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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all
I have a problem with my 06 CBR600RR
Its been kept on a rear paddock stand for the last 2 years as its my 2nd bike and a bit of a showpeice in Movistar colours. I start it now and them the last time about 2 weeks ago. Now it wont start'at' the fuel pump will not prime. Ive checked the relays and the fuses and all is good. Ive cleaned the on/off switch but still nothing. Could it be the BAS but it hasnt been ridden or could it bee rhe pump or the ECU?
Im out of ideas so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
 

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I’ve got a movistar, they’re lovely looking bikes. You got any pictures.

So is the bike turning over strongly ? If the fuel pump isn’t working I guess there’s two likely possibilities which you’ve already mentioned, a dodgy pump or electrical. Might be worth pulling the pump of and putting power directly to it to make sure it’s working. Next option would be putting a multimeter to the BAS to make sure it’s working correctly. Depends how handy you are
 

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First check for ECU DTC codes, might give clue where to look closer.

There's multiple causes of fuel-pump not priming. Follow troubleshooting guide here and figure out why fuel-pump doesn't prime.

Fuel Pump Prime troubleshooting 07-13 w/dannoxyz
 

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Yes! FI fuse (20a) powers entire EFI system. If it's blown, you'll lose:
  • engine-stop relay
  • ECU
  • fuel-injectors
  • ignition coils
  • fuel-pump relay
  • fuel pump
But your dash will still light-up with RPM-sweep when powered on. So it'll give impression that everything's OK. But EFI system will be completely dead!



Pull FI 20a fuse along with all other fuses and measure them. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK!" but actually didn't conduct electricity.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes! FI fuse (20a) powers entire EFI system. If it's blown, you'll lose:
  • engine-stop relay
  • ECU
  • fuel-injectors
  • ignition coils
  • fuel-pump relay
  • fuel pump
But your dash will still light-up with RPM-sweep when powered on. So it'll give impression that everything's OK. But EFI system will be completely dead!



Pull FI 20a fuse along with all other fuses and measure them. I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK!" but actually didn't conduct electricity.

Thanks I will go through these
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’ve got a movistar, they’re lovely looking bikes. You got any pictures.

So is the bike turning over strongly ? If the fuel pump isn’t working I guess there’s two likely possibilities which you’ve already mentioned, a dodgy pump or electrical. Might be worth pulling the pump of and putting power directly to it to make sure it’s working. Next option would be putting a multimeter to the BAS to make sure it’s working correctly. Depends how handy you are
Great looking machine, sadly wont start. Where is the fuel pump located?
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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The fuel pump itself is inside the tank. The fuse Ruby Racing is referring to is the yellow 20a fuse dannoxyz was telling you to check. Don't even look at the fuel pump yet. Check your fuse and go from there.
 

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Check and changed the yellow fuse under the seat but no luck
Follow measurement steps listed here. It's for 07-13 which has different wiring-colours, I'll summarise test steps for 03-06 below.

Basically we're following flow-path of electricity from battery to fuel-pump. Where power stops is your problem. Similar to water-works and irrigation. Pull headlight fuse so you don't run down battery. Then measure.

VOLTAGE TESTS
1. measure voltage at battery-terminals, volts = ???
2. voltage going INTO ignition-switch, red wire, volts = ???
3. key ON, voltage going OUT ignition-switch, red/blk wire, volts = ???
4. voltage going INTO kill-switch, wht/blk wire, volts = ???
5. kill = RUN, voltage going OUT kill-switch, blk wire, volts = ???
6. voltage going into engine stop relay, activation power line, blk wire, volts = ???
7. voltage going into engine stop relay, power-input line, red/wht #1 wire, volts = ??? (there's 2nd red/wht#2 wire with no voltage)
8. voltage going out engine stop relay, output line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
9. voltage going into fuel cut relay, activation power line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
10. voltage going into fuel cut relay, power-input line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
11. voltage going out fuel cut relay, output line, brn wire, volts = ???
12. voltage at fuel-pump connector (under tank), brn wire, volts = ???

GROUND-TESTS - measure resistance to chassis-ground
13. engine stop relay activation ground line, red/wht#2, ohms to chassis-ground = ???
14. fuel-cut relay activation ground line, brn/blk when key ON, and when cranking, ohms to chassis-ground = ???

Simplest way to test relay-terminals is to pop out fusebox and probe terminals underneath.

