Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So i am curious what is considered high mileage for a 600rr 05 model. Little background on mine. It has 18000 miles exactly. Compression is perfect all cylinders valves seem to be in spec with my experience with motors. It fires right up in 1 second cold. Are these tapet valves and how often would one wanna check clearance and timing chain tension I know auto cam chain tensioner. I know on my ktm it's strait forward and the hours are 100 hrs. I don't ride stupid or even take it close to red line so when at what mileage should they be checked. Now this bike was just all done up with power commander dynoed and tuned beautifully but this was 5000 miles ago.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
No idea what is considered high mileage but I'm at 31k miles and mine still runs fine. Just need to do the valve adjustment soon and replace the CCT with a APE manual one.
Pretty sure our bikes are bucket under shim or whatever it's called, i'd have to check the service manual. 16k and 32k is the checks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
I don't ride stupid or even take it close to red line so when at what mileage should they be checked. Now this bike was just all done up with power commander dynoed and tuned beautifully but this was 5000 miles ago.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
I hear this all the time and don't understand it at all. Its a 600cc. These bikes love to rev man. You gotta let her eat.

Maybe I'm the outlier, but I rev my bike out every ride. The high rpms are where this engine was designed to operate. As long as your oil/engine is nice and hot, full throttle and high revs are nothing to be shy about.

Anyway I just crossed 40k miles on my 03. Runs perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I hear this all the time and don't understand it at all. Its a 600cc. These bikes love to rev man. You gotta let her eat.

Maybe I'm the outlier, but I rev my bike out every ride. The high rpms are where this engine was designed to operate. As long as your oil/engine is nice and hot, full throttle and high revs are nothing to be shy about.

Anyway I just crossed 40k miles on my 03. Runs perfect.
I used to be the same no revving out ever. Now she knows ima make her scream at least once a ride. Not gonna have the bike die and regret not riding it proper.

How was your 32k valve adjustment, out of spec or good for the most part?
Also, what does the "Carb crap delete" consist of?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
966 Posts
Revving is fine, once its fully warmed up.
Check valves every 16k miles per the manual.
To me, 30,000 miles is considered alot, because most of them are crashed by then, or just not ridden as a daily and therefor don't get many miles added. I have quite a few more then that on my F4i.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,496 Posts
My first road bike was an '05 600RR. When I sold it I think it was just over 10K miles and it was completely solid.

I used to redline it every single chance I had through every gear I could. Kinda the point of those high revving four cylinder 600 sportbikes, isn't it? They generate virtually no power below 9,000 RPM...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
389 Posts
How was your 32k valve adjustment, out of spec or good for the most part?
Also, what does the "Carb crap delete" consist of?
Actually I haven't done the valves on my RR yet. I bought it at 32k and according to the PO (whom I trust) the valves were good at 25k miles. I'm going to do them real soon, just waiting until the air filter is due so I can kill two birds.

The Carb crap I am referring to is the charcoal canister/solenoid/vacuum lines that comes on CA bikes. It takes the fumes from the gas tank and filters them before finally sending them to the intake to be combusted.

Then there is the PAIR system, which takes filtered air, and sends it into the exhaust system to ignite any unburned fuel.

Removing these systems does not increase power, but it does simplify and lighten the motorcycle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
You shouldn't need to do any valve adjustments until you reach 50K miles or more if you don't do track. It's not to say that you shouldn't check per manual's recommendation. I'm lazy and wanted to replace all 16 valves at once so I don't have to keep on disassembled the bike to check and replace.

Out of curiosity, why would anyone want a manual CCT? Isn't the automatically adjusted ones like our OEM CCT is better so we don't have to keep on adjusting it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
You shouldn't need to do any valve adjustments until you reach 50K miles or more if you don't do track. It's not to say that you shouldn't check per manual's recommendation. I'm lazy and wanted to replace all 16 valves at once so I don't have to keep on disassembled the bike to check and replace.

Out of curiosity, why would anyone want a manual CCT? Isn't the automatically adjusted ones like our OEM CCT is better so we don't have to keep on adjusting it?
Is this true what you say about not having to check the valves until 50k? I'm approaching 16k miles and not sure if I should even bother with valves. I only ride street, no track, and only seasonal riding too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Is this true what you say about not having to check the valves until 50k? I'm approaching 16k miles and not sure if I should even bother with valves. I only ride street, no track, and only seasonal riding too.
It's possible that your valves will be in spec until 50k or so but it is Highly recommended that you check at the 16k mark. Follow the service manual, it's made for your engine specifically, not every engine is gonna have identical readings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
966 Posts
You shouldn't need to do any valve adjustments until you reach 50K miles or more if you don't do track. It's not to say that you shouldn't check per manual's recommendation. I'm lazy and wanted to replace all 16 valves at once so I don't have to keep on disassembled the bike to check and replace.

