The 07 RR is just a bit different than the 05-06 in the previously written guide (http://cbrworld.net/forums/thread/248112.aspx). So when I flushed mine, I took some pictures for those who are unsure where everything is located like I was.
Hope this helps the 07 owners and please let me know if there are mistakes in these directions.
1. Take off the bottom fairing.
2. Take off right side mid and upper fairing to expose the radiator cap.
3. Undo the 10mm bolt, pop the lid and dump the coolant out of the reserve bottle.
4. The water pump is on the left side near the gear lever. Look for the shiny aluminum pipe.
5. The water pump drain bolt (10mm) is near where the aluminum pipe goes into the water pump.
6. Before doing the next steps, exercise caution if the bike is still hot. You can get burned by the steam and/or hot coolant, so best if you wait until bike has cooled off.
7. Undo the drain bolt. Some coolant will drip out. Place a pan under there before proceeding.
8. Remove the radiator cap. When you remove the radiator cap, coolant will pour out of the drain bolt at the bottom. Wait until it stops draining.
9. Replace and tighten the drain bolt.
10. At the radiator cap opening, fill system with distilled water. Close radiator cap.
11. Run the bike to operating temp so the water pump circulates the distilled water.
12. Turn off bike and wait for it to cool.
13. Repeat steps 6-12 a couple times until whats coming out is clear distilled water.
14. Once clear, tighten the drain bolt back up for good per torque specs.
15. Then fill system with your favorite coolant or distilled water+Wetter.
16. With radiator cap still off, start the bike and watch the coolant get sucked down into the pump and radiator. Add more coolant to fill it up again. Blip throttle 3-4 times to burp the air out of the system. Add more coolant if needed. Replace and tighten the radiator cap.
17. Fill reserve bottle with coolant to the lower mark.
18. Replace your fairings.
19. Done!
The Following 20 Users Say Thank You to impostor71 For This Useful Post:
Looks like someone is a step closer to being ready for the track on Monday! Good pics for this procedure on the '07 600rr. Maybe someone should sticky it?
Also remember there is a coolant drain bolt on the front engine block (just below where the headers come out). This drains coolant from the block and should be removed, drained, then drilled, returned to the block, and wired if racing.
That's a excellent question. I'd like to know too.
Ha, just came across an article in Honda RedRider about preparing a cbr for the track.
can't scan it right now, but i will quote:
"Instead, drain the cooling system (see your owner's manual for instruction), flush with water and refill with a high-performance coolant for the track such as Engine-Ice, Cool-Aide or Water Wetter, products that lower operating temperatures and lubricate water-pump seals much more effectively thatn plain distilled water."
so i guess when honda recommends it, it won't damage your 07. and if it does, hm, reference the sept/oct 07 magazine at the court :D
Sorry for noob question but should I flush my coolant and change it to water wetter for the street? Would it help street applications and lower operating temps?
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07 600RR - Black
-1/+2 Vortex sprockets
6000K Hids
Leo Vince SBK Carbon/carbon
Pazzo shorties
Proton flushmounts
Shogun Sliders
Tripage FE and 06 CA tail lights
how much coolant does it usually take, how do you know when its full? mine "overflowed a bit after i started the bike and blipped the throttle?
Fill the system through the filler opening up to the filler neck. Fill reserve tank to the upper line. Start engine and let it idle for 2-3 minutes. Blip throttle 3-4 times. Stop engine and add coolant up to the filler neck as needed. Install radiator cap. Check level of coolant in reserve tank and fill to the upper level if it is low. Install radiator reserve tank cap. Check for any leaks. That should about get it.
Is waterwetter with distilled water compatible with the 07 since we have a magnesium head?
I'm pretty sure they meant "not to use non-distilled or tap water alone, w/ or w/o waterwetter", from what I came across and read
Quote:
Precipitated solids are a related effect to galvanic corrosion in that dissolved metal ions get dumped out of solution onto a ready surface. However, the most common precipitated solids arise from ions present in a poorly chosen coolant: calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and magnesium carbonate (MgCO3). Typically the problem starts when someone uses tap water instead of distilled or de-ionized water.
The composition of tap water is varied, but it will typically contain fairly high concentrations of Ca2+ and Mg2+ (dissolved Calcium and Magnesium). Some tap water even contains copper and lead, which are not particularly good for your health. When these ions are placed into a cooling loop with dissolved CO2 and Water Wetter™, then eventually solid phases (CaCO3 and/or MgCO3) will start to precipitate out. Avoid tap water! Buying distilled water is well worth the investment of $0.79 for a gallon. Even a cheap Brita water filter removes the majority of these dangerous (for your coolant) ions. A water block covered in Calcium Carbonate does not transfer heat nearly as well as a clean block, and when tubing clogs with solids water circulation will suffer.
another question though: i realize that the 07's has magnesium head cover; but actually where's the coolant passage at? isn't in it within the cylinder head itself? if so, what is the cylinder head made out of?
I just changed mine with waterwetter, abit different process but here's what I did and also referring to the user's manual.
Some background info in using the waterwetter (the 12oz bottle), the direction says to use 1 oz (3-4 caps full) for every quart of d-water.
Since '07's cooling system uses 3.65 qts including reserve tank, I basically used 12 caps full of the waterwetter.
1. Unscrew and remove both the waterpump-side and the cylinder-side drain bolts, let the coolant pour out abit, and then remove the radiator cap to get it all out. (could do one bolt at a time to control splashes)
2. Reinstall the bolts (just to plug, not tighten), fill system with distilled water, then remove both bolts again (also could do one by one) for first flush.
3. Repeat step 2 once or more if needed (could add engine warm up too to circulate d-water between repeats) for more flushing.
4. Empty and rinse the reserve tank.
5. Finally install all bolts and tighten, fill system with waterwetter and distilled water.
6. Bleed air out from the system by turning on the engine for 2-3 minutes and snapping the throttle several times.
7. Turn off engine, add d-water to filler neck if needed, replace cap.
I'm pretty sure they meant "not to use non-distilled or tap water alone, w/ or w/o waterwetter", from what I came across and read
another question though: i realize that the 07's has magnesium head cover; but actually where's the coolant passage at? isn't in it within the cylinder head itself? if so, what is the cylinder head made out of?
OK, got a confirmation from jeff tigert that the new magnesium part on the 07 is referring to the head cover not the cylinder head where the coolant passage it at, and that he also uses waterwetter on his racebike.
You can use a variety of combinations, I have always used a 50/50 mix.
I use 3 gallons of distilled water to flush the radiator and then I take a half a gallon of distilled water and mix it with (4) of the little bottles (from Advanced Auto Parts). Which ends up being enough to fill her up, and the overflow.
I've never really noticed much of a change in temp, maybe 5 +/- *
Remember also, Water Wetter is track approved whereas some of the others may not be (depending on the track) WW would be the best bet if you ever plan to do trackdays.
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"at 8k i often get the tire to slip a bit(kinda like stoner in motogp) when i start to get on the throttle"