ONE or more of these measurements may not be correct. Then we'll need to look at what's connected to that wire and see if wire's broken, connector corroded or something misbehaving.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Follow measurement steps listed here. It's for 07-13 which has different wiring-colours, I'll summarise test steps for 03-06 below.

Basically we're following flow-path of electricity from battery to fuel-pump. Where power stops is your problem. Similar to water-works and irrigation. Pull headlight fuse so you don't run down battery. Then measure.

VOLTAGE TESTS
1. measure voltage at battery-terminals, volts = ???
2. voltage going INTO ignition-switch, red wire, volts = ???
3. key ON, voltage going OUT ignition-switch, red/blk wire, volts = ???
4. voltage going INTO kill-switch, wht/blk wire, volts = ???
5. kill = RUN, voltage going OUT kill-switch, blk wire, volts = ???
6. voltage going into engine stop relay, activation power line, blk wire, volts = ???
7. voltage going into engine stop relay, power-input line, red/wht #1 wire, volts = ??? (there's 2nd red/wht#2 wire with no voltage)
8. voltage going out engine stop relay, output line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
9. voltage going into fuel cut relay, activation power line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
10. voltage going into fuel cut relay, power-input line, blk/wht wire, volts = ???
11. voltage going out fuel cut relay, output line, brn wire, volts = ???
12. voltage at fuel-pump connector (under tank), brn wire, volts = ???

GROUND-TESTS - measure resistance to chassis-ground
13. engine stop relay activation ground line, red/wht#2, ohms to chassis-ground = ???
14. fuel-cut relay activation ground line, brn/blk when key ON, and when cranking, ohms to chassis-ground = ???

Simplest way to test relay-terminals is to pop out fusebox and probe terminals underneath.

ONE or more of these measurements may not be correct. Then we'll need to look at what's connected to that wire and see if wire's broken, connector corroded or something misbehaving.
Thanks I'll get on to this at the weekend
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well after extensive electrical testing and stripping the bike, it seems my fuel pump is fubarred. Connected a live feed and nothing. There is also a fine layer of orange rust inside the tank which is probably the route cause. So new fuel pump, expensive, and a tank clean and fingers crossed it wil be ok. Then I'm selling it. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Good job!

Orange might also come from octane-boosters that use organo-metallics. Not good stuff to put in your bike for zero benefits.
 
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You can pick up a good aftermarket pump, strainer, and pressure regulator off Amazon for less than $100. The problem is usually that the strainer gets clogged which starves the pump of fuel, overheats it, and burns up the motor.

Did you jump 12v directly to the Yellow/Red wire going to the fuel pump?

A little surface rust isn't going to make this pump fail. I've had surface rust in my tank for years now. The real danger is big chunks of rust clogging the strainer and starving the pump again. So refill with the best gas you can find and keep it FULL. Storing a bike with a partial tank is one of the worst things you can do.

If you decide to go down the road of trying to clean the rust out of the tank make sure you do not leave any cleaners in the tank any longer than necessary. I was stupid and didn't realize the fuel cap on the tank is cast aluminium. I was using vinegar to clean the surface rust inside the tank and left it soaking outside. Stupid stupid stupid. The tank cap locking mechanism dissolved, the tank cap opened, and filled it with rain water! Now I had an even bigger mess! Don't do this. Either have someone clean the tank or just flush out the loose stuff and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Do you know the link for the afterrmarket fuel pump please. Cheapest i can find in the UK is circa £200 for a 2nd hand one.
Yes jumped it off the yellow and eed wire, nothing going on at all.
Thanks for the advice on the vineger as thats exactly what i was planning to do and won't be storing it empty again.
 

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Your fuel pump is different from mine but you should be able to replace the components separately instead of ordering a complete assembly.

You won't get all of the rust out using vinegar. As soon as you dry the tank from cleaning it will form surface rust. I gave up and just accepted the slight surface rust. If I had to do it again I would probably opt for a product specifically for rust removal.
 

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You can remove rust with Naval Jelly (phosphoric acid). This is only acid that attacks rust and stops at good bare metal. Can find at Home Depot as concrete-cleaner/stain remover. Leaves mildly protective phosphate coating on surface.

DO NOT use oxalix acid as it does not have preferential attack on rust! It will remove good metal along with rust!

Or get complete tank repair kit with rust remover and sealant. Much better than Kreem or other thick coatings that flake off over time and actually clog fuel-system worst than rust. I just did this on my '86 VFR's tank and results are great!
 
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Do you know the link for the afterrmarket fuel pump please. Cheapest i can find in the UK is circa £200 for a 2