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Old 10-16-2012, 03:19 PM   #1
tuck and roll
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Race alternator

Does any one know where i could find an internal rotor stater/alt. for 07 other than HRC. ?
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:25 PM   #2
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Don't know if you're talking about just a stock replacement, but here you go...

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:44 AM   #3
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Don't know if you're talking about just a stock replacement, but here you go...

http://www.hondapartsnation.com/
thanks any way, but there is a smaller lighter rotor and stater assembly that produces less wattage (fine for racing) yet allows the engine to spin-up faster. I know HRC makes one, but have heard there is an aftermarket one available . Just wondering if any one knows where i could find one.
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Old 10-19-2012, 01:54 PM   #4
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Just wondering if any one knows where i could find one.
You can find 1 for an 05-06 in my bike... It's HRC and it's a lightened flywheel with less magnets in it. The stator is different as well but visually I could not see much difference.

Unless you are racing and REALLY REALLY need it, consider the downsides before spending the money. Although HRC says it produces juice, it's just enough to power the bike at constant high RPM and it really does not charge the battery. The bike might not restart on battery if the session gets red flagged. BTDT! You will have to keep it on a charger between sessions. If you have back-to-back races, again you might not restart the bike on battery power. I even read about a pro 24hr endurance team that lost many laps when they could not restart their bike until it charged sufficiently.

There are answers to the above including starting with it still on the charger via quick release plug, push starting, running a larger capacity LiON battery, and having one of those portable emergency jump start batteries around just in case. I just wanted to pass along the cons that go along with the pros.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:26 AM   #5
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Thanks for the advice SDIVER68, although it sounds like the one you have is different than what they are selling now for the 07, which has a totally different stator with a small rotor inside the stator. Did you notice a difference with yours , or was it part of other mods? I have my whole engine stripped apart, going to refresh and blue-print with cams, springs, thinner head gasket, possibly lightened crank. Got any experiance with these or other mods?
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Old 10-20-2012, 09:09 AM   #6
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HRC is really the only game in town for race stator. The price went sky high for the 2007+ models. You'd be better off sending your crank to Falicon for the $. And if you have a lithium battery you'll have trouble keeping a good charge.

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Old 10-20-2012, 10:45 AM   #7
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Thanks for the advice SDIVER68, although it sounds like the one you have is different than what they are selling now for the 07, which has a totally different stator with a small rotor inside the stator. Did you notice a difference with yours , or was it part of other mods? I have my whole engine stripped apart, going to refresh and blue-print with cams, springs, thinner head gasket, possibly lightened crank. Got any experiance with these or other mods?
Didn't know that about the 07+. I bought mine like this so I never experienced the difference. I see TB answered you abover..he's more knowledgeable about best mods then I he'll point you in the right direction.
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Old 10-20-2012, 12:43 PM   #8
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HRC is really the only game in town for race stator. The price went sky high for the 2007+ models. You'd be better off sending your crank to Falicon for the $. And if you have a lithium battery you'll have trouble keeping a good charge.

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Yea I thought that might be the case, I'll probably just get the crank lightened. Any reliability issuses with doing this? It looks like you have a lot of racing experiance, are the mods i purposed the best way to add a little umph yet still keep reliability for the whole year. I'm really enjoying getting back into this racing after a 25 year hiatus. My son dragged me back into it 2 1/2 years ago. He started novice class on his 1000rr and I'm enjoying keeping up with him on my 600. We are both mid-pack experts now and improving. Thanks for you interest in helping me out.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:26 PM   #9
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Way too many options to cover here, but if you already have the cases split might as well send your reciprocating assembly to Falicon or other reputable builder to be balanced and lightened. If you're not into the bottom end yet I wouldn't bother unless you suspect a problem or have $ to burn. Honda cranks are pretty reliable. Cams can be tricky, its mostly about timing which takes a lot of dyno time. Unless you already have somebody that has done the work with the grind you intend to use and they are willing share their #'s to get you a close starting point I wouldn't go too radical. Duration will gain you some top end and over-rev, but cost midrange. Lift will give you more midrange and maybe some top end, but costs you rev ceiling.

Reliability is more about proper assembly and how much you raise compression. I didn't notice you mention anything about pistons or boring, but if you go that route be aware that overheating can be an issue unless you add cooling capacity. Most modern bikes have such compact engines that the cylinder walls are already thin. If you are an experienced builder you already know most of what I've said. Anyway have fun and keep us posted on your project.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:20 PM   #10
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Thanks T-bait, I am not an experianced Builder so i appreciate any good advice, and realize that you have to take any thing on this forum with a grain of salt, but you sound like a guy who wont BS someone if you do'nt know the answer. It's interesting your thoughts about cam timing, and it makes sence that a little more lift might limit over rev. I guess thats why HRC adds duration but keeps stock lift. I'm going to use Web cams, as they seem to be used by many of the builders. They have a cam that is almost identical to the HRC, but with a slight bit more lift. They give you all there recomended timing numbers, i will probably stick with, as thats what most likely builders ask for.
I also agree the build is where the reliability comes from, i have the shop service manual and will be meticulessly blue-printing everthing, but one thing i do'nt know is how tight you can get the valve to piston clearance? Web cams lititure says .080 , but with increased comp and more duration, lift won't things be tighter than that?
Any way it is good hear your family is so involved together in racing. My son and i have had some great battles, pushing each other to quicker lap times, just hope i can hang on long enough to race with our grandson, now that would be cool!
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:14 PM   #11
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Sounds like you've done your homework already. I'd say you're heading in a good direction. FYI, I've had the HRC power up kit and not impressed. Web cams, good 5 angle valve job, and some porting are better bang for the bucks. If you don't have to comply with race org rules you can be creative.

