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Discussion Starter #1
OK, so I have a 03 600rr. Here are the details;

Bike would just turn off, randomly while riding. Usually I just turned it off then on again and it would start. But this time it didn't. The key turned on and starter turns but not priming of fuel.

-When key turned on, gauge cluster does its thing. But fuel pump does not prime.
- Fuel pump tested and works, no voltage going to pump.
- Tested BAS, works fine
- Checked fuses, and relays and all work fine
- Checked ECM, and there is no voltage going to it. Shop manual says there is an open circuit from the bat to the ECM.
-Engine kill switch I think is working fine, the relay clicks when it’s turned on and off. The starter turns over despite whether it’s on or off which I think is what it used to do. It’s a kill switch off of a 1000rr.

Please help, not sure what else to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ok, so now when i've been testing the fuel cut off relay and engine kill relay and have been flicking on and off the key the bike barely turns on. and i can't switch it to high beams. There is power going to the engine cut off relay, and then power goes to the fuel cut off relay but doesn't make it from there to the ECU. the battery has around 11-12 volts in it. Its like there is something draining the power. I took off my alarm but still it does the same thing.
 

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I have experienced that 2 times but I'm sure there are more reasons than two why that would happen. First time was putting in a PC3 and I didn't hook up one of the fuel injecters. The cluster worked and everything but the fuel pump didn't prime. I could get the fuel pump to run by by-passing the relay but it still didn't start. The other was the ECU was bad and it did the same thing.

Get another ECU and try it or start looking through a wiring diagram but I'd try the ECU first. I have an extra if you want to bring your bike down to Dana Point.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
yeah its really frustrating, i checked and tested the ignition switch today and replaced the little diode but still no go. I had to replace my battery because it wasn't holding a charge, but still the fuel pump doesn't prime. the weird thing is that the ECU just doesn't get any power. Which is from the fuel cut off relay. is like the wire is broken somewhere from the relay to the computer. According to the wiring diagram. Power goes from the bat to the engine cut off relay, to the fuel cut off relay, then to the ECU, and it doesn't make it there. From other posts im going try and bypass the bas sensor, check the neutral switch, kick stand switch, regulator/rectifier then directly wire the power to the ECU. After that, im all out of luck, and might just do that, get an new ECU. Where is Dana Point? might just have to do that.
 

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So you're not getting any voltage on the BL/W wire into the gray connector of the ECU? That wire should always be hot no matter if the bike is on or not. Check the BL/W coming out of the fuel cut relay. You said it is good but just to make sure. Do you have the connectors that are for checking the ECU? I'd guess not, they look expensive and how often would you need them? I'd re-check the BL/W at the ECU. It is hard to get a reading, I had to use a voltmeter with a needle on one end to pierce the insulation on the wire. I couldn't get a good reading. Maybe stick a small piece of wire in the pin hole where the ecu connects. The ecu doesn't need to be connected to check this.

When I left the fuel injector wire off I checked that bike for 3 days. I put in a PC3 and then had the prob. Then removed it and still had the prob. What are the odds of missing one connector each time, so it was the last thing I checked.

Check everything else too, you never know what you'll find. Umn, Dana Point is about an hour south of L.A. just off of the 5 before San Clemente.
 

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I have experienced that 2 times but I'm sure there are more reasons than two why that would happen. First time was putting in a PC3 and I didn't hook up one of the fuel injecters. The cluster worked and everything but the fuel pump didn't prime. I could get the fuel pump to run by by-passing the relay but it still didn't start. The other was the ECU was bad and it did the same thing.

Get another ECU and try it or start looking through a wiring diagram but I'd try the ECU first. I have an extra if you want to bring your bike down to Dana Point.
Funny that you mention the ECU not working. I had the same problem some weeks back after installing my PC3. I installed it, made sure everything was nice and tight. I turned the key, the cluster worked but the fuel pump didn't prime. I purchased a new ECU, removed the PC3 and all was well after that. I have since sent my PC3 to dynojet and I am currently waiting to see what's up.

I also sent them my ECU, cause everything was fine before I installed the PC3. Hopefully I'll be getting a new PC3 back from dynojet. It seems as if the main culprit was a faulty PC3 which caused the ECU to crap out on me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, so i think im narrowing down the problem. Should there be battery voltage going to the engine cut off relay and fuel cut off when the bike is off? (off with no key in)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK that 20amp fuse is fine. But the engine cut off relay doesn't get power unless the key is on. Which essentially leads to the fuel cut off relay and then the computer. So if the computer should always be getting power I think the problem is coming from the starter switch by the battery. Im going to test that today.

Also, I found the main fuse, FI fuse, but is there a sub fuse? or is that the same thing as the FI fuse. I mean there is two fuses under the seat and also the ones under the left mid cowl. Are there any others.
 

