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Old 12-02-2012, 01:24 PM   #1
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master cylinder question, please help!

so i have been trying to get my bike back together from the last time i laid it down...
im running into a question/concern

the last piece i need is to install the read brake master cylinder and flush the brake fluid. So I installed the new rear set and mounted the master cylinder.... now to my concern: when the master cylinder is attached to my rear set, the brake pedal does not fully spring up so that the notch on the brake lever never touches the rest of the rear set.

Is this normal? I have not filled the fluid and have not attached any of the hoses. Just mechanically speaking I would think the notch on the brake lever, which is the same part where the spring for the brake light trigger is attached seems to be there to lay against the bottom of the rear set, when the brake is not applied, however there is about 1/4 inch gap.

I hope some of you might know what im talking about without pictures since I can not take any for a while.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:35 PM   #2
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Take a snap shot or two lets see how far you got in the install and will take it from there
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:37 PM   #3
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As long as your wheel spins freely its not a issue without the brake applied. They sell springs for rear mc that provide more feedback. Are you still using the oem spring w/brake pedal?
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:38 PM   #4
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Ok so if I read this correctly your rear brake when you compress it it doesn't return fully or fast back to its original position..?

1 I would make sure you didn't bend the lever to have it rub or hit anything that would cause it to not return because there should be 2 if I'm not mistaken one small and a thicker stronger spring just behind the rear set (speaking from OEM rear never had an aftermarket but would assume close to the same) that returns it to normal position.

2 Hook up and attach the brake lines and cylinder with fluid and it should help with returning to normal position as well. Along with the springs for the lever your brake pads have springs as well so when you compress the fluids against the brake when pressing on the lever you expand the spring on your caliper so when you release those springs on be caliber should push the pads back to original position thus pushing the fluid back (brake fluid can not compress so when pushed under pressure it moves and will not compress unless there is air reason why we use brake fluid not air) so while the springs are pushing the pads back the fluid has to have some where to go which is back and thus will push through the lines and help return the lever to its original position.

But even with out the fluid it should return fairly quickly due to the 2 springs attached make sure hose are in working order and hooked up correctly along with the lever not being too bent that could be the issue. But try the fluids it should probably help a bit
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:44 PM   #5
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there is some adjustment possible from the stem on the M/C.

have also seen rubber bands deployed for the same purpose.....on (scratchy) racebikes back in the day...
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:47 PM   #6
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ok so first one is normal pic from front

second is with the gap between brake lever and rear set

third is how the brake lever springs back without the cylinder attached to the lever....

http://www.audi4life.com/images/test/P1360660.JPG

http://www.audi4life.com/images/test/P1360661.JPG

http://www.audi4life.com/images/test/P1360662.JPG

its hard to see with the poor quality. its just that when the cylinder is installed the lever does not fully return to what I figured is the normal position... Also i can not force it back... the cylinder will not extend any further.. and the cylinder is adjusted to the max length i believe

Last edited by soccermaster7788; 12-02-2012 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:13 PM   #7
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:14 PM   #8
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:15 PM   #9
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:23 PM   #10
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so what do you think?
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:25 PM   #11
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You know that the spring tension can be adjusted and that itself affects how far the lever goes down and how fast it will retract to its original position plus it affects the brake stiffness and the brake tail light when you adjust check the tail light and make the brake light is not on at all times
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:27 PM   #12
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All you got is loosen or tighten that nut at the bottom
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:28 PM   #13
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You know that the spring tension can be adjusted and that itself affects how far the lever goes down and how fast it will retract to its original position plus it affects the brake stiffness and the brake tail light when you adjust check the tail light and make the brake light is not on at all times
yeah but it only does not go to its original position when the cylinder is installed... when its not installed then it the lever goes back all the way.. so its not the spring....
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:32 PM   #14
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Are both springs hook ( top & bottom ) are in the correct holes and are the springs freely moving or not something is holding that brake lever from moving freely
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:35 PM   #15
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Does the brake lever binding on the rear set itself looking at the picture does not look like they are touching each other so why is the lever not moving freely
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:41 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Does the brake lever binding on the rear set itself looking at the picture does not look like they are touching each other so why is the lever not moving freely

well thats the problem i have.... the lever moves freely until i install the cylinder... then it will not go back all the way to the original position.... i can however still push the lever down.... so i could still break
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:46 PM   #17
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maybe lengthen the spacing between m/c and ball joint.

sounds like m/c plunger is bottomed out and is not allowing full lever movement?
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:46 PM   #18
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The only thing that holds it from going back up is the spring unless the spring is too tight to begin with ir adjusted to the max turn that nut and see what happens and while e u are it spray them springs with we'd 40 , silicone spray to loosen them up
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tary preisser View Post
maybe lengthen the spacing between m/c and ball joint.

sounds like m/c plunger is bottomed out and is not allowing full lever movement?
Excellent point as well worth looking into
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Old 12-02-2012, 02:58 PM   #20
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Excellent point as well worth looking into
how do i do this? seems like i already turned the thread to its max length...
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:12 PM   #21
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You know in general the rear brake is not that strong to begin so the travel distance of the brake lever is really not that much i would suggest to go ahead install the rear set add your fluid and see if it gets any better may be you are under the impression that the lever is not going back up because of how small is its travel down and up if you know what I mean that sometimes makes it feel like you are not braking at all I hope this makes sense
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:15 PM   #22
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You know in general the rear brake is not that strong to begin so the travel distance of the brake lever is really not that much i would suggest to go ahead install the rear set add your fluid and see if it gets any better may be you are under the impression that the lever is not going back up because of how small is its travel down and up if you know what I mean that sometimes makes it feel like you are not braking at all I hope this makes sense

yeah... ill install it.... problem is i already installed it earlier and took it out again because of this issue.... i guess ill just leave it that way... the brake still works so oh well
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:21 PM   #23
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Sounds like you need to adjust the MC. Loosen locknut turn adjuster a bottom of rod to your liking on MC. Try swaping to springs around ex. brake light and return spring
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:22 PM   #24
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Just make sure the tail light brake light is not on continuos if it is then the spring is too tight
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:23 PM   #25
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I had to adjust mine after switching to woodcraft rearsets.
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