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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was looking for a cold air intake for my 05 600RR just for fun today scouring the internet to see if they even existed. I've seen so many cold air variations and RAM-air designs on drift cars, sports cars. I haven't found any cold air intakes for my 600RR though. It would be so cool to replace all the ducting with thin stainless steel or aluminium. If you have an 05-06 600RR then you would know what I mean, imagine if you could replace those front intake fins with aluminum or stainless and all your intake ducting, the front fins could be painted for aesthetics or left chrome. Combining or turning the 600RR Ram air design into a cold air intake would show minor but still results.
Colder air is denser so you get more O2 into the cylinder on the intake stroke for a more efficient ignition, giving you just that little tiny more bang. I'd imagine on a dyno it would be like a 5 to 10 kw increase lol but it's still cool, especially if you're doing a bunch of other mods like, power commander V, quality exhaust "Yoshi, GPR etc", some half cut velocity stacks, high quality filters regularly maintained, generally always K&N. Some sprockets to suit you and get her Dyno'd. If you really wanna go all out like a rich boy get an aftermarket subframe, calipers, slotted and drilled rotors and some sick pads. But I would do that last.
I could easily delete the plastic intake parts and custom fit some steel/aluminum intake tubing, but I want to retain that front fairing grill without modifying it.
I'm deeply interested to know if anyone has seen some kind of cold air intake for the 05-06 600RR.
I saw some carbon fiber designs on this website but I want steel or aluminium. Yoyodyne supplies special racing parts for road racing and drag racing motorcycles.
Thanks fellow riders, stay safe <3
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Metals cool faster than plastic, which is why most high quality intake setups and air boxes are made out of thin stainless or usually aluminium. A medium quality setup cold air intake to me on say, a drift car, would be scrapping all the plastic and stock filter up to the intake manifold, and plumb some aluminium 2.5” tubing or whatever from the intake to the front of the car and throw a quality poddy on it. A High quality intake would be similar, except with a whole aluminium ram air intake box with the additional plumbing to the front.
To answer, as air passes metal it is cooled by radiative cooling, the process of thermal radiation. In simple terms metal loses heat fast, as air passes metal it is cooled. Cool air is denser, which means you get more O2/Oxygen into your motor on the intake stroke. The more O2 you get in, the more efficient your ignition will be. O2 under pressure is more explosive. Hence if you turbo’d a car that wasn’t builtfor a turbo. It would go Pop after a tune. Because it’s not built to have the compression necessary to withstand the amount of air the turbo is ramming into the cylinders.
 

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Interesting.

I know about cooler air being more densly packed with oxygen and therefore gives a better burn, however I'm sceptical that the benfits would be worth the effort. Would not the metal be heavier than the plastic and thus negate any (probably marginal) power increase? Probably better off just making the inlets and air box out of carbon fibre and reducing the weight.

If it was that beneficial I suspect all MotoGP and WSB factory bikes would do it. But they don't, they use carbon fibre for lighness.
 

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you are forgetting that the intakes for cars are located in the hot engine compartment. the intakes for motorcycles are located in the wind at the front of the bike, and don't share a hot compartment with anything.

making the tubing out of metal would have zero effect on the temperature, as nothing is heating the intake ducting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
you are forgetting that the intakes for cars are located in the hot engine compartment. the intakes for motorcycles are located in the wind at the front of the bike, and don't share a hot compartment with anything.

