Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So for the 03's I see that people are swapping the rectifiers to a 04-05 rectifier to help solve the charging issue. When the time comes, does the 03' rectifier actually go bad or is it just to replace it with a better rectifier with a heat shield? Since I am having horrible charging issues right now, would just making a heat shield work? Is my current rectifier wrecked at all? I know I have to replace the battery because of all this, but do I trully have to swap the rectifier too? Other than the heat shield, what really changed on the rectifier to fix the problem?

Now that you have swallowed that mouthful, please help answer what you can.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
From what I can tell I don't think the rectifier goes bad per se, you just have the charging issues. I haven't had any real issues with mine except I've noticed it seems like the battery is really drained when I try to start it when it's hot. Let it cool for a while and it's like a brand new battery was installed. You can get the heat shield seperately ($15 from ronayers.com) but it looks like the 04-05 recitifier is shaped slightly different so I don't know if it will just bolt on.

I found an 04 rectifier w/ shield on ebay for $50 so I went ahead and bought it, it's actually supposed to arrive today. I had been thinking about the whole issue for a while and decided to just buy one when I found a cheap one. I'm not getting a new battery because it always seems fine once it cools down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
My battery has gotten soooo bad I couldn't start it cold though... I am just trying to see if making my own heat shield would fix the rectifier problem before I replace the battery... I don't want to replace the battery until I know the cause is fixed.

Ajax- Please let me know if the 05' makes a difference and how different the rectifier is itself...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
For pictures go to ebay and do a search for "cbr600rr regulator", there's 3 for sale with one being the later year model (and only $42.99).

From searching this site it seemed like replacing it solved any issues and I was willing to take a chance for $50.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,434 Posts
I wouldn't recommend buying used electronics like a rectifier unless you KNOW the seller. The heat will cause the rectifier to eventually fail. It starts fluctuating the voltage to the battery and eventually damages the cells of the battery.

Crank the bike and run it up to 5,500rpm. If the voltage at the battery is less than 15.5v, you may have a bad R/R. Have the battery checked and replaced if it's bad. Otherwise, just charge it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
I realize I took a chance buying used electronics but I was willing to take the chance for $50, better than the $150+ for a new one. The seller had good feedback and it one is supposedly from an 05. I received it today and it looks practically new so I'm hoping it's good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So do the Rectifiers actually go bad? Or do they just cause the battery to go bad when they overheat? The reason I ask is, if I replace the battery and make a heat shield would that be fine? Orrrr would the rectifier be bad so even with a heat shield it would wreck the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
NewRedRider said:
Crank the bike and run it up to 5,500rpm. If the voltage at the battery is less than 15.5v, you may have a bad R/R. Have the battery checked and replaced if it's bad. Otherwise, just charge it.
Did some reading last night and according to the service manual at 5000rpm:

measured battery voltage < measured charging voltage < 15.5v

A good fully charged battery should measure around 13.0v-13.2v so at 5000rpm it should measure between 13.0v and 15.5v if the rectifier/regulator is doing its job.

Edit: my service manual is for an 03 and I'm assuming it's the same for 04-05 but I may be wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
TRBO2NR said:
So do the Rectifiers actually go bad? Or do they just cause the battery to go bad when they overheat? The reason I ask is, if I replace the battery and make a heat shield would that be fine? Orrrr would the rectifier be bad so even with a heat shield it would wreck the battery?
I'm sure regulator/rectifiers can and do go bad but I'd be more inclined to suspect that maybe it's just your battery. Even properly maintained batteries have a limited service life, and it can be damaged if it has drained for a long time. Here's a quote from the service manual:

Battery voltage may recover after battery charging, but under heavy load, battery voltage will drop quickly and eventually die out. For this reason, the charging system is often suspected as the problem. Battery overcharge often results from problems in the battery itself, which may appear to be an overcharging symptom. If one of the battery cells is shorted and battery voltage does not increase, the regulator/rectifier supplies excess voltage to the battery. Under these conditions the electrolyte level goes down quickly.
I installed the new regulator/rectifier last night and rode my RR this morning to work but have not had a chance to do any diagnostics yet. No problems so far but I think in my case that I need a new battery. Right after I bought my RR used a year ago the battery went dead. I just had it charged back and went on my merry way but I never have done any other maintenance on it.

Here's some things you can check (from the service manual):

Battery: A fully charged battery will measure 13.0v-13.2v, undercharged will show less than 12.3v.

Charging voltage (regulated voltage): Run the engine to 5000rpm and measure across the battery. It should show between 13.2v and 15.5v.

Alternator charging coil: At the regulator/rectifier disconnect the 3-pin connector (it has 3 yellow wires). Measure the resistance between the 3 yellow wires, it should measure 0.1-1.0 ohms. Check the continuity between each yellow wire and ground, there should be NO continuity. If the resistance is way off or there is any continuity to ground then the alternator stator may need to be replaced.

