the cd's though LOL :icon_lol:

Very cool write up rsp

Thanks guys.
Oh, and it should be only -1 point as all but two of those bands was rockin in the 80's in some form.(dam how time flies) Wait! -0 points, Queensryche was in the cd player while I did the write up.

[Sinkoumn]

Here's a little trick that I'll add from when I'm overlaying parts, or for doing up some full carbon parts. If you have a food saver for your house, you can use the vacuum seal of the system to bag and aid in the curing of the parts which ensures everything sets up nice and tight. The nice thing about the bags as well is that you can reuse them quite a few times if you are doing a multi-layered part (assuming you don't hoze down the inside with resin )

Here's a pic from my exhaust guard I did awhile back.

[SchaadeS]

Thanks Rsp919... another one of those things im gonna try... might as well get it under the belt, and regret it later. Sweet right up, very descriptive... big pics. Much appreciated!

[Nikka_De]

can we see the bike when its done!!! looks sicc. and im guessin u dropped it thats why ur doin this lol!

[QuikAccord]

awesome write up. subscribed

[rsp919]

Originally Posted by Sinkoumn

Here's a little trick that I'll add from when I'm overlaying parts, or for doing up some full carbon parts. If you have a food saver for your house, you can use the vacuum seal of the system to bag and aid in the curing of the parts which ensures everything sets up nice and tight. The nice thing about the bags as well is that you can reuse them quite a few times if you are doing a multi-layered part (assuming you don't hoze down the inside with resin )

Here's a pic from my exhaust guard I did awhile back.

I bought my mom one of those a couple years ago and I was thinking about cough...cough... borrowing it. Just wasn't sure how it would work on the overlaying. Thought it might leave wrinkles in the resin. I'm still thinking about trying it just to see. When I was making all c/f parts with molds I used a vacuum setup and that is a whole nother write up in it's self.

Originally Posted by SchaadeS

Thanks Rsp919... another one of those things im gonna try... might as well get it under the belt, and regret it later. Sweet right up, very descriptive... big pics. Much appreciated!

No problem let me know how it turns out.

Originally Posted by Nikka_De

can we see the bike when its done!!! looks sicc. and im guessin u dropped it thats why ur doin this lol!

I bought the bike wrecked for a new project. Here is the build thread. Check it out. http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=105028

Originally Posted by QuikAccord

awesome write up. subscribed

Thanks, hopefully I'll have some more updates soon. Here is the thread for the carbon parts that I update. I just did this one for the DIY.
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=124318

[Sinkoumn]

Originally Posted by rsp919

wasn't sure how it would work on the overlaying. Thought it might leave wrinkles in the resin.

Yup, definitely a concern; and that is a good thing to note for what is the one trick that usually trips a lot of people up on the first few parts they do is that they apply too much resin for the 'sticky' coat. What I typically do is do a nice thin layer for the sticky, follow what you outlined, tape an all, then let it cure for like 30min to where the resin is VERY tacky, once it gets that point I pull it off of the mount and load it into the vacuum bag and pull the air out.

The nice part about doing it that way is that the sticky coat is just set enough to still stick to any loose fibers, but at the same time won't crease the resin when it dries (assuming we didn't put too much resin on the part to begin with and it completely bleeds through the carbon on the first pass). But I'm a fan of doing the minimal sticky coat first, letting that cure to the backside of the carbon overnight, then laying one more coat over the top of the piece and letting that cure. Once all setup do as you did with the clearcoat finish.

But it definitely is nice to have since you know that there won't be and surprise bubbles in the morning when you check on the part since the vacuum pulls EVERYTHING down onto the part nice and tight like!

I can't wait until I get my CF mids done! :beer:

[randomwalk101]

rsp919,

thanks for the long waited DIY. I think I'll try this in the near future with some stock plastics :)
Will you continue the DIY process with the clear coat part? Perhaps you can do a quick walk through of the clear process here without pics...
You use the aerosol spray clear coat that you can get from Walmart or so, then spray several thin coats, let them dry then sand, buff, wax??

Also, what you do mean when you say "cleared, BLOCKED, cleared" ??

[1739gvr4]

very nice write up. the only thing i see missing from the list of supplies is beer. haha

where are you getting the resin and carbon fiber from?

[rsp919]

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

rsp919,

thanks for the long waited DIY. I think I'll try this in the near future with some stock plastics :)
Will you continue the DIY process with the clear coat part? Perhaps you can do a quick walk through of the clear process here without pics...
You use the aerosol spray clear coat that you can get from Walmart or so, then spray several thin coats, let them dry then sand, buff, wax??

Also, what you do mean when you say "cleared, BLOCKED, cleared" ??

I have a friend with an auto body shop clear them. I don't trust spray can clear. "Cleared, blocked cleared"= building the surface up with several coats of clear instead of resin, block sanding those coats smooth, ones last coat of clear after the sanding.

Originally Posted by 1739gvr4

very nice write up. the only thing i see missing from the list of supplies is beer. haha

where are you getting the resin and carbon fiber from?

I got my c/f and resin here http://www.sollercomposites.com/

[randomwalk101]

Resin & CF ordered :)
Prob will coat with 3 layers resin and 1 clearcoat.
BTW, do you have to wait for it to completely harden (like a day) to do a 2nd coat of resin or 30 mins between coat is fine?

[rsp919]

Cool keep us updated with your progress. Keep in mind, the more resin you use, the more it will tend to discolor down the road. I' really recommend one coat of resin and several coats of clear. If you decide to go ahead with 3 coats of resin, you do not want each coat to cure in between. I usually wait 20-30 mins before I apply the next coat. If they totally cure they can flake and each coat will not bond as well. If you put it on too soon, it will just run off. You want to catch it in between. Keep in mind you will have some run off anyways. On the first coat, make sure you get the carbon to wet out thoroughly. But don't work the carbon too much as it will only ruin the weave. Also remember thin coats.

Good luck bro.

[randomwalk101]

I guess I'll take your advice with one coat of resin...it's just that I'll be using the spray can clear..don't have a luxury of access to a bodyshop like you do.

[rsp919]

Don't get me wrong, all resin will work, just do it in thin coats. Try to do as few as possible. I would rather do that then spray can clear.

[kordo]

Originally Posted by randomwalk101

I guess I'll take your advice with one coat of resin...it's just that I'll be using the spray can clear..don't have a luxury of access to a bodyshop like you do.

dude clear them but go to a car body shop.

Think about it, an auto shop paints many cars a day, so if you gave them the parts and asked them to be cleared at some stage they'd probably do it at the same time as other jobs they're painting and only charger a couple cartons of beer...