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Old 10-23-2012, 01:38 AM   #12
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Well thats it, my son talked me into sending my spare engine to Niagra powersports for a full superbike build, like i have 5 grand burning a hole in my pocket, he says i'm going to need it because he's going to whoup my ass next year, not likely!
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:02 AM   #13
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Like with me I make 132 at the rear wheel and its reliable power I dont get left by any r6 down the straights and it pisses all the IDM boys off. In the UK they run FIM rules which state you can change duration only hence why HRC and Kent cams just reprofile duration. Now here in Germany they run there own crap rules that in supersport 600 its you can only blueprint no changing cams nothing in the motor thats why I will never race in IDM your over paying to race a superstock bike. There in the US you might wanna talk with Erion racing and see what they did. But its more about the head work you get done I would help you there but theres secrets in making the power lol.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:47 PM   #14
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Reliable power, you mean a whole season between tear downs? Making that kind of power what will you expect to see on a tear down. Valve seat resession, cam and follower wear, valve spring weak, ring and cyl. wear ? The shop doing my superbike build supposedly has a few tricks up there sleeves. They add some apoxy to the intake ports and do there porting. Have a good reputation amongst the micro sprint cars running the 600rr engines, so we'll see when i get it back and set-up on the dyno. Our track near Vancouver Canada makes us run stock mufflers (bummer) but we can run full system down near Seattle. Our 600 ss class has a 125hp limit, so i'm hoping to be close to that with stock muffler, i'm sure if i have to we can dumb it down. In the US my son wants me to race with him, so i'm sure they won't mind me running open ss and open sbk. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 12-05-2012, 05:05 PM   #15
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Yeah I make is full seasons with out a rebuild. This year was different my big bora rad got fucked in a crash so the hrc rad went on and couldn't keep the bike cool enough so I eventually dropped a valve at the second to last race do to the hot cold hot cold but the bike never got above 95 but with the bora it barley breaks 85 on a very hot day like 45 on track at Brno. But I usually will do a full rebuild at the end of year to make sure she is good for the next year.
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Old 12-06-2012, 12:54 AM   #16
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Are you sure it was the higher temp. that caused the dropped valve, and not just fatigue from the more radical cam ? 95c (203f to the USA guys) doesn't seem all that high. I was running 80 to 85 with stock engine. Now with my superbike build i as hoping to keep the stock rad, but if i have to i'll get a better one. I'll start another thread to see what other racers are using and the temps. there getting.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:38 AM   #17
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I am American lol just I have a UK bike and its always in c sorry. But yeah its hot to a race bike because when you hit rev limiters when I dropped the valve I did a 3 hr endurance race at nurburgring which team America won the 600 class oh yeah. But then at the next race I was battling with 2-5th which are idm guys and I was loosing power and dropping time the as I came on the limiter she was running on 3. I have a full hrc bike cams valve springs hrc ecu hrc loom and the arrow exhaust we had to get it from a ex bss team. I don't know why but the Hondas always get hot like way hotter than the competition. I had the 03-06 cbr too same spec and with a 1000rr rad fitted and it would get to 105 and flash hot during a race. I also I run with no thermisat so I don't know maybe I am cavitating the water pump.
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:32 AM   #18
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Yeah I make is full seasons with out a rebuild. This year was different my big bora rad got fucked in a crash so the hrc rad went on and couldn't keep the bike cool enough so I eventually dropped a valve at the second to last race do to the hot cold hot cold but the bike never got above 95 but with the bora it barley breaks 85 on a very hot day like 45 on track at Brno. But I usually will do a full rebuild at the end of year to make sure she is good for the next year.
Any details you can share on your radiator solution? I've been looking at better cooling options as well. Had to drop out of an AMA race at Barber this season due to heat issues. I've had HRC radiator on an older 2005 600RR and was looking at HRC again for my newer bikes. If you have something that works better I'm very interested.
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Old 12-06-2012, 02:54 PM   #19
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Yes there is two options that I am looking into. I have a Bora that I am getting repaired but I am also thinking of getting a oil cooler. im gonna see how much it is to make one for the hrc rad for the 07 so it can fit on the bottom. But for the Bora rad there is a place behind the rad to mount it. The one from ten kate is 999.99 i believe and thats way too much. But I think the cure is to get the huge bora rad or fabur or how ever and stick a oil cooler behind it because its better to have too much cooling then too little. It happens all the time in Moto 2 you see them pull off for over heating in Qatar and its barely 25-30c at night the Hondas just run hot and heat makes you loss power which we cant do vs. the r6 and even the gsxr now.
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