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07-13 RR Modifications Modifications to the '07- to 013 600RR

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Old 05-04-2010, 10:55 AM   #1
bbyevo8u
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how to adjust the clutch?

i just got my 08 600rr it have 540miles on it but the clutch lever does not engage the clutch till the lever is almost out, i want to adjust it so it starts to grab as soon as i let the clutch out.. can someone help me with this

i know you has to adjust it right by where the cable go's into the motor just dont know if i should spin the adjustable lever down or up?? or am i way off??
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Old 05-04-2010, 11:42 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by bbyevo8u View Post
i just got my 08 600rr it have 540miles on it but the clutch lever does not engage the clutch till the lever is almost out, i want to adjust it so it starts to grab as soon as i let the clutch out.. can someone help me with this

i know you has to adjust it right by where the cable go's into the motor just dont know if i should spin the adjustable lever down or up?? or am i way off??
sounds like you need to tighten the clutch cable.
sounds like it is loose and you are engaging and disengaging to late.

there are two parts you have to play with.



loosen #1, tighten #2, tigthen #1

hope that helps.
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Old 05-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #3
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sounds like you need to tighten the clutch cable.
sounds like it is loose and you are engaging and disengaging to late.

there are two parts you have to play with.



loosen #1, tighten #2, tigthen #1

hope that helps.
i did this already and it helped a little bit but not much, how bout the lower adjustment??

thanks for trying to help me out!!
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Old 05-04-2010, 06:47 PM   #4
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bump for someone that can help me out here
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Old 05-06-2010, 01:40 AM   #5
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I can't remember at the moment right now, but you're not getting any help on the lower adjustment tips so I figured I'd speak up... Trial and error dude! Try adjusting the clutch cable above the clutch basket one way, go riding. If that doesn't help try adjusting it the other way ;) that's what I did!
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Old 05-06-2010, 02:08 AM   #6
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im with ^^ just mess with it.. turn it 1 way up, and see if its the right way good.. if not turn it 2 ways down..
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Old 05-08-2010, 03:58 PM   #7
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ok i messed with it today it only takes the slack out of the line witch made the clutch feel very stiff but it did not change when the clutch engages.. i really hate how the clutch does not engage till the lever is almost out then boom it grabs with no slipping :(

thanks for the help guys!
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Old 05-08-2010, 04:04 PM   #8
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this is my first RR, can someone tell me when there clutch starts to engage just so i know if this is how the clutch is suppose to engage or not?
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Old 05-08-2010, 04:42 PM   #9
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i would just get some adjustable levers. The brake has the adjustable position. The clutch does too on most of the aftermarket ones.
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:34 PM   #10
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^^ that wont change when the clutch engages just make it stiffer or looser.

can someone let me know how there clutch engages, thanks
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:37 PM   #11
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^^ that wont change when the clutch engages just make it stiffer or looser.

can someone let me know how there clutch engages, thanks
i don't know of a single honda that engages earlier. my buddy has a F4I and he always stalls because 1 he's new and 2 he can never get on the gas because his clutch almost has to be let all the way out. Just get used to it I'd say. If i even get my fingers over the clutch without pulling in the lever I'm damn near pulling on the lever and it's disengaging.
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Old 05-09-2010, 12:48 PM   #12
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i don't know of a single honda that engages earlier. My buddy has a f4i and he always stalls because 1 he's new and 2 he can never get on the gas because his clutch almost has to be let all the way out. just get used to it i'd say. If i even get my fingers over the clutch without pulling in the level i'm damn near pulling on the lever and it's disengaging.
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Old 05-09-2010, 01:25 PM   #13
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Ima say if your having this much of a problem adjusting it. Take it to the dealer you bought it from and I bet they will just adjust it for free for you.

I just got my 07 and it took me 5 mins to adjust the distance of engagement for mine. GL
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Old 05-09-2010, 03:55 PM   #14
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Ima say if your having this much of a problem adjusting it. Take it to the dealer you bought it from and I bet they will just adjust it for free for you.

I just got my 07 and it took me 5 mins to adjust the distance of engagement for mine. GL

wow how did you change the distance of the engagement??????????

yours engages early now?
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:28 PM   #15
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does the clutch engage late for you guys??

this is the only thing i dont like about the bike, it almost feels like the clutch isnt going to engage and then the last half of inch bam it grabs ??why?? there has to be a way to make to grab sooner?!
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:43 AM   #16
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It is actually adjusted correctly now. You want the clutch to start disengaging as soon as possible when you pull in the lever. That way you don't have to pull the lever all the way to the bar to switch gears. Learn how to ride it like that. You'll end up liking it better, I swear.
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Old 05-14-2010, 07:48 AM   #17
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You could also bent the clutch lever to tricky yourself into thinking that your properly adjusted clutch is now "properly adjusted".
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Old 05-14-2010, 09:49 AM   #18
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Adjustable levers do not change where the friction point is. They merely change the distance of the lever from the bar.