Out of curiosity, why would anyone want a manual CCT? Isn't the automatically adjusted ones like our OEM CCT is better so we don't have to keep on adjusting it?
There is literally nowhere in any honda manual anywhere in the world that says check the valves every 16k only if you track ride or race. That's a great way to f*ck some stuff up if you try.
As for the CCTL, the oem ones tend to go bad. My F4i went threw 3 or 4 of them by 60k miles. They only apply tension, they don't actually adjust any other way like releasing tension and re applying during the chains pull and slack times while accelerating or decelerating. A manual eliminates the failing oem one and still just a correct job, just requires tightening once in a great while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
Is this true what you say about not having to check the valves until 50k? I'm approaching 16k miles and not sure if I should even bother with valves. I only ride street, no track, and only seasonal riding too.
The manual said to check at every 16K miles but I didn't until it's at 50K miles. I did track and street. You can bet that one of your 16 valves maybe be out of spec at around 16K miles that's why the manual had you check at that value.

It's entirely up to you on how often you want to check/replace them. Your bike would not run at the optimum performance when it's out of spec but it's not something to lose sleep over if you decided to skip checking until it's at 50K miles or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
The manual said to check at every 16K miles but I didn't until it's at 50K miles. I did track and street. You can bet that one of your 16 valves maybe be out of spec at around 16K miles that's why the manual had you check at that value.

It's entirely up to you on how often you want to check/replace them. Your bike would not run at the optimum performance when it's out of spec but it's not something to lose sleep over if you decided to skip checking until it's at 50K miles or so.
what maintenance did you do leading up to the 50K mile mark? For example spark plugs, air filters, or none of the above?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
966 Posts
Most honda's will be out of spec by 30,000 miles. I've never seen one with that much or more mileage that didn't need some adjusted.
Here's the thing. Checking them isn't that hard. You can take the bike apart, check, reassemble and be riding again that night if no adjustments are needed or you happen to have a plethora of shims on you. I like mechanical perfection, but I'm in the minority here I know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,340 Posts
what maintenance did you do leading up to the 50K mile mark? For example spark plugs, air filters, or none of the above?
My previous bike I replaced spark plugs around 36K miles or so. Air filter was around 24K. There's really no rhyme or reason. I just do it when I have time and when it's close to service interval so it's not exactly what the manual suggested. Just like you don't rotate your tires or change oil in your car at the exact mileage.

Noticed I said my previous bike. My current bike is sitting at 58K miles and it's been running fine. I haven't done valve adjustments, spark plugs, or air filter replacement. I did swap out the air filter with an aftermarket BMC once many miles ago and it's overdue.

If you're going to do valve measurements or adjustments, I recommend bring it to the shop. I just ruined a perfectly working bike recently not knowing what I was doing by following the wrong manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
382 Posts
So i am curious what is considered high mileage for a 600rr 05 model. Little background on mine. It has 18000 miles exactly. Compression is perfect all cylinders valves seem to be in spec with my experience with motors. It fires right up in 1 second cold. Are these tapet valves and how often would one wanna check clearance and timing chain tension I know auto cam chain tensioner. I know on my ktm it's strait forward and the hours are 100 hrs. I don't ride stupid or even take it close to red line so when at what mileage should they be checked. Now this bike was just all done up with power commander dynoed and tuned beautifully but this was 5000 miles ago.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
Over 70,000 very hard miles, never have valves been adjusted. Starts up and idles fine, engine runs fine (0-60 3 seconds, and continues to pull to 166+). Issue I have had is broken splice in main wire harness, cam chain tensioner needed replaced, and rear wheel bearings destroyed (my fault).

This bike has been left outside in the heat, rain, snow, and ice for years on end, and with only a little love, it bounces right back.

That said at over 70k hard miles, my clutch and/or transmission is dying and definitely needs work, and I am just now beginning to hear some ticking from my valves, although maybe it's my CCT, not very noticeable, but if you pay attention you can hear it.

These Honda's are some serious machines, not some plastic throw away Chineeeeese scooters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
I am on my 4th cbr over 13 years, I buy them with a couple thousand miles and usually sell around 20k. My first was an f4i that I sold with 32k and it had valves adjusted at 20k that were spec. My 2nd was an 05 that i took to 18k and it never had issues and my 3rd I sold with around 20k again no issues.
On my 4th CBR it currently has 23k miles and I plan on taking it in at the 25k mark for valves, spark plugs and air filter. Everything I have read over the years essentially states that its a waste to take them in at 16 and to wait until you get to the 25-30k mark. Even then most are still in spec or may have very minimal out of spec valve settings. Just my two cents but I would wait a little longer.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top