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Old 10-08-2010, 08:02 PM   #1
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How to: Keyless Ignition

I'm going to write a how to for making a keyless ignition. This may cause some drama because some people seem to think this will teach people how to hotwire your bike. Thats not realistic, if there going to steal your bike they have easier ways to do it.

This is not the only way to do this. You can mount it anywhere you want. You dont have to remove the ignition if you dont want to. Its up to you. I soldered all my connections together and I would recommend you do too. Use good wire and connectors and make sure the toggle is rated for the correct amps or higher.

1. Take your tank cover and right side fairings off. You will see a brown connector on the right side of the bike. Thats for the ignition wires. Disconnect that.



2. Follow the wires up to the stearing head. There will be a clamp holding the wires in place with the wires from the right hand control pod. Remove that with a 5mm allen.



3. Remove the upper triple clamp. Take of the center nut with a 30mm. Remove the HESD linkage from the servo with 2 10mm wrenches. loosen the two 12mm bolts holding the tubes.



4. On the back side of the triple clamp the ignition is held in by two allen head bolts. these are tamper proof so if you plan on removing it you'll need to drill off the heads. If you want to remove the on-off-lock indicator, you'll need to drill those off to. Dont worry the studs will just be able to screw out with a pliers now.



5. You'll need a 12v DC toggle, some wire and lugs. I made the harness out of 18 guage wire, connectors to connect to the toggle, shrink tube and two blade connectors to connect to the existing plug. What you make will depend on where you want the switch and what switch you use.



6. Figure out your mounting point. I mounted mine in the existing ignition location. I found a washer that was exactly the same OD as the Ignition hole and had the same ID as the toggle. I used afew drops of epoxy to hold it from behind.



7. Mount the toggle to your mounting point. Make sure you know which direction is on and off and mount it correctly.



8. Reinstall the triple clamp and tighten everything back to torque. Run the wires back down the right side and put the wires back in the clamp with the right control pod wires and tighten the clamp. Make sure the toggle is off and plug the blade connectors in the two slots in the harness plug. MAKE SURE THESE DONT TOUCH. Otherwise the bike wont shut off and could cause problems. I used shrink tube to insulate the two from each other.





9. Find a good place to zip tie the wires down.



Thats it. Now your bike should come on with just a flick of the switch.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:04 PM   #2
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Someone needs some fork cap extenders.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Someone needs some fork cap extenders.

Na, I just kinda placed the triple on there to get a shot. I didnt have it installed.

Pretty observant though
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:11 PM   #4
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Suspension is the first thing I always look at now.
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:20 PM   #5
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Heres the finished product

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Old 10-08-2010, 10:47 PM   #6
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nice write up. looks good
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:49 PM   #7
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nice setup bro!!
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Old 10-24-2010, 12:57 AM   #8
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Awesome step by step!!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 01:53 PM   #9
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Hahahaha....Looks sweet!
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Old 11-15-2010, 01:11 PM   #10
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has anyone done this mod and wired it directly to the kill switch on the clip on? that seems ideal to me and just leave the factory ignition in place.
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Old 11-19-2010, 02:44 PM   #11
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Most people dont like using that switch because it goes bad so quickly
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Old 11-19-2010, 03:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Heres the finished product

Nice bike, you put up the bike already in Wisconsin?
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:55 PM   #13
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Yup its tucked away for the winter!
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Yoyo Slipper - Galfer Lines - HRC Rear Res - HRC Throttle - Woodcraft Sliders - Vortex Rearsets - Servo Mod - Samco Hoses
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:08 PM   #14
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anybody done this on a 2003 600rr? the connecting harness has 3 wires not 2 and if you just the 2 together the bike will turn on but the fuel pump doesnt
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:33 PM   #15
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From what I've heard thats an anti tamper device. Something about cutting the ignition wires and jumpering wont allow the bike to start.

Check the tech section on the WERA forum I saw something there about it
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:56 PM   #16
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The 03/04 bikes have a 3v diode in the ignition switch that drops the bike's 12v down to 9v that, in turn, goes on the extra wire into the ecu. Apparently it was intended as a cheap anti-hotwiring device, but was dropped in later years. If you google a bit for "cbr ignition switch diode" you can find out how it works.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:39 PM   #17
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http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.p...light=ignition
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:12 PM   #18
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so basically you just jump the 2 main ignition wires and need a 9v signal for the pink wire? is this correct?
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:15 PM   #19
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Yes.........
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:45 PM   #20
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i like it different and cool
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Old 03-06-2011, 07:43 PM   #21
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since any idiot would be able to walk by and flip a switch, has anybody ever tried/used/known someone whos used a proximity remote with a push button like one of these:
http://www.digitalguarddog.com/mm5/m...ry_Code=a10051
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Old 11-16-2011, 02:14 PM   #22
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how do you get around the HISS system??? i made the switch and connected it to the brown connector without removing the stock ignition. With the key in the ignition it turns on but when i take the key out it wont? how can i fix this?
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:37 PM   #23
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mine's a 2003 but it only came with 2 wires. (it has a 2005 front end in case someone was wondering)
i guess not all came with 3 wires as someone posted above?
anyway, i simply removed the ignition system that required the key and replaced it with a toggle switch from radioshack. i used the same wires and same connection to the main wiring harness. wires to toggle were soldered of course
its a track-only bike so i have no worries of it growing legs on me.
its always garaged and its always transported via enclosed trailer so i have no worries sleeping in a hotel the night before a trackday either





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Last edited by Mayo!!!; 11-16-2011 at 03:44 PM. Reason: added info and photos
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Old 02-12-2012, 11:20 PM   #24
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Would a 30A switch work or does it need to be higher?


