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Power Commander install 05

40K views 100 replies 66 participants last post by  trackscoot22  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been really busy with racing, working overtime and also rebuilding my deck on my house.

here's all the pictures for the time being and I will try and re-host them for viewing when I can.

http://www.gntbldr.com/gntbldr/miscpics/pcinstall.zip

jim jr
Tools needed:
5mm hex wrench
long blade flat head screw driver
phillips head screw driver
"s" shaped small head phillips head screw driver
micro flat head screw driver
needle nose pliers
ratchet with 12mm socket and a 6" extension
another extension but at 12" to use as a gas tank prop.
small angle cutters
tie wraps (aka, zip ties)
egg container to store all the harware in
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- take off the pilot and passenger's seats
---use the 5mm wrench to take off the pilots seat.

there's two 12 mm long bolts that hold down the seat, one at each rear corner

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- now take out the two tank cover bolts

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#2 ·
- now take out the four bolts that were hiding under the rear seat



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-there are four plastic panel fasteners
one on each side near the rear tank cover bolts

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---one underneath near the rear brake fluid res.

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and another on the other side in the same spot

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- the last hardware tha holds on the side panels is another bolt that takes the 5mm wrench to remove

one on each side

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#3 ·
-then finally to remove the side panels you need to pull the front tabs out from the rubber grommets in the tank cover

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-there are some slots and tabs to pay attention to for each side panel



right side:

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left side:

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---Now the tail is ready to come off

grabbing the underside of the tail at it's widest point you need to flex the tail over and off the belly pan the tail was covering and pay close atention to not yank on the tail light wires when removing the tail.

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- take out the two approx. 17mm bolts from the front of the tank cover

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#4 ·
further tank cover removal is now to be covered




unlock the cam-lock side panel bolts

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-above them along the body line is two plastic connectors that you push the center in so as to release them and then remove them from both sides
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-remove the upper fairing bolts from both sides

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here's where the "s" shaped screw driver comes in handy
be Gentle unscrewing this plastic tab


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once the head is far enough out to grab it. do so and remove the connector

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-air duct cover removal

I grab the front and bend the pastic a little in the front to get the slot off the tab

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-there are a couple of tabs on the air duct cover that snap into the tank cover. you have to pop them out and again, be carefull

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#5 ·
now you will be able to get to the last two bolts that hold down the tank cover one on each side


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remove the tank cover now


take out the 12mm ratchet and remove the two bolts on both sides of the bottom of the fuel tank

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and then lift the tank.
when doing so aid the drain hoses ,that run down the left side of the bike, up with the tank
when raising it.


to keep it proped up I rednecked it and used a "t" handle hex wrench

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there you go, easy access to the fuel injectors' plugs.
 
#6 ·
unbox the power commander

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unwravel the pc's wire harness and feed it through the rear

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route the ground wire through the frame while the harness is following a stock wire harness
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place the end of the pc's harness with the plugs up by the LOWER fuel injectors

the power commander's harness is set up so each cylinder's injector connections are spaced just right

here is the 1st cylinder's injector plug
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you need to pinch it from underneath and above while wiggling it and pulling slightly


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here's a pic of all the connections made
click on it to enlargen it

 
#7 ·
take seperate the gray black and blue three wire harness branch that goes to the Throttler Position Sensor to where there is a small plug just under the airbox behind the left side of the frame. it is the TPS (throttle position sensor)

I went between the frame and the airbox
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this bugger is a real bear

I had to use a large blade screw driver to put under the plug so as to twist the screw driver to get the plug off the connector While I released the catch tab that was on the plug with the micor flathead I mentioned earlier

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now take the plug and pull down on it to get a little slack so you can move it out a bit to plug the one end of the pc's connector into

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------------------------------------------------------------------
(note where I tucked the other plug- to the left or front of the sensor)
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now getting that plug on the sensor take fingers smaller than a 5 year olds'

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I ended up having to just guide the plug with my left hand and used a long skinny flathead to push the plug down.

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#8 ·
attach the ground wire and then finish zip strapping the pc harness to the factory harness it runs parallel with


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( I have the power commander mounted with the hook and loop fasterners provided








now you can lower your tank but when you do so pay close attention to the tabs that hang down that the two 12mm bolts go through so the tabs don't pull the bushing out of the rubber grommet

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now reverse the process to put your bike back together!
 
#11 ·
thanks, amazing what a bottle of rum, set of tools, and a digital camera can do,

ohhh can't forget about the turbo heater that was needed to make the 20* weather ok to work in that was my lil helper. :)
 
#12 ·
WOW!!! I am a very visual learner, so that is gonna help sooo very very much!! You rock. I am sure i could have done it myself with some cursing and fussing, but your pics make me feel like I was there... THANKS A BUNCH!!
 
#14 ·
Great write up. I have an 03 and I didn't realize there were that many differences with the fasteners on the rear and side cowls for the 05.
 
#18 ·
CHITO2004LAKERS said:
hey once you install it do you need a computer to run the power commander properly? By the way good info and very good way to set it up for us to understand it. Thanks dude!
you need computer to load a map to the power commander by using the usb cord supplied with the power commander
 
#26 ·
Thanks guys. :cheers:

PaulJON600rr,
which frame sliders? I'll get some and do a step by step with them.