making the tubing out of metal would have zero effect on the temperature, as nothing is heating the intake ducting.
Bike intakes and car intakes are pretty much the same. Air gets taken from the front, through the intake ducting into the airbox through your air filter, into the velocity stacks sitting on the throttle body/fuel injectors body. That sits on giant 600cc hot motor that permeates heat which rises/radiates into the ducting. My argument against a thin aluminum I had previously been thinking about is yes metal cools fast, but it also heats up fast, granted is has much better thermal radiative properties than plastic so it will/should stay cooler depending on how much heat is hitting it to begin with.
And with the weight side of things I had been thinking aluminum might be a bit flimsy if it's made to be light, but the metal would still act as a cooler of sorts, I'd of explained Turbo intercoolers but they're pretty easy to understand and pretty much do what I'm explaining about the metal ducting. I've just redone my indicators after my bro took one out riding past my bike in the back yard. Since the bike is already apart, I took out the air ducts just to show off so we can imagine them in aluminum or steel. I was stuck on the weight aspect for a while, but I've seen some beefy Cold air intakes and obviously the thinner and lighter the metal is while retaining strength, the higher quality your parts are. Mind you if it was the same weight or a tiny bit heavier the motor would still be igniting fuel more efficiently.
I was thinking this part would be pretty easy to make out of aluminium;
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But the rest of it looks like it would be a pain to fabricate, although I do believe you could replace all the parts I've removed with an aluminum alternative.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood

Even the the air-filter's airbox. But I don't really see the point in putting that much effort into a custom intake on a 600CC. I'd probably reserve this much work for a 1000CC Fireblade that had low K's and I planned to keep for a long, long time. Just because I'd want to squeeze every drop of juice out of it.
 

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i can assure you that you're going down a fruitless path. changing those ducts for metal won't do a damn thing, enlarging them won't either.

the 600rr has no issues with intake volume or temperature, there's no free power waiting for you, regardless of what outcome your thought exercise is suggesting.

your pic just proves my point about the intake routing being nowhere near the engine. it's in front of it, and when riding the engine is downwind of it.


in a car the engine bay has much stiller air in it and the intake routes through it, you don't get the same effect under a hood at all.



the reason that you see so many intakes in metal instead of plastic is that it's way easier and cheaper for aftermarket companies to work in metal. manufacturing intricate plastic tubes is a bit of an issue, especially for smaller outfits.
 

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Making intake tube out of aluminum will not gain hp but you will definitely gain weight, I replaced the stock plastic intake tubes on my 03 600RR with carbon & shed almost ½kg. You'll be better off replacing the rubber coolant hoses with aluminum tubing, not only it's lighter, it will also aid in cooling the engine better & make it run more consistently. Power loss is noticeable when temp rises above 85°C, been waiting for the Japanese fabricator to come back from Japan to make a set on my bike.

Something to think about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you google before and after Cold Air Intake Dyno sheet. You would see gains on pretty much all sheets. Although the more I think of a 600CC the more it reminds me of an NA KE70 which usually have really cool looking throttle kits and don't usually run a cold air intake system. I breezed over a dyno sheet of a Ducati Monster with and without an airbox making more power which is similar. Anyway I thought this motor was a good analogy for a modded intake system on a relatively small NA motor for track use. I'm pretty stumped to be honest. My bro was arguing that carbon intakes are just as good, why would they use them in F1 cars.
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This is a quality cold air intake on an S15, 2.0L SR20 pushing around 300rwkw 400HP safe.
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Again to dance around the question, I don't know. A 600CC 4 Cylinder motor with a cold air intake in my opinion could see from a 5 to 10 HP increase respectively if it's done right. In my opinion on an 05-06, you're better off scrapping all the intake plastics, delete those plastics that cling under the stock intake as well, and make a custom cold air intake up to the front. Utilizing the stock air-filter instead of going filter less. But I would never just do the intake. I would to the entire breathing side of things, exhaust, power commander V and ignition/fuel modules, sprockets and take her for a proper dyno tune.
 

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to get a 10hp increase on a 100hp engine takes a whole lot more than a piece of pipe my friend.

you will get zero horsepower from messing around with the intake funnels. they're already plumbed to the cold air at the front of the bike, there's no gains to be had.

the supposition of a 10% increase in engine output is honestly just delusion. if you want an extra 10 out of your 600rr you're doing engine work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I suppose 10hp is a stretch but cold air intakes do work and there are gains to be had.
I've seen gains made with cold air intakes first hand. It's like saying upgrading the factory plastic intake on an XR6 Turbo to a Cold air intake will get you zero horsepower.
If you can manage the weight and swap out the plastic for a metal, and it makes what a 2HP gain in conjunction with deleting the plastic and hypothetically replacing it with the most ideal metal tubing, weight wise. You have an extra 2hp all round pre-any other mods, you could actually be lighter deleting the plastics because they take up a lot of space too on the 05-06's.
 

