05 FI Light on, can't clear codes, but bike runs normal (SOLVED)

226 Views 17 Replies 3 Participants Last post by dannoxyz, 1 d ago

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · 7 d ago

Hi everyone,

So I bought this bike last October, with the only issue being that the brake light didn't work. Brought to a shop, who spent a literal month working on it, and came back with the info that the only way the get the brake light to work results in the FI light being on, and they suspected a bad ecu because they were getting the 'Stays lit',error.

So I now just got a new ecu for the bike, and I'm trying to clear the codes, but I can't get anything to happen when I'm using the jumper wire or disconnecting the 2 connectors to the cluster. The behavior is when I turn the bike to 'On', the MIL lamp is light up constantly, and the FI light is light for about ~5 seconds and then goes away. When I turn on the bike, it idles a bit low for a few seconds with no lights on, and then the MIL lamp lights up and constantly blinks in intervals of 2 (2 blinks, then a pause), and the FI light stays constantly on.

Trying to reset by jumping the green and brown wires does nothing. I'm assuming it's because the MIL light is always on when it's in 'on' mode.

Mods to bike - yoshi slip on, gearing/sprocket change. I'm getting ready to do power commander and speedo healer, but dont want to until I can get this figured out.

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cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #2 · 7 d ago

Also, the brake light doesnt even work anymore. their fix for it didn't even last the ride home.

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #3 · 7 d ago

The speedo is significantly off but I assumed it's because the sprocket change, could this all be due to a bad speed sensor? I think the 2 blinks could be for code 11?

dannoxyz

· #4 · 7 d ago (Edited)

They're idiots! Brake-light circuit is completely independent and separate from dash & ECU.

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cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #5 · 7 d ago

dannoxyz said:
They're idiots! Brake-light circuit is completely independent and separate from dash & ECU.

Whether they are or not, their diagnosis was that the fi light would turn on when they connected the brake light, and off when they disconnected it.

but now I’m in a position where I have a new ecu, don’t have the tail lights wired at all, and can’t get the light off

dannoxyz

· #6 · 7 d ago (Edited)

cmsmd44 said:
Whether they are or not, their diagnosis was that the fi light would turn on when they connected the brake light, and off when they disconnected it.

That's not diagnosis, it's an observation or effect of real problem. A diagnosis is finding cause of WHY that observation occurs such as "Brake-light's purple-green wire is improperly connected to ECU's red/pink wire."

For example, you observe an effect of "Bike stops running!". Through various troubleshooting steps, your diagnosis of cause of issue is "petrol tank has run empty!". Don't get cause & effect mixed up.

Codes are just effects of real problem. Problems start first, such as wiring fault, that then causes issues and effect is ECU throws up code about sensor circuit. Which is usually comprised of reference power wire, ground wire, and output signal wire.

For code#11 cause may be (straight out of manual): loose or corroded wiring-connector to speed-sensor. Or shorted or broken speed-sensor wiring. When wiring problem such as corroded or broken wire or connector is fixed, then codes go away and your speedo will be accurate. Why replace perfectly-working ECU that's accurately reporting problem with brand-new perfectly-working ECU? Nothing will change.

Defective wires or wiring connections is also why your brake light isn't working properly and also why it interferes with ECU. Obviously some wire from brake light is connected to ECU circuit when it shouldn't be. Disabling brake-light circuit is NOT solution. Restoring wiring back to 100% bone-stock OEM configuration is only real fix. Then brake-lights will work and ECU won't be throwing codes.

Pull out multimeter and start measuring wires to find out which one is defective and fix it. All of this is 5-minute fix with multimeter, or less in many cases.

How to Use a Multimeter - SparkFun Learn

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Reactions: 1

NewRedRider

· #7 · 6 d ago

So let me get this straight.....you took your bike to a so called mechanic for a brake light problem. They proceeded to convince you that you needed a new ECU. Installed a new ECU but the "codes" will not clear. Well, there should be no codes in a NEW ECU! There is NO correlation between the brake light circuit and the MIL light function.

dannoxyz is 100% correct! These people are either the most incompetent mechanics around or the most crooked. I'm betting on the later of the two.

The code is coming from your MAP sensor. The 1/4" vacuum tube is probably disconnected. Lift the tank and look on the (R) side under the fuel rail. Small black sensor with a 2-PIN connector. Make sure it's connected at both ends of the vacuum tube and does not have any holes or leaks.

Reactions: 1

NewRedRider

· #8 · 6 d ago

cmsmd44 said:
Whether they are or not, their diagnosis was that the fi light would turn on when they connected the brake light, and off when they disconnected it.

but now I’m in a position where I have a new ecu, don’t have the tail lights wired at all, and can’t get the light off

Keep the new ECU as a spare or sell it.

Don't take our harsh rebuke personally. We just hate shady crooks who take advantage of innocent people for profit. Please put this so called shop in the Good Guy/Bad guy section so no one else in your area will fall victim to these people. They really should be put out of business for fraud like this.

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #9 · 6 d ago

Sorry, their diagnosis was a faulty ecm, as indicated as a possible fault on the f1 code, and they did go through and checked the wiring, and everything was wired correctly

NewRedRider said:
Keep the new ECU as a spare or sell it.

Don't take our harsh rebuke personally. We just hate shady crooks who take advantage of innocent people for profit. Please put this so called shop in the Good Guy/Bad guy section so no one else in your area will fall victim to these people. They really should be put out of business for fraud like this.

Wow yep you guys were all right this is insane. That stupid little tube was unplugged. Thanks so much

Reactions: 2

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #10 · 6 d ago

Absolutely awful shop, can't believe they couldn't figure that out

NewRedRider

· #11 · 6 d ago

cmsmd44 said:
and they did go through and checked the wiring, and everything was wired correctly

If the brake light is still not working, how did they go through the wiring and verify ANYTHING is working?

