Have you actually tested for spark and saw bright blue spark jumping each plug???
05 CBR600RR Wont Start (SOLVED)
I've never had any issues with the bike starting. This season when I went to start it for the first time(sitting for roughly a year), it just kept turning over but not starting.
The fuel pump wasn't priming, so I hooked it to power and could confirm it runs. I replaced the front cowl this winter and realized I put the BAS sensor on upside down, which was embarrassing, but after mounting it correctly the fuel filter now primes and everything is good. Or so I thought. The bike still continues to turn over without starting.
I removed the old gas and replaced it with fresh stuff.
I have pulled the plugs and it seems there is spark to each one.
I pulled the fuel line to the rail to confirm that gas was getting to the injectors.
My battery shows 13V on the ohmmeter, and holds a charge well.
I'm not sure what would be the issue at this point. I've just been attempting to start it while WOT due to suggestions on the forum, but I just smell gasoline from I think the exhaust and it refuses to fire up. Am I missing something obvious?
Thanks.
The fuel pump wasn't priming, so I hooked it to power and could confirm it runs. I replaced the front cowl this winter and realized I put the BAS sensor on upside down, which was embarrassing, but after mounting it correctly the fuel filter now primes and everything is good. Or so I thought. The bike still continues to turn over without starting.
I removed the old gas and replaced it with fresh stuff.
I have pulled the plugs and it seems there is spark to each one.
I pulled the fuel line to the rail to confirm that gas was getting to the injectors.
My battery shows 13V on the ohmmeter, and holds a charge well.
I'm not sure what would be the issue at this point. I've just been attempting to start it while WOT due to suggestions on the forum, but I just smell gasoline from I think the exhaust and it refuses to fire up. Am I missing something obvious?
Thanks.
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If you still have it apart pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over to get any residual fuel out. Blow out the cylinders with some compressed air and allow them to dry for 15 minutes.
Verify spark to each of the spark plugs and reinstall.
Try starting it as normal. No WOT. If that fails try starting it on some starter fluid to see if it runs. Don't give it any gas with the throttle.
Inspect your fuel tank for corrosion.
Verify spark to each of the spark plugs and reinstall.
Try starting it as normal. No WOT. If that fails try starting it on some starter fluid to see if it runs. Don't give it any gas with the throttle.
Inspect your fuel tank for corrosion.
Thanks for the advice. I checked the tank for and didn't see any corrosion. I pulled the plugs and blew air in the cylinders and let them dry out a while. I then put some starter fluid in cylinders right before putting the plugs back in and tried to fire it up when it ran for about 1 second.If you still have it apart pull the spark plugs out and spin the engine over to get any residual fuel out. Blow out the cylinders with some compressed air and allow them to dry for 15 minutes.
Verify spark to each of the spark plugs and reinstall.
Try starting it as normal. No WOT. If that fails try starting it on some starter fluid to see if it runs. Don't give it any gas with the throttle.
Inspect your fuel tank for corrosion.
I assume this would imply that it isn't getting gas to the cylinders then(or at least enough)? It seems to be getting fuel to the rail when the pump was priming so would that signal the injectors are dirty/clogged, or am I missing a more obvious answer?
Could also be:
- clogged fuel-pump, just because it spins, doesn't mean it's actually moving any fuel
- clogged fuel-filtre, blocks flow from even brand-new pump
- defective/dislodged FPR
- broken wiring between ECU and injectors
- broken power wiring between engine-stop relay and injectors
- defective MAP sensor
- leaking or disconnected MAP sensor vacuum hose
- broken wiring between MAP sensor and ECU
- defective ECU
- clogged injectors are extremely rare, 99.99% of problems are one or more of above
The most likely source of the problem is one or more of the fuel pump unit components.
You'll need to remove the tank cover and raise the tank up. Use a bungee cord to support the tank. Disconnect the fuel rail and catch the fuel into a container. Use a jumper wire on the Fuel-Cut relay (1st position) and run the pump for 10 secs. You should have about 6.5 ozs US.
Next is to test pressure. install a 100 psi fuel pressure gauge inline on the fuel rail. Jump the pump out a the relay and verify you have at least 50 psi on the fuel rail.
If it fails either test, rebuild the unit with a kit from Quantum or Kemso. You can buy them with or without the pressure regulator.
Pressure Regulator - Either soak yours in carburetor cleaner or another solvent over night and clean it thoroughly, or replace it with a new one. Either way, make sure you use a zip-tie around the PR and strap it to the filter housing so it cannot pop back out of the housing.
When you have everything back together, RETEST your new pump. Confirm you now have good flow volume and pressure before assuming it's fixed. If you find ethanol buildup (yellow caking) clean the fuel tank thoroughly and start using fuel stabilizers and fuel treatments such as Chevron Techron or Royal Purple. Also, keep the tank FULL. Air inside the tank is your enemy.
Since you have almost everything apart, now is a good time to clean and test your injectors.
You'll need to remove the tank cover and raise the tank up. Use a bungee cord to support the tank. Disconnect the fuel rail and catch the fuel into a container. Use a jumper wire on the Fuel-Cut relay (1st position) and run the pump for 10 secs. You should have about 6.5 ozs US.
Next is to test pressure. install a 100 psi fuel pressure gauge inline on the fuel rail. Jump the pump out a the relay and verify you have at least 50 psi on the fuel rail.
If it fails either test, rebuild the unit with a kit from Quantum or Kemso. You can buy them with or without the pressure regulator.
Pressure Regulator - Either soak yours in carburetor cleaner or another solvent over night and clean it thoroughly, or replace it with a new one. Either way, make sure you use a zip-tie around the PR and strap it to the filter housing so it cannot pop back out of the housing.
When you have everything back together, RETEST your new pump. Confirm you now have good flow volume and pressure before assuming it's fixed. If you find ethanol buildup (yellow caking) clean the fuel tank thoroughly and start using fuel stabilizers and fuel treatments such as Chevron Techron or Royal Purple. Also, keep the tank FULL. Air inside the tank is your enemy.
Since you have almost everything apart, now is a good time to clean and test your injectors.
Thanks guys. I completely tore down the fuel pump and cleaned everything thoroughly. After reassembling it, I tested it outside of the tank and it seemed like everything was working fine. Then I reinstalled it and the bike fired right up. =)
That's great news!Thanks guys. I completely tore down the fuel pump and cleaned everything thoroughly. After reassembling it, I tested it outside of the tank and it seemed like everything was working fine. Then I reinstalled it and the bike fired right up. =)
But don't assume all is well just yet. With this bike being a 2005 you should still confirm the fuel pressure, fuel flow volume, and the pressure regulator. It will crank and run even if the fuel pressure or flow is low. But it may lead you into running the bike too lean and burn a hole through a piston. Take the extra time to make SURE you have enough. I hope you zip-tied the PR to the housing so it can't pop back out. That could lead to the same lean scenario.
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