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I have a 600rr which is about a month old. It wont start at all only clicking when I hit the ingnition. The bike was laid down in my garage about a week ago but was not droopped. The only damage was to the edge of the handle bar which was a tiny scratch and has been running fine since then.


I jumped it with my car and it started right up. It would only crank over about four times and die all over again. So I checked the voltage and it's putting out 11.5v. I'm probably going to end up taking back to the dealer.

Any suggestions would be appreciated!
 

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bike starts and dies all over again and i quote
1. check the idle adjuster if the idle is too low or got messed up from dropping the bike the bike wont idle a steady idle therefore will shut off unless you keep on giving it gas

check that & post back up and will try something else
 

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Sorry...I stated that wrong. It idles fine but when I shut her down it will no start up again. As if there is not enough juice for it start back up again.
 

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thetank442003 said:
Sorry...I stated that wrong. It idles fine but when I shut her down it will no start up again. As if there is not enough juice for it start back up again.
This happens regardless of the time you allow the bike to sit
ie lets say you just went for a ride you stop for fuel or a snack
you shut the bike off and when you try to start it the bike is dead
if that is the case then one of 2 things are taking place
1. The battery has a bad cell so its not holding a charge
2. The battery is good but the rectifier/ regulator is not charging
the solution is simple take the battery to discount auto . pep boys
or auto zone for a battery test if it passes then your charging system
is the problem on the other hand if it does not pass them you need a new battery

try these steps and post back up the results good luck
 

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the bike has to be over something like 6k for it to charge! jump it, take it for a 10 minute ride and then check it again... the battery will not charge sitting at idle!
 

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If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. The R/R is verified to be operating correctly at 5,500 rpm at a specified 15.5v. That doesn't mean it doesn't charge at idle.

With that being said, all you need to do is go buy a $20 battery tender and charge it at 1amp for 5-8 hrs. Problem solved. 11.5v is way too low to crank the bike. Read the label on your battery. It says anything lower 12.4v and the battery needs to be charged. Then every 3-4 months charge it the same way regardless of how it cranks. Stop using a car to jump the bike. Only in an emergency and never when the car is running. Amp loads are much, much higher off the car's alternator.
 

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NewRedRider said:
If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
 

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Bensin2 said:
NewRedRider said:
If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
Put a voltmeter on the battery and tell me.
 

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Bensin2 said:
NewRedRider said:
If the bikes is running the battery is being charged. Period. QUOTE]

I've been told by the dealer that the battery will not charge if the bike is just at idle. It has to be over a certain rpm to charge.

Just take it to the dealer. It should still be under warranty. Mine did the same and they replaced the battery for me.
First of all half the guys at dealerships dont know wtf they are ever talking about. So with that cleared up, NewRedRider KNOWS what HES talkin about, the battery is getting the same amount of charge whether its ideling or redlining. Proof of this is how your lights stay at a constant brightness no matter how fast you are going or when you rev it up as it sits in N (in theory). This is the whole purpose of the voltage rectifier/regulator, to "regulate" and keep the charge constant.
 

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The regulator only regulates the voltage coming from the battery to the rest of the bike, not the voltage coming from the Stator to the battery. It's even stated in the Honda manual to rev the bike up to 5k RPMs when testing the charging system.

 

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^^ Umm i dont think so. Someone please correct me if i am wrong. The regulator is inbetween the stator and the battery. That is why when the regulator goes out (which they always do, i've replaced many of these) the battery usually gets fukced because the "raw" voltage from the stator passes right through the faulty regulator and frys the battery with all the unregulated current. Another symptom of a bad regulator is the battery wont hold a charge and I dont see how this would occur if the regulator was AFTER the battery ...
 

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Thats usually the rectifier that goes, a rectifier and a regulator server two different purposes, it just so happens that the rectifier and regulator are built into the same unit on bikes but are not the same thing. The rectifier converts the AC electrical from the Stator into DC.

Plus if the regulator was before the battery, your lights would dimm if the battery got low on juice because the voltage coming from the battery to the bike's electrical would not be constant.
 

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APEX_600RR said:
^^ Umm i dont think so. Someone please correct me if i am wrong. The regulator is inbetween the stator and the battery. That is why when the regulator goes out (which they always do, i've replaced many of these) the battery usually gets fukced because the "raw" voltage from the stator passes right through the faulty regulator and frys the battery with all the unregulated current. Another symptom of a bad regulator is the battery wont hold a charge and I dont see how this would occur if the regulator was AFTER the battery ...
Correct. Otherwise you'd be buying a battery as often as Nemesis.


This is why Honda installed the heat shield over the 04+ models. The 03's didn't have the heat shield and was located too close to the headers. The R/R eventually overheated causing the voltage to fluctuate to high and low for the battery and eventually damages the battery cells.

As far as the posted screenshot, this is why people are getting confused with the "It doesn't charge your battery until 5K rpm". This is a measured, repeatable point (5K rpm) where Honda engineers know what the R/R's output shoud be. It doesn't say that it's not charging unless it's above 5k rpm. Don't read what's not there. If the bike is running the alternator is spinning and is producing electricity.
 
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