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Old 02-12-2012, 11:30 PM   #25
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Never mind just answered my own question by looking at the wiring diagram.


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Old 02-13-2012, 12:39 AM   #26
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nice write up!

When I first did the toggle switch, there wasn't any info about it on the net. I managed to hook mine up with my scorpio i900 and it works perfectly! If someone goes up to my bike without my keyfob, they can't start the bike and the alarm goes off. Works amazing.

btw, 30 amp is definitely the way to go. Got 30 amps in each of my bikes and I've never had a problem... (knock on wood).


unfortunately, I didn't have a nice place to put a toggle switch because I have Andreani Triples and they don't have a convenient place (like the ignition barrel holder on the oem triples... Ended up making my own little toggle box (did like anything I found online for toggle switch boxes...) out of an electrical box from home depot for .30. Then bondo'd over it, painted it and mounted it onto the front of the triple.

bondo:


primer:


painted and installed:

Last edited by hoppa2k6; 02-13-2012 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:12 AM   #27
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cool simple mod but I would not put ANY kind of flippable switch on my bike for ignition as I would just be too worried about it being touched, switching off the bike and me go flying for a bit.

maybe a push button which locks, or just keep a single key and reposition it somewhere... I just don't see the point in changing it from a key in the first place :S
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:26 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03WisconsinRR View Post
I'm going to write a how to for making a keyless ignition. This may cause some drama because some people seem to think this will teach people how to hotwire your bike. Thats not realistic, if there going to steal your bike they have easier ways to do it.

This is not the only way to do this. You can mount it anywhere you want. You dont have to remove the ignition if you dont want to. Its up to you. I soldered all my connections together and I would recommend you do too. Use good wire and connectors and make sure the toggle is rated for the correct amps or higher.

1. Take your tank cover and right side fairings off. You will see a brown connector on the right side of the bike. Thats for the ignition wires. Disconnect that.



2. Follow the wires up to the stearing head. There will be a clamp holding the wires in place with the wires from the right hand control pod. Remove that with a 5mm allen.



3. Remove the upper triple clamp. Take of the center nut with a 30mm. Remove the HESD linkage from the servo with 2 10mm wrenches. loosen the two 12mm bolts holding the tubes.



4. On the back side of the triple clamp the ignition is held in by two allen head bolts. these are tamper proof so if you plan on removing it you'll need to drill off the heads. If you want to remove the on-off-lock indicator, you'll need to drill those off to. Dont worry the studs will just be able to screw out with a pliers now.



5. You'll need a 12v DC toggle, some wire and lugs. I made the harness out of 18 guage wire, connectors to connect to the toggle, shrink tube and two blade connectors to connect to the existing plug. What you make will depend on where you want the switch and what switch you use.



6. Figure out your mounting point. I mounted mine in the existing ignition location. I found a washer that was exactly the same OD as the Ignition hole and had the same ID as the toggle. I used afew drops of epoxy to hold it from behind.



7. Mount the toggle to your mounting point. Make sure you know which direction is on and off and mount it correctly.



8. Reinstall the triple clamp and tighten everything back to torque. Run the wires back down the right side and put the wires back in the clamp with the right control pod wires and tighten the clamp. Make sure the toggle is off and plug the blade connectors in the two slots in the harness plug. MAKE SURE THESE DONT TOUCH. Otherwise the bike wont shut off and could cause problems. I used shrink tube to insulate the two from each other.





9. Find a good place to zip tie the wires down.



Thats it. Now your bike should come on with just a flick of the switch.

can you re post the pics?
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http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=289081
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:34 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webby View Post
how do you get around the HISS system??? i made the switch and connected it to the brown connector without removing the stock ignition. With the key in the ignition it turns on but when i take the key out it wont? how can i fix this?

HISS is a difficult topic around here lol.

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=287273
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:59 PM   #30
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Let me know if this link to the album works. If not I'll need to post them on a different host site.

http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o...Stroh/keyless/
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Akra Evo TI - Bazzaz ZfiTc - Acumen Gear Indicator - Yoyo Stay - Keyless Mod - Michelin Power Cup - HRC overflow - ECUnleashed
Yoyo Slipper - Galfer Lines - HRC Rear Res - HRC Throttle - Woodcraft Sliders - Vortex Rearsets - Servo Mod - Samco Hoses
BMC - Hotbodies - Brembo RCS19 - Penske 8987 & 20mm Valving - ASV Levers - Rk 520 - GPR Damper - EBC XC Rotors
Woodcraft Clipons - Gilles Chain Adjuster - R&R Subframe - PAIR Mod - Cox Rad Guard - MOYT 4 cell - Factory Pro Shift Star
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