Dropping a tooth:
The idea for this project is to swap out the front drive sprocket on my 2006 CBR 600 RR for one with less teeth to give the bike a little better acceleration, and to see how much difference 1 tooth makes on the front. This is a $30 project that anyone can do, it's very low difficulty.
It's recommended that you swap out both sprockets and the chain all together because these components wear uniquely together. Changing out 1 piece will cause all the pieces to wear faster. Unfortunately I don't care how fast they wear because eventually I want to have multiple sprockets to throw on different set up's for different kinds of riding.
This is a great project that is really cheap and anyone could do it.
Step 1:
T first thing you need to do is pick a front sprocket suited to your bike. There are lots of brands to choose from but I chose to go with a Vortex 15t.
Step 2:
Get the bike up on the lift. My good buddy Shad and I built this lift as our senior project in college.
![Image]()
Step 3:
Put the transmission in 1st gear before you disconnect the shift linkage!!!
Unscrew the bolt on the gearshift arm and slide it off the gearshift spindle. You have to unscrew the bolt completely.
![Image]()
After you remove the linkage from the output shaft just swing it down out of the way. No need to take the foot stay off.
Step 4:
Remove the bolts to the drive sprocket cover.
Remove the cover and metal spacer (under the cover).
![Image]()
Step 5:
Next break loosen the bolt/washer holding the drive sprocket on. I needed to bust out the impact wrench to get it loose.
![Image]()
Step 6:
Screw in the jacking/adjusting bolts on the swing arm to relieve the chain tension.
Loosen the axle nut. Use the Snap On if you got it.
![Image]()
Slide the rear wheel forward enough to get the chain off the rear sprocket.
Slide the chain off the rear sprocket.
Step 7:
Now you should be able to get the front sprocket off the splined shaft. You may have to work the chain out of the way a little.
![Image]()
You can see the difference in the Vortex (Left) and the OEM (Right). The OEM has a rubber pad on both sides that the chain pushes on. I assume its to extend the chain life a little and help absorb some "suddenly applied loads."
![Image]()
Step 8:
This is a good time to clean out the drive sprocket area. I don't get in here a lot so mine was pretty nasty. Some guys think its cool to leave the cover off...but I'm pretty sure that all you are going to do is get oil and grime on your new Sidi's.
Step 9:
Slip the new sprocket onto the splined shaft and the chain should slip right over.
![Image]()
Put the chain on the rear sprocket.
Step 10:
Torque the drive sprocket bolt/washer to 54 N-m or 40 lbf-ft. It seems really weak but you gotta remember that there shouldn't be any loads trying to pull the sprocket off the end of the shaft, and the splines will keep it very secure. My point is that over torqueing this bolt could only lead to stripping some threads and making for an interesting/expensive project.
![Image]()
Step 11:
Screw out the jacking bolts on the swing arm to position the rear axle. I hate how the 05' and 06' axle positioning system works. There are some aftermarket positioners on the market that put the jacking bolt at the end of the swing arm which would be WAY more user friendly. I'm planning on making some of these pretty soon.
Check the chain tension.
Tighten up the rear axle nut. Torque to 113 N-m or 83-lbf-ft.
![Image]()
Step 12:
Clean up the drive sprocket cover and reseat the spacer.
Install the cover and tighten bolts securely.
Step 12:
Put the gearshift arm back on the splined gearshift spindle and align the slot with the punched mark on the spindle. Tighten the bolt securely.
Step 13:
Now its time to test ride you work.
The idea for this project is to swap out the front drive sprocket on my 2006 CBR 600 RR for one with less teeth to give the bike a little better acceleration, and to see how much difference 1 tooth makes on the front. This is a $30 project that anyone can do, it's very low difficulty.
It's recommended that you swap out both sprockets and the chain all together because these components wear uniquely together. Changing out 1 piece will cause all the pieces to wear faster. Unfortunately I don't care how fast they wear because eventually I want to have multiple sprockets to throw on different set up's for different kinds of riding.
This is a great project that is really cheap and anyone could do it.
Step 1:
T first thing you need to do is pick a front sprocket suited to your bike. There are lots of brands to choose from but I chose to go with a Vortex 15t.
Step 2:
Get the bike up on the lift. My good buddy Shad and I built this lift as our senior project in college.
Step 3:
Put the transmission in 1st gear before you disconnect the shift linkage!!!
Unscrew the bolt on the gearshift arm and slide it off the gearshift spindle. You have to unscrew the bolt completely.
After you remove the linkage from the output shaft just swing it down out of the way. No need to take the foot stay off.
Step 4:
Remove the bolts to the drive sprocket cover.
Remove the cover and metal spacer (under the cover).
Step 5:
Next break loosen the bolt/washer holding the drive sprocket on. I needed to bust out the impact wrench to get it loose.
Step 6:
Screw in the jacking/adjusting bolts on the swing arm to relieve the chain tension.
Loosen the axle nut. Use the Snap On if you got it.
Slide the rear wheel forward enough to get the chain off the rear sprocket.
Slide the chain off the rear sprocket.
Step 7:
Now you should be able to get the front sprocket off the splined shaft. You may have to work the chain out of the way a little.
You can see the difference in the Vortex (Left) and the OEM (Right). The OEM has a rubber pad on both sides that the chain pushes on. I assume its to extend the chain life a little and help absorb some "suddenly applied loads."
Step 8:
This is a good time to clean out the drive sprocket area. I don't get in here a lot so mine was pretty nasty. Some guys think its cool to leave the cover off...but I'm pretty sure that all you are going to do is get oil and grime on your new Sidi's.
Step 9:
Slip the new sprocket onto the splined shaft and the chain should slip right over.
Put the chain on the rear sprocket.
Step 10:
Torque the drive sprocket bolt/washer to 54 N-m or 40 lbf-ft. It seems really weak but you gotta remember that there shouldn't be any loads trying to pull the sprocket off the end of the shaft, and the splines will keep it very secure. My point is that over torqueing this bolt could only lead to stripping some threads and making for an interesting/expensive project.
Step 11:
Screw out the jacking bolts on the swing arm to position the rear axle. I hate how the 05' and 06' axle positioning system works. There are some aftermarket positioners on the market that put the jacking bolt at the end of the swing arm which would be WAY more user friendly. I'm planning on making some of these pretty soon.
Check the chain tension.
Tighten up the rear axle nut. Torque to 113 N-m or 83-lbf-ft.
Step 12:
Clean up the drive sprocket cover and reseat the spacer.
Install the cover and tighten bolts securely.
Step 12:
Put the gearshift arm back on the splined gearshift spindle and align the slot with the punched mark on the spindle. Tighten the bolt securely.
Step 13:
Now its time to test ride you work.