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This bike is wired opposite of a car. Everything in a car is grounded and is controlled by applying +12v to the pos to turn it on.

On your bike, +12v should be common but turning it on is controlled by the -12v. (or ground) A wiring diagram will clarify this more.

do you have a wiring diagram? If not, I can send you one.

One last thing, I might be going to the Chaparral parking lot sale which is in San Bernardino. I'd be close to your area and can bring the ECU. This is no Guarantee, I have to take my fiance to the airport that day also so I don't know what time I have to go and stuff, I'll let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey thanks so much, but im in Ontario, Canada. I wish I lived in California, year round riding.

I do have a wiring diagram and a shop manual. So, i've been following the manual and have found that the ECM does not get any power. And the neutral switch is not grounded when its in neutral. But thats what i know forsure.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK, so the kick stand switch works. And the R/R is up to spec. I want to think its the ECM but since it doesn't even get power when the key is turned on, it makes me think its the relay connectors. I've removed everything PC, speedo healer. Im just running out of things to check. The manual says there is an open circuit between the bat and the ecm. And there is only 2 wires to check. I really think i need to replace the relay connectors. Where is this sub fuse?
 

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After looking at the diagrams yes the engine stop relay gets constant power from the battery off of one of the red/white wires regardless of the key position. That 12vdc should then go through the engine stop relay and out on the black/white wire. The black/white wire then goes to a splice point prior to entering the fuel cut relay. From that splice point the 12vdc then goes out to the starting essential such as ignition coils injectors and the ECU gray connector. The fuel cut relay has nothing to do with power getting to the ECU. It just controls power to the fuel pump. So if you are getting power to the fuel cut relay off of both black/white wires, but not getting power to the ECU gray connector on the black/white wire then you have a broken wire or loose connector
 

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From reading you're previous posts though you say you are getting power to the fuel cut realy, so that would leave me to believe that the fuel pump should also be getting power from the brown wire off of the fuel cut relay unless the ECU is providing a ground to the brown/black wire on the fuel cut relay which would cause the relay switch to open and stop the 12vdc from transferring. This could be because the ECU is not getting the 12vdc from the engine stop relay so it is not releasing the ground. Make sure you are getting 12vdc on the black/white wires on the fuel cut relay. post back after you check this out.
 

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Talking of the fuel pump relay, When I had my problem, the fuel pump didn't prime. It wasn't because of the fuel pump or anything ralated to it. Something was wrong elsewhere (injector not plugged in) which the ECU knew was wrong and didn't prime the fuel. I ran a lead from the battery to the fuel pump relay and turned it on to prime it but it still didn't start. I'm guessing no spark or injectors not on, probably both. Then the fuel pump isn't the problem, it is just the audiable sound that tells you that everything is ok. ( or in this case, the lack of the sound says not ok.)

Like scoRRpion says, The power from the battery to the ECU doesn't go through the relays, the +12v line from the battery just connects to the relays also. It is a solid, uninterrupted wire that goes from point to point putting power where it is needed. If you take the relays out, you should still have power at the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Decope17, I don't get any power to ecu when the key is turn on or off. Power stops red/white at the Engine cut off relay. The shop manual says that there should be battery volage at contact 16 on the light gray connector only when the key is in the on position.

This is whats happening at the engine cut off relay and fuel cut off relay.

When the bike is off. Power comes from the bat and stops at the engine cut off relay. Red/white line.

When key is turn to on. There is battery voltage at the engine cut off relay in three places the bat line red/white, black/white, and solid black. At the fuel cut off relay there is batter voltage at the black/white (wire from the engine cut off relay) and the brown/black.

And again the relays have been taken out and all been tested, and according to the shop manual they are fine. Im going to take a look at my wiring diagram.
 

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So it appears as though from your statement that the switch in the engine stop relay opens when the key is in off which makes sense cause you want your motor to stop working when you turn the key off. It doesn't do a good job of dipicting that in the diagrams.
Still from this when the key is truned to on or run you should have 12vdc at pin 16 of the gray connector on the ECU. If you are not getting that voltage then your black/white wire from the engine stop relay to the ECU is broken. Use an ohm meter or multimeter set in the resistance setting (omega symbol) and put one lead on the ECU pin 16 and the other lead on the black/white wire on the engine cut relay. If you get 0-5ohms then that wire is good. anything higher than that and that black/white wire is broken somewhere in the bundle. If you do get 0-5 ohms also make sure that the black/white wire is not shorted to ground. It looks like there are multiple splice point in the path up to the ECU so there is a good possibility the one of those is bad. Especially since you said your bike would turn off on its own while riding.
 
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