the bike only has 17,000 km on it (so like 11,000 miles) so i thought i would save or sell the bodywork and get some race plastic... sadly, in spite of the low mileage, there was one leg broken off the front fender, a big crack in the nose and a crack in one of the ram air covers...
so what the hell, i'll run the stock bodywork until i crash and get some race plastic then. if nothing else it spreads the cost out a bit...
i've been happily getting rid of the unnecessary crap. ignition is gone
headlights are out as well as horn, turn signals, etc... pile is coming along!
got rid of the stock chain and sprockets. they were a bit nasty/rusty, so i've ordered a -1/+2 520 kit
found a good spot for the bank angle sensor... there are a couple of horns on the stock fairing stay that are the identical spacing to the mounting holes on the sensor so i just drilled them out and tapped them
and there it is all nicely bolted in!
got rid of the heat shielding and tried to clean up the exhaust as much as possible
and yes, it's epically lame to keep the stock exhaust, however the tracks near me are all freaking out about sound limits so pretty much anything aftermarket will blow over limit
And now the goodies are starting to trickle in... billet oil cap... it always pisses me off when the safety wire cuts through the plastic ones!
and what have we here? a box of billety goodness from battle factory! this was a great buy... i'm usually a woodcraft guy, but $400... damn! and so i was looking at the ebay ones from china which are like $150... quality unknown, although i haven't heard much bad... so i was undecided until i stumbled over the fact that battle factory made stuff for 600's! i thought they just did GP bikes.... and this set was an ebay find that split the difference price wise...
Ya? I've crashed battle factory stuff on previous bikes and it's always held up well... have you had bad experience with it? i wonder if you're thinking that because I got a steal deal on it that it's chinese knock off stuff.... battle factory rearsets are Japan built and usually retail for about $100-$150 more than Vortex.
so i got a cheap case off ebay and swapped the guts over. the quality definitely wasn't oem, but it was decent. i ended up reusing the stock back, and i had to swap over the rubber selector button. looks better than a cracked one for sure!
for stuff that comes on and off a lot, particularly at the track, like axles, i like to try and mark the torque spec on the bike... swing arm had a nice spot for the rear axle number
well this is a strange installation... label on the package is correct for my bike, but it seems like there's a bunch too much line... best routing so far has the left line going on top of the fairing stay, and the right line nearly touches the rad at right lock... i may fool around with it a bit more before i finalize...
Actually.. I might ask you for help first. I'm eliminating my ignition this week. Are you just using the kill switch as the ignition? Interested in which route you went.
Phil
Phil,
I had intended to wire the ignition into the kill switch as I have done on other bikes in the past, but i was overcome with a sudden attack of laziness, so i've just ordered a generic kill switch that i'll mount on the left bar where turn signals etc. used to be and i'll plumb the ignition into that. so either kill switch will cut the motor, but only the left one will shut off the rest of the bike.
man, is everyone as freaked out as me torquing those aluminum banjo bolts? pulled out my 1/4" wrench and dialled up 144 inch pounds (12 foot pounds) and it felt like they were gonna shear off like they were plastic... i guess it's in my head, but steel banjos wound up to 25 seems way less stressful!
Thanks Max!
I'm sizing it up and I think that if I zap strap it to the brake line right at the master it will pull it away enough that it won't be touching... that said it's going to be pretty close, and I'd be a bit nervous just using vinyl. So part 2 of the plan (I'm a bit of a schemer... I like trying different stuff) is that I've ordered silicone tubing for the reservoir... so the same stuff they make those rubbery muffin pans and oven mitts out of... supposedly happy with up to 500° so in theory it could even touch the pipe. I'll keep you posted!
ya, super short would be the other solution eh? looking forward to the pic in case i need to change my plan...
beemer? eeeeewww!
jk, congrats on the new beast!
got a predrilled Ti bolt for the case just above the oil filler to give me a place to safety wire to... how Gucci is this???
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