OP, using the two spinners that another member pointed out, adjust the friction point. If there is no available cable left at the bar, adjust from the point above the clutch cover. Is this not mentioned in your manual?

It's very common for the friction point of the clutch to be set far out in the travel. This is for two reasons: 1. Experienced riders don't typically pull the lever all the way into the bar to shift gears, and want the action to be quick. 2. Set further out, it slows how fast it wears out. Newb riders typically like the friction point closer to the bar. I did the first year, so I feel your pain. I now have the friction point quite far out in the travel.

Now go out there and adjust it yourself. It's silly and a waste of your time to go to the dealership for a friction point adjustment.
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Old 05-14-2010, 04:42 PM   #19
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Adjustable levers do not change where the friction point is. They merely change the distance of the lever from the bar.

OP, using the two spinners that another member pointed out, adjust the friction point. If there is no available cable left at the bar, adjust from the point above the clutch cover. Is this not mentioned in your manual?
This is nonsense. An adjustable lever changes the lever position in the exact same way as adjusting the cable. That is the whole point of it; you can change the engagement point without having to get out a tool. If you have adjustable levers, then you should just leave a a couple mm of space and use the adjuster. If you don't have adjustable levers, then you can leave more space if you want to move the engagement closer to the bar, and just deal with more play in the lever.

I think what the OP is really talking about is the lever distance between the clutch being full-open and full-closed. No amount of adjusting the cable or levers will change that distance. That distance is defined by the clutch basket cam (what translates your cable pull into a movement of the clutch basket) and the clutch material itself. Learn to love it or get another bike or try to machine a new armature for the cam or try some less-grabby clutch discs.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:10 PM   #20
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This is nonsense. An adjustable lever changes the lever position in the exact same way as adjusting the cable. That is the whole point of it; you can change the engagement point without having to get out a tool. If you have adjustable levers, then you should just leave a a couple mm of space and use the adjuster. If you don't have adjustable levers, then you can leave more space if you want to move the engagement closer to the bar, and just deal with more play in the lever.

I think what the OP is really talking about is the lever distance between the clutch being full-open and full-closed. No amount of adjusting the cable or levers will change that distance. That distance is defined by the clutch basket cam (what translates your cable pull into a movement of the clutch basket) and the clutch material itself. Learn to love it or get another bike or try to machine a new armature for the cam or try some less-grabby clutch discs.
I think you confused the hell out of yourself, because you successfully stated two different things in regards to one matter. Lever position cannot change the engagement point of the clutch.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:18 PM   #21
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I think you confused the hell out of yourself, because you successfully stated two different things in regards to one matter. Lever position cannot change the engagement point of the clutch.
Sure it can...all the offroad aftermarket clutch lever/perches can accomplish this. Working with kids on Roadrace 125/250/600, I run into this all the time with their small hands. You dial in a little extra cable slck and adjust the remote(usually a set screw)lever adjuster. My 600s engage about an 1" to 1.25" off the bar. Tdub
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:39 PM   #22
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Sure it can...all the offroad aftermarket clutch lever/perches can accomplish this. Working with kids on Roadrace 125/250/600, I run into this all the time with their small hands. You dial in a little extra cable slck and adjust the remote(usually a set screw)lever adjuster. My 600s engage about an 1" to 1.25" off the bar. Tdub
That is adjusting the lever position in relation to the engagement point, not changing the engagement point. Unless you are manually modifying the clutch basket and lifter assembly, the engagement point is staying the same.
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:41 PM   #23
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I thought that was what this thread was all about...adjusting the lever position in relation to engagement??
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Old 05-14-2010, 05:50 PM   #24
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I assure you that adjustable levers change only the position, not the friction point. If they adjusted friction point, then they would also adjust freeplay, which they do not. Seeing as how I just put ASVs on my bike, I know this for a fact from adjusting both the lever position and the friction point independently of each other.

Go try it out on your own adjustable levers and report back.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:27 AM   #25
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That is adjusting the lever position in relation to the engagement point, not changing the engagement point. Unless you are manually modifying the clutch basket and lifter assembly, the engagement point is staying the same.
This may just be a terminology issue. So, I will clarify what I said by defining things.

The "engagement point" is the distance between the bar and the lever at the point that the clutch is fully closed. The adjusters on your levers move this point inward and outward. However, they also move the "disengagement point" (the distance between the bar and the lever at the point that the clutch is fully open) by the same exact amount. This displacement is the exact same displacement that occurs when you adjust the clutch cable (assuming you are not at an extreme adjustment where the clutch no longer fully opens or fully closes).

What you normally cannot adjust is the distance between the "disengagement point" and the "engagement point," and this is the distance that usually leads to people calling the clutch "grabby" (as the OP did). And, this seems to be related to what *you* are calling the "engagement point," but I don't believe the world at-large shares your terminology.
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