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the 600rr HAS A COLD AIR INTAKE. that's literally what i'm telling you. cold air intakes on cars reroute the intake ducting to the cold air at the front of the car. bikes already have it there.

bikes are not cars, you are trying to create an equivalence between them but there isn't one. it seems you have spent a lot of time reading about and working on cars, and are trying to project that knowledge onto motorcycles, but it doesn't cross over directly.

you also must consider that a 600cc engine doesn't actually consume all that much air when compared to a multi-liter car engine, so intake volume isn't as paramount, and airbox pressure is rarely a problem. this means you aren't dealing with restriction in the intake, so opening it up buys you nothing.
 

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HondaRRider Still doing your calculations?
HondaRRider I was rather hoping you would come back with some actual calculations to show why you thought your suggestion would net more power, but you are just saying you think it would.

To get an extra 10bhp (10%!!!!) power from a 600cc motor is only going to happen if you throw a lot of expensive parts at it. I have a fully race tuned 2005/2006 CBR600RR, tuned by the late, great Tony Scott and it has a skimmed block, Tony Scott cams, race valve springs, HRC ECU, HRC bellmouths, balanced crank, blueprinted/balanced pistons and con rods. I've never had it on a dyno, but it makes in the region of 125 to 130bhp. If metal intakes would give more power, he would have used them. Sorry, but I think your claims are unrealistic.

The car photo example you have shown to support your suggestion looks to me like a turbo charged car and as such I suspect it is running an intercooler to bring down the air temperature. The piping is metal because that's the easiest way to manufacture it, as has been pointed out by Wibbly.

As Wibbly also pointed out above, the air entering the airbox on the CBR is as cool as the ambient temperature, as it enters from the front of the bike and has a pretty much direct flow into the engine. I doubt it has any time to go up in temperature. Making the intakes bigger would probably actually slow down the speed of the air and possibly result in LESS power.

The main temperature that needs keeping down is engine temperature. I've ridden a stock bike on track (Catalunya, Barcelona) on a very hot day (high twenties) where I've seen the engine temp hit 110 degrees plus. Over 6 laps I was consistently doing slower lap times in the last 3 laps as the engine temp rose above the 85 degrees ideal and the motor was losing power.

As I mentioned previously, your probably better off just making the inlets and air box out of carbon fibre and reducing the weight. If your suggestion was that beneficial I suspect all MotoGP and WSB factory bikes would do it. But they don't, they use carbon fibre for lightness.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Car intakes are plumbed to the front just like you explain cold air intakes Wibbly. I could go up to my mums 1.2L Suzuki Ignis and show you the front intake mounted/plumbed to the front, stock standard from factory, it doesn't make it a cold air intake because it's simply mounted to the front.

The car in the photo (Carbon Fiber) is a 2000 S15 turbo-intercooled 2.0L SR20DET, running a high quality cold air intake setup, almost everything in the engine bay including the intercooler is aftermarket/custom.

Like I said yeah 10hp is a stretch for a 600cc motor especially considering an average of 117HP. Although I totally disagree with the thought of it making Zero gains. On a Naturally aspirated 4L car you would probably make around 10HP but that's because it's a 4000CC instead of a 600CC. (10HP)4000 ÷ 600 = 6.67 | 10 ÷ 6.67= 1.50HP Random calculations, I don't think it holds any validity because there's a lot of physics I'm probably leaving out, but a 1.5HP gain from just scaling it down kind of sounds right.

Like I was saying if it was hypothetically done with the best parts, a thin metal, deleted plastics and a direct route to the front intake ducts, if it's cooling the air and there's no weight change. It will work like a cold air intake. Which means there are gains however little they are.

Here's a stock Turbo-Intercooled S15 unmodified with a standard air intake, and air box, still plumbed to the front. Like almost all cars. Not a cold air intake.
Just for reference.
Hood Car Vehicle Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle
 
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