They kept your bike for a month and did nothing but screw you out of your hard earned money based on bogus information or outright lies. I would be down there making them reimburse me for their wasting of my time and money.

Now go buy a multimeter and an OEM service manual, review the video lessons danno posted, and find out for yourself why that brake light is not working. You damn sure don't want to give modern drivers any more excuses to run you over. Nor do you want to trust any more shops to work on your bike. This is why my bike hasn't seen the inside of a "shop" since the Honda brake recall in 2005! I value my life too much to trust these crooks.

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #12 · 6 d ago

NewRedRider said:
They kept your bike for a month and did nothing but screw you out of your hard earned money based on bogus information or outright lies. I would be down there making them reimburse me for their wasting of my time and money.

The light was working after I picked it up, and then the next time I went on the bike the light was stuck on, and I pressed the brake and it turned off then back on again, and now it's just constantly off (or on, can't really tell). They verified that the brake switch sensors are working properly. I will go through and re-wire and see what happens

And yeah, I wish I did, here are the other issues from when I picked up the bike

They flushed radiator (preventatively), but didn't tighten hose clamps so I had coolant spraying all over me, and had to bleed out the system that was fine before.

Asked them to wire brake light, and they gave the bike back with the MIL light on. diagnosis was a bad ecu/electrical system and suggested I got another. The issue was that they accidentally unplugged MAP vacuum hose.

Asked for them to try to fix mount for integrated tail light, which was previously held on by a ziptie. They just had it resting in place, and the light was resting on my exhaust by the time I made it home

Asked to adjust clutch cable, when I went to pick up the bike the clutch wasn't even fully engaging, had to adjust it on the lever to get it good enough to make it home. Reasoning was the aftermarket levers

Insisted on using a gasket maker/putty for the clutch cover, but didn't clean up overspray, left a mess.

I would've gone back but I went to them at the end of the season last year, (october) and didn't pickup on these issues until beginning of this year. It's just been too long unfortunately, even though the bike has just been sitting, I didn't want them to think I've been riding it/working on it and caused these issues that they "think" they fixed

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Reactions: 1

NewRedRider

· #13 · 6 d ago

Don't EVER go back to these people. A nest of incompetency at it's finest!

Why do you remove the clutch cover to adjust the clutch?

How does one "verify the wiring" but have the brake light working backwards? Apparently the PO's hack job was better than their work. At least the zip-tie held the light in place.

Did they even try to lube the clutch cable while they were there?

Honestly, I would not ride this bike until I went through all of the brakes, clutch, coolant system, tires, and the wiring to find whatever else they screwed up. Check your coolant fan also to make sure it's coming on at 221°. They may have sabotaged that so it doesn't run to cause another reason for you to come back.

If you still have the same fuel in the tank from then, dump it and get some fresh fuel with Chevron Techron or Purple Power fuel treatment.

Reactions: 1

cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #14 · 6 d ago

NewRedRider said:
Don't EVER go back to these people. A nest of incompetency at it's finest!

Why do you remove the clutch cover to adjust the clutch?

The clutch return spring was broken. But yeah I'm going through everything, thanks for the help

Reactions: 1

NewRedRider

· #15 · 6 d ago

No problem. Get a new spring. Is that their return policy? The broken spring causes the clutch to stay engaged which eventually leads to premature clutch failure. I hate to say it but you need to pull the clutch pack and verify your clutch is assembled correctly. They've proven they cannot be trusted so who knows if they swapped the clutch disc around or what they did. But I would back track through everything they touched!

dannoxyz

· #16 · 6 d ago (Edited)

Here's relevant wiring-diagram section of brake-light circuit. Trace it and verify all connections are correct. Disconnect any other connection that's not shown on diagram.

1. power-feed for brake-lights start at fuse B

2. power goes out wht/grn wire

3. power splits off towards rear & front brake-switches

4. also splits off to power horn-button and clocks. Wht-grn power wire to clocks is only connection. You may find it connects to some other wire, disconnect this improper joint.

5. power at brake-switches is sent back on grn/yel wire when either brake is used (OR circuit)

6. power on grn/yel wire arrives at brake-light and turns it ON.

That's it, simple! Nowhere along this entire circuit does it touch anything on ECU wiring. It's most likely is connected to wrong wire on clocks harness and that's why FI light turns on when you squeeze brake. Remove this improper connection and brakes won't turn on FI light.

Also remove integrated tail-light and go back to stock. I tried it on my '05 and it was so dim when brakes were ON. I didn't want to get rear-ended and put stock lights back on. IF your harness has been hacked up by PO to install integrated light by cutting off OEM connector and wires twisted together with electrical tape, REPAIR harness first by installing OEM connector so any light can be installed by plug-n-play. Get OEM harness connectors here:

3-way for harness - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1702&category_id=58
3-way for taillight - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1703
2-way for harness - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=413&category_id=49
2-way for winkers - https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=415

Factory tail/brake-light: 03-06 HONDA CBR600RR OEM REAR TAIL TAILLIGHT BACK BRAKE LIGHT 33701-MEE-671 | eBay

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cmsmd44

Discussion Starter · #17 · 1 d ago

Issue was improperly set rear brake switch and unplugged MAP vacuum tube for anyone wondering. No wiring issues

The brake switch seems to keep vibrating loose, resulting in it being always triggered. Any tips?

dannoxyz

· #18 · 1 d ago

Front or rear brake switch?

Front should have a screw that holds it to lever-perch. Tighten screw so switch doesn't vibrate loose. Maybe new screw with fresh threads and some light threadlocker.

Still doesn't explain why brake-lights working messes with ECU and throws MIL light on dash.

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