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Discussion Starter #1
I turn the key, click the cutoff switch to run, all the gauges come on, I hear that distinct noise of the fuel pump being initiated, the MIL light goes off after a bit, and when I press the starter the bike clicks rapidly. The clicking is coming from the starter relay area.

I had the battery load tested at Cycle Gear today. The guy told me it was fine. He said the meter didn't go down or anything.

I then checked the 30-amp main fuse on the starter relay, the PGM-FI fuse located in the same area, and then all the other fuses in the fuse box under the left fairing per my CLYMER Honda manual. All fuses are intact. None are broken.

I did not ride from October to January and didn't tender the battery. However, I would start it every two weeks and warm up the engine. In January, after I charged the battery back up, it would only hold a charge for a week and a half. I also noticed also that sometimes when I started it that the clock would reset, but the engine would start no problem. I was riding an average 15 miles a week while this was happening.

This week I rode four days in a row and yesterday I stalled at a stop sign and could not start the bike back up. Just fast clicking coming from the starter relay. I took the battery back to my house and hooked it up to a Deltran battery tender. Steady red light. Charged it to a steady green, reinstalled it, bike started rode it back to my house.

After the advice of Moe and DISCO, I took it to Cycle Gear for load testing, brought it back, installed it and now just fast clicking!

Is it time to take this baby apart and test my starter?

Any help is appreciated. It is great weather here right now and I can't ride, man.
 

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The clicking is the starter relay from not having enough voltage. Usual cause is a bad battery. Next common cause would be a poor connection at the battery.

Before going further into it... you need a voltmeter and check some things. Check the voltage of the battery while holding the starter button and the bike is making the clicking sound. If you're below 11V... Charge the battery and if that doesn't work ... replace it.

If you don't have a volt meter... jump start it from your car or something. If it starts right up... then your starter is fine.

Just a couple ways of easily checking things out before replacing anything unnecessarily.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks dcope. I just went out to my garage and hooked the battery back up to my battery tender, steady red light indicated (per Deltran manual) that the battery is low. I don't get why the battery is not holding a charge after the guy at Cycle Gear tested it fit.

Anyways, I'm going to go buy a voltmeter right now and try your advice, dcope. Thanks again for the speedy reply.
 

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Thanks again for the speedy reply.
I just happen to get on the forum right after you did. I'm willing to bet you'll get less than 11V plus its almost essential to have a volt meter for any other wiring or troubleshooting.
 

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I did not ride from October to January and didn't tender the battery. However, I would start it every two weeks and warm up the engine.
Just fyi, the battery doesn't get charged just idling, I think it kicks in about 4-5k?

As far as your problem, might just need to bite the bullet and get a new battery? Sounds to me like it isn't holding a charge, even if it was tested fine. Who knows.

There could also be a short/frayed wire some where that is causing it to drain. Check your ground wire as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey, big thanks to dcope17 and Romoko for the responses. You guys were dead on. The battery was not holding a charge. It was my fault for not properly maintaining it throughout last winter. I bought a brand new battery, Power Sonic for $80. My bike is back on track and I'm happy! I am taking advantage of the nice weather we are having out here right now because the triple digits are around the corner.

Anyways, thanks again fellas.
 
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