Even break wear, as far as I know. Since if every hole was the same you would not have a solid surface for the pad to go across at some point. Prob cut up your pads if not
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I'm thinking that there's not a whole lot of braking surface on them, mostly gaps. Wouldn't want that much open space on a rortor. The brake only works if it has something to grip. The mass of the rotor also absorbs the heat from braking and those look like they'll heat up too fast. I'd be worried about using the rear brake with that rotor.
well they look pretty cool,
wave rotors usually have a consistant pattern meaning its always the same amount of material in contact with the pads which is fine but this looks as though the large slots are not quite the same as the rest which will affect modulation but if your not track'n it and it being on the rear it should be fine!
right or wrong.... its nice work!
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It's hard to say on fuctionality but it looks good. Did you start from scratch or did you use a stock rotor?
Stock
Quote:
Originally Posted by carbonrrpilot
well they look pretty cool,
wave rotors usually have a consistant pattern meaning its always the same amount of material in contact with the pads which is fine but this looks as though the large slots are not quite the same as the rest which will affect modulation but if your not track'n it and it being on the rear it should be fine!
right or wrong.... its nice work!
Thanks....he sent me a pic of one he wanted to copy so I just followed to picture
Honestly, it was hard to see where the rotor was, there just seems to be so little if it.
I give you props for exploring designs and trying to find a market and looking for feedback, but what i see there makes me feel like i would be getting a spacer more than a rotor. I like that you're thinking, but the design needs a bit more tweaking.
Maybe instead of the loops going in the same direction, the alternate? Maybe cut the top or bottom of the rotor alternating with a loop here and there? I'm trying to be constructive rather than just criticizing.
The purpose of rotors like this is to reduce the friction area of rear brake. It is VERY common on race bikes to cut down on the effectiveness of the rear brake to make it less "grabby".
Most track riders/racers do not use the rear brake except when they end up in the grass.
My cousin has been using one on his race bike for well over a year with no problems.
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Last edited by 1/4milecrazy; 09-04-2012 at 10:48 PM.
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Wave rotors were first designed for off road and mx bikes. The reason was to keep dirt, water and other debris off the rotor by the use of aggressive patterns including slots and waves as apposed to the standard circular holes on most disks. The smaller surface area along with the large variety of patterns on wave rotors do allow them to cool quicker in most instances along with better braking performance in wet conditions. A pattern going in one continuous direction likely isn't going to keep the wet performance benefit though. Think of it as scraping and throwing as the rotor rotates, the pattern should be sweeping and pushing away debris. This also means that some wave rotors depending on the aggressiveness of the pattern, have been known to wear down pads quicker, but I haven't been able to notice this myself. I think the only real benefit you'd be gaining in this instance would be very minimal weight reduction. It does look very cool though.
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1/4mile,
Would you not try to adjust the rear brake mc throw before modding the rotor? i guess I'm looking at it as a street riding than track/racing.
I guess it's a fine line between less friction for less vibration and grippy enough to transfer the weight forward without locking.
I hope to one day find myself in that predicament ... for the track.
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No, because when you are in the grass doing anywhere from 50-100 mph hour you dont want to worry about regulating brake pedal pressure, if you can just stab at the brake and not worry about it locking up you can usually stop faster.
Also, adjusting the M/C throw usually moves the position of the pedal. Which makes trying to find the rear brake even harder.
I actually really wish I had one of these my last race weekend, I ran off in a 50 mph turn into wet grass, my best chance of stopping was to lock up the brake to stall the engine and just let the (non running) engine braking slow me down. If I had one of these I probably would have been able to use the rear brake more effectively.
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I grew with TheX looks good but I personally would not mess with the design of my brakes just for the fact that someone or group most likely engineered them that way for a reason, they have done the testing and prove its effectiveness. I want to know that it won't warp easily, which is one thing I would fear with reducing the surface area causing heating and cooling to become to rapid under heavy braking.
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I grew with TheX looks good but I personally would not mess with the design of my brakes just for the fact that someone or group most likely engineered them that way for a reason, they have done the testing and prove its effectiveness. I want to know that it won't warp easily, which is one thing I would fear with reducing the surface area causing heating and cooling to become to rapid under heavy braking.
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How much heavy braking are you doing with the rear brake?
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How much heavy braking are you doing with the rear brake?
Personally I don't use the brakes much mostly engine braking, but there are occasions such as people pulling out in front of you, I just see this as one time hard could warp, I may be wrong, but I will leave it to what has been tried and tested true
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My Two Loves:
2003 Satin Blue Honda CBR600RR
1967 Yellow and Primer Chevrolet C10 Stepside Pickup
2003 Honda CBR600RR - Flat Blue
Renthal Grips
EK Powder Coated Blue 520 Chain
15 Tooth Front
44 Tooth Sprocket Rear
Total -1/+2
Jardine RT-1 Slip-on - Chopped 2.25 in
K&N Air Filter
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yea yea, i know my cycle may one day get me killed... but i get to ride it first! 
i guess I'm looking at it as a street riding than track/racing.
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