Limp gear shifter. What did I do ** Don't tap the Shifter Arm **
My bike has 24k kmhs on it now and the chain and sprockets are getting a little tired. Tonight I wanted to better inspect the front sprocket and in order to pull the front sprocket cover off I had to remove the shift linkage. I loosened the pinch bolt on the gearshift arm and even after removing the bolt completely the gear shift arm would still not budge so I resorted to a small puller, which did the trick nicely.
After inspecting the sprocket I started putting it all back together. Since the gearshift arm was stiff coming off it was stiff putting back on so I grabbed a small hammer and started tapping it on. As the gearshift arm (#1, see below) was half on I noticed the gearshift spindle (#3, see below) was now pushed about 1/2 inch further into the motor and the gear shifter was completely limp. I then pulled the gear shift spindle back out 1/2 an inch and the gear shifter felt 'normal' again, I then pushed it back in and it went limp again (just floats up and down, makes no contact with anything).
So now this gear shift spindle freely moves in and out of the motor 1/2 an inch where as it never did before. When its pushed in it spins freely, when its pulled out (normal) it shifts fine.
I did some research on line with shop manuals and put together what I think might be happening below. I suspect the Setting Plate (#2, see below) is either bent or broken, or possibly the bolt that holds it is gone. I have no idea though, just a guess.
you now get to take the clutch side engine cover off, behind the clutch basket, there is a small metal tab that is now bent from the shift rod thingy being tapped back
replace said piece and your golden.
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DDM 55w 7k HID
Sliders
Black Vortex Rearsets
R&G Bar Ends
Black passenger pegs
JPR Shorty levers
Drive Systems Superlight rear sprocket +2
Drive systems front sprocket -1
EK 520MVXZ black chain
Arata Ti Slipon with Ti mid pipe
Pro-Bolts black fairing bolt kit
Versah RJL Brake pads
Flushmounts
fender eliminator
Pair Delete
Bazzaz AFM
oh ... durp, yea, you did you reasearch, and found your own problem, now to replace it.
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DDM 55w 7k HID
Sliders
Black Vortex Rearsets
R&G Bar Ends
Black passenger pegs
JPR Shorty levers
Drive Systems Superlight rear sprocket +2
Drive systems front sprocket -1
EK 520MVXZ black chain
Arata Ti Slipon with Ti mid pipe
Pro-Bolts black fairing bolt kit
Versah RJL Brake pads
Flushmounts
fender eliminator
Pair Delete
Bazzaz AFM
Can I ask a question, did you take the bolt all the way out of the linkage before trying to remove the linkage, or did you just loosen it? If you didn't take the bolt out, that would explain why it is/was so tight.
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2006 600RR for the track. 2011 Merida OneTwenty for the dirt!
Can I ask a question, did you take the bolt all the way out of the linkage before trying to remove the linkage, or did you just loosen it? If you didn't take the bolt out, that would explain why it is/was so tight.
edzackerly ...
the rod is notched so as long as that bolt doesnt jump out of the linkage, the linkage wont fall off, the bolt must be 100% removed from the linkage.
__________________
DDM 55w 7k HID
Sliders
Black Vortex Rearsets
R&G Bar Ends
Black passenger pegs
JPR Shorty levers
Drive Systems Superlight rear sprocket +2
Drive systems front sprocket -1
EK 520MVXZ black chain
Arata Ti Slipon with Ti mid pipe
Pro-Bolts black fairing bolt kit
Versah RJL Brake pads
Flushmounts
fender eliminator
Pair Delete
Bazzaz AFM
... I loosened the pinch bolt on the gearshift arm and even after removing the bolt completely the gear shift arm would still not budge so I resorted to a small puller, which did the trick nicely...
Yes I removed the bolt completely from the gear shift arm. I am pretty mechanically inclined and thats pretty basic stuff. It was still very tight to slide on so I use a flat hear screw driver between the groove and tapped with a hammer (Before reinstalling) in hopes it would make it slide on easier, still no go.
There was also some locktite on the bolt and that was all over the inner splines of the gear shift arm. I tried removing it but was still stiff to slide on.
The fix doesn't appear to indepth, and I have been meaning to check/replace my clutch plates anyways as the clutch is starting to feel notchy.
Thanks again.
Last edited by tylerwaugh; 09-03-2010 at 07:04 AM.
will do, i take much picture and take notes. seems very self explanatory. i also have my manual with me so that helps a ton .
also spoke with another member who did the same thing and he said it was cause of that PLATE, after replacing it , everything was back to normal. much relief now cause i thought i had to drop the whole engine and get to the shift forks. :(
Same thing happened to me. I replaced the chain and sprockets on my bike very recently. Removing it was easy as I remove the bolt entirely. When I was putting it back together my dumb as forget and had the bolt slightly screwed in. I pushed the rod in by hand and sure enough it went limp.
I pulled it back out and it worked normally. Only now when I start the bike it makes a wierd noise when leaned to the left. Everything else works fine. That noise is bugging the hell outta me so I found this. Now here I am.
I was lucky to not have to pry/tap the shift linkage when I changed my sprockets but as a precaution I put anti-seize compound on the teeth of the shift rod going into the motor so next time it would come off just as easy.
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"It sounds like a Ferrari having an orgasm"
Omg i might have done this.... While inspecting the drive sprocket i wanted to shift from 1st to neutral put the linkage on.. Gave it a few taps with a cloth and ratchet.. After something like 5 gentle taps it didnt go nd i felt not that rigid axially ...so i just pulled the linkage down to get gear back to neutral.. And removed it ?... I dont remember the the spindle pushed in.. Maybe 1-2 mm max..am i good?
probably going to happen to someone else along the line 
