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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have been fighting with my beloved bike for a couple months at this point. The bike went from running strong and being properly maintained to a crank but no start condition.

Notable Things already completed
  • The Fuel Pump Primes
  • The Kick Stand Sensor has been bypassed
  • The BAS has been bypassed
  • The yellow box on the wiring harness that commonly shorts has been checked
  • The kill switch works and the relay clicks
  • The spark plugs have been checked.
  • There is fuel pressure I have sprayed myself 3 times
  • The bike will not start with starting fluid and the fuel injectors don't spray if i crank it with the airbox cracked.
  • I have done more but my brain is melted and im sure you will remind me if anyone responds

I have attempted to test every sensor within my ability without having access to an ecm test harness.

I find posts and things about this issue and not one is resolved.

All voltage readings and every single electrical thing i have found has been correct. I have assumed it has been electrical and at this point i have no idea. I have broken down and rebuilt this bike multiple times and I have no idea what to do and am just looking for any ideas or atleast someone to drink with.

If you are readin this Wibbly [admin] , I pray to god you have the answer lol. You were on a thread that spans 2013 to 2017 and the guy never fixed it the last post is him buying a different bike and giving up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A mechanic requested i try cranking with the the Camshaft position sensor unplugged but still installed in the engine to rule out some sort of discrepancy making the ecm unhappy. This had no effect also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Finally new information. I have tested the fuel injector wires and only getting like .45 V on the hot side of them when the key is on. This is not enough to fire them and I must have some resistance in the system causing significant voltage drop. This is a wild goose chase and i'm coming for that goose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had a blinker switch die shortly before this. I wonder if there is any chance it could be causing so much resistance that the voltage to the injectors is too low and they wont fire...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@Mr. Cannon : It was a short time. It was running fine, and then no fire but it would crank. There was a single day of rain where it was outside that preceded the event. This has had me on track for searching for water damage of some kind and have thought it to be electrical or bad gas?. It got put in a garage immediately after. But even still during the process of troubleshooting, literally a month, the starter solonoid went out. I found alot of water corrosion, and replaced it. This was a secondary problem but i fixed it easily because i could tell by the sound of the click something was wrong. This was confirmed with a continuity test.

However...

GREAT NEWS! I got so mad that I was finally motivated to just strip the wire harness. On the left side of the bike if you are sitting on it the wire harness has a red power wire that goes from 1 to 3 wires and has a basic connector on it. Water had penetrated the old electrical tape (its a 2006 that i have ridden every single day for 5 years) and corroded this connection! This was leading to my low power readings at the injectors as well as at the relays.

I confirmed that it is the problem because I get full voltage at the top side of the junction and am only getting like .4v on the low side of the junction. This was creating a crank but no start condition, with the fuel pump priming and other systems functional. This led to the injectors not having enough power to fire and I would assume the same case for spark, but was assuming the no fuel issue was preventing the ecm from ever attempting spark.

I AM SO HAPPY. I am eating but getting back in the garage to clean the wires, add a new connector, and fire up the bike. I will post my victory shortly after it starts even though the wire test confirms it is the source of the voltage drop due to resistance caused by excessive yellow corrosion at an import junction.

:D I caught the wild goose!
 

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Nice, good job tracking that down. I had a similar issue on a used car I got with the brake lights and had to bypass the connector where the pins corroded.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update: The battery died the last day i worked on it and i was unable to confirm resolution of the problem unfortunately. I skateboarded the battery to a parts store for charging today and will do more tests tonight. However there was a single test with low battery voltage but i confirmed power at relays and at the fuel injectors after the repairing the corroded connections found on the wiring harness. However the fuel injectors STILL DID NOT FIRE.

I have found information about a faulty FPR causing the same symptoms where people actually solved the issue. There is a simple test to confirm it is functioning that I will be performing today.

Thank you for the responses everything helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update: nothing worked, I'm back to being pissed off. Still doesn't start. Confirmed fuel in the rails. FPR is fine. RAGE
 

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Update: nothing worked, I'm back to being pissed off. Still doesn't start. Confirmed fuel in the rails. FPR is fine. RAGE
Sorry to hear the news. Have you pulled the plugs to see if they're wet? Rail pressure is one thing but firing is another, and, if it did there is a "de-flooding" procedure where you hold the throttle wide open while cranking. You also mentioned corrosion in a couple places so have you taken apart the right hand controls to check inside? Lastly, did you happen to put in gas right before parking it? My aunt borrowed my car and filled it up and had it towed to a shop when it didn't start. Turns out it was about 30% water and after it was replaced with fresh gas the car ran fine until I sold it.
 
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