Regulator/rectifier: Disconnect the two connectors at the regulator/rectifier. One is a 3-pin (3 yellow wires), the other a 4-pin (2 red +, 2 green - (ground) wires). Check for any loose contacts or corroded terminals. If the regulated voltage reading is out of spec then measure the voltage between terminals on the connectors (wire harness side, not the regulator side) as follows: a)battery voltage should appear between the red + and green - (ground) wires b)resistance between each yellow wire terminal should be 0.1-1.0 ohms c)continuity should exist between green wires and ground.
If all components of the charging system are normal and there are not loose connections at the regulator/rectifier then the regulator/rectifier may be bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
How do you check continuity? Are there any pictures/diagrams in the service manual? If so if it weren't too much trouble could you please post them up. Thanks for all your help guys...

I do realize my battery probably is bad now, but I don't want to replace it until I have fixed the cause of it. There is no reason my battery should be bad on a 2 year old bike with 4900 miles on it... My bike never sits longer than a week at a time other than winter in which I remove the battery and store it indoors...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
TRBO2NR said:
How do you check continuity? Are there any pictures/diagrams in the service manual? If so if it weren't too much trouble could you please post them up. Thanks for all your help guys...

I do realize my battery probably is bad now, but I don't want to replace it until I have fixed the cause of it. There is no reason my battery should be bad on a 2 year old bike with 4900 miles on it... My bike never sits longer than a week at a time other than winter in which I remove the battery and store it indoors...
To check continuity you'll need a multimeter or a continuity tester, you could probably get one for cheap at any auto parts store, maybe even Walmart. You're basically just checking for shorts. Like the yellow wires should not be connected to ground and checking continuity between them will tell you if they are connected or not. There are a few pictures in the service manual but really they are not that helpful or clear. The regulator/rectifier is right behind the left side mid-fairing and there are only 2 wire bundles going to it with connectors on it (described in my earlier post). Once you have the mid-fairing off you can't miss it.

And batteries can and do go bad, read that quote in my earlier post. The original battery in my '03 Explorer just up and died on me last month. I drove it home from work, even stopping by Walgreens, and everything was fine. After I stopped to get the mail it was totally dead. I checked the voltage on it with my digital multimeter and it showed ~12.4v but I took the battery to O'Reailly auto parts anyways and they tested it (under load), which showed that it was indeed bad. I put a new battery in and it's been fine. Just one example. It's possible that your battery is on its way out and could end up totally dead soon, who knows. Batteries naturally degrade over time so even taking it out over the winter it is losing its charge, keeping it charged regularly helps prolong its life but they still have a limited lifespan. The service manual says 2-3 years is the typical lifespan of a battery.

Edit: check the following like for some basics on testing continuity.
http://www.bobvila.com/FixItClub/Task/Repairing/FIG_UsingContinuityTester.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
TRBO2NR,

I'm having the same problem and saw the replies below....did you get a chance to troubleshoot yet? I've always had a problem with the bike starting when super hot (you could tell the kicks were getting weaker), but totay it finally went. I usually let it cool down then it's ready to go, but it's completely cool and there absolutely no juice, only clicks.

Jeff


TRBO2NR said:
So for the 03's I see that people are swapping the rectifiers to a 04-05 rectifier to help solve the charging issue. When the time comes, does the 03' rectifier actually go bad or is it just to replace it with a better rectifier with a heat shield? Since I am having horrible charging issues right now, would just making a heat shield work? Is my current rectifier wrecked at all? I know I have to replace the battery because of all this, but do I trully have to swap the rectifier too? Other than the heat shield, what really changed on the rectifier to fix the problem?

Now that you have swallowed that mouthful, please help answer what you can.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
617 Posts
My 05 regulator/rectifier seems to be doing well. I also bought & installed a new Yuasa battery today. I checked everything with my multimeter and everything is within spec. The battery is measuring 13.1v with the engine off and with it running at 5000rpm it measures 14.5v.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
51,153 Posts
:icon_salu Ajax
Great job of explaining the diagnostic steps bro i am sure this will help
a lot of members that are having issues with their bike's charging system
thanks again bro :beer: :rocker:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I've been looking at buying an 03 and have been reading about theses R/R problems, I just want to clarify, is it the 03 R/R's that are defective and heat up, or is the lack of proper heatshielding which cause them to overheat. Will an 04 or 05 R/R bolt on and do those include the heatshield.. I'm just trying to figure all this out before I possibly but an 03, or do you guys just think I should stay away from the 03s and get an 04? Are there any other problems with the 03s because they are the first year of this model... Thanks so much in advance for the advice..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
767 Posts
ive been pushstarting for a year -03 rr
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
Can someone just make this clear.... 06's do not have the charging problem right? Meaning they don't have to be above 5k... or am i wrong. Why did they ever design them that way!?!
 
K

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
that is correct. the 2005 and 2006 designs do not have this problem. but the problem isn't at what RPM the charging system feeds amperage back to the battery, it's the RR itself malfunctioning.

you bike should charge at idle, although, it's not going to be serious charging.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,434 Posts
Knightslugger said:
that is correct. the 2005 and 2006 designs do not have this problem. but the problem isn't at what RPM the charging system feeds amperage back to the battery, it's the RR itself malfunctioning.

you bike should charge at idle, although, it's not going to be serious charging.
But it was alot higher than I had imagined. Even for my old '04 R/R to get 13.97 (low beams) and 13.22 (high beams) at idle was more than I expected. It actually doesn't change that drastically up to 5k rpm. You can read more about my test here.

http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=60188&page=5&pp=15&highlight=high+beams
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top