My bike goes into the shop next week for the blown right fork seal. They're going to replace the seal and oil in the right side.
My question is:
Should they replace the fork oil and seal in the left side too (so that the oil life will be the same?)
The bike is a 03 and about 2 years old with 10,000+ miles on it.
The service guy at the Honda shop doesn't seem to think it matters unless I'm racing. I'm planning on some trackdays and weekend rides.
I would spring for Ohlins .95 springs and Ohlins valves now, but I am saving up for the RIO GP and planning on doing the springs and valves later this summer @ Dan Kyle's. They should replace the oil and seals on both sides then.
you can do it yourself... pretty easy process - ask havoc, mabbottusmc on how to change ur oil and seals... they said it took them about 20 minutes to do a set...
You can do it yourself.... The only specialty tool is a 45mm fork seal driver. When I first did it myself I thought I would end up screwing up the settings of the fork internals but you don't touch those at all when changing the seals and oil. The only thing I did different from the manual was to add extra oil to diminsh air space in the fork tube, (reduces bottoming-out). The service manual does a good job to explain how to do it. I figure now I can change my fork oil just as frequently as I change my engine oil.
Sounds good. I'll just replace the leaky one for now.
you can do it yourself... pretty easy process - ask havoc, mabbottusmc on how to change ur oil and seals... they said it took them about 20 minutes to do a set...
It's a little tricky without the seal driver - I used a fat punch to tap the seal down into place (keep working around the seal so it goes down evenly). If you "tap" too hard you can screw up the seal. I've heard of people using PVC pipe as a seal driver - I've never tried it though.
speaking of feeling a difference, I had this old bike and I ended up doin the forks, and it turned out that there was two completely different springs in them. so I got the proper one to replace the out of spec one and it didn't make as much of a difference as you would think it would.
Interesting....
I'm guessing if they're connected at the front axle then they work as one and you can't tell much of a difference (in my case). (unless your riding 90%+ which I'm not) :lol2:
Interesting....
I'm guessing if they're connected at the front axle then they work as one and you can't tell much of a difference (in my case). (unless your riding 90%+ which I'm not) :lol2:
Your not riding at 90% plus????? whats wrong with you man. Just kidding. I would replace both sides. I notice a big difference with oil change. Mostly doing track days. If your going to put .95 in them, than you are probably heavy like myself. Maybe you could run the oil a little higher until you change spring rates
The Honda shop will split the $150 for the blown right side.
I have to come up with the other $150 for the other side (not blown)
so $225 for both or $75 for one side.
I figure I'll live with it until I have Dan Kyle install the .95 springs and Ohlins valves after April. I probably won't do track days until April anyway...
I weigh 190...
I didn't follow the cardinal rule: modify your suspension first. :Spanking:
Well yeah it is a bit more involved than an oil change, (there are more pieces)...but when I did it it wasn't as difficult as I had originally thought. If you could get a chance to see it done you'd understand. ;-)
Arggg zenodamper, you got me all messed up now. I may not ride at 90%, but I do ride at a pretty high pace 9k-13k rpm's backroad twisties. Do you think I'll be able to notice the air gap and old oil? Could I try and get away with it for four months or so? Moto GP is kinda where the priority is moneywise... lol
I am only saying; oil levels married together is a small thing... Sorry for my tone of voice; but been getting p1ssed off by someone on n'other channel (forum).. I would spend the extra 8 mins to do this, yes! But I am a perfectionist kinda promoting person. But it will not matter a whole heap, like you say... I am overly conscious of safety matters, it is well known!!! Paranoid?? Maybe...
you can do it yourself... pretty easy process - ask havoc, mabbottusmc on how to change ur oil and seals... they said it took them about 20 minutes to do a set...
Yeah for what you want you had to remove the whole front end. Unless you got a lot of time and don't mind making a mess let the dealer or a good suspension company do it.
That diagram looks really complicated but its far from that.
Quit doing wheelies and you might not have blown a seal. ;-)
I figure I'll live with it until I have Dan Kyle install the .95 springs and Ohlins valves after April. I probably won't do track days until April anyway...
I know Dan Kyle is a bit closer to you geographically, but Aftershocks (Palo Alto) will do a complete revalve for $250, and that includes inspecting all the internals too. Factor in $100 for springs (they can get whatever you want), and the cost of the blown seal, and I can't see the total price for a complete re-working of the front end, all done at the same place, exceeding $400.
An Aftershocks custom revalving may not sound as sexy as an Ohlins valve kit, and sure Dan Kyle / Lindeman Enginerring get a lot of the local attention, but the fact of the matter is that Aftershocks has many many satisfied racers in the AFM, and charges a lot less than the others.
cvlighthouse said:
I'm guessing if they're connected at the front axle then they work as one and you can't tell much of a difference
Yes, two different springs connected at the axle does act as one spring. In theory, you could get a 0.90 spring and a 0.95 spring, one in each fork tube, and you would have a 0.925 spring, if your weight/riding style dictated that's what you needed.
quasi888, that sounds pretty tempting. I may go for that when I get the revalving and springs done. Right now i just want to get back on the road and $75 sounds like my best option. Does aftershocks remove and install the forks for you too?
Even though it costs extra, it's probably not a bad idea to have them do the removal and re-installation. That way, when they're done with the fork service, they can have you sit on the bike and really fine-tune the settings. (I think you took Gary Jaehne's suspension seminar, so you probably already know how to do a lot of this, but it always is nice to have the pros look at it too.)
Since my bike is idle until my next few trackdays in February, I'll probably have them revalve my front as well.
Well I got my bike back. They did the blown fork seal and brake recall. My bike doesn't leak and has a shiny new part on the rear break. It ended up costing me a total of 69 bonez because they split it with me. I'm so glad to be back on the road! Next time I clean my bike I'll enter it in the BOTM!
so do everyone use a engine hoist to hold the bike up while the shocks are off or do you have some other way to do it. I dont have a hoist is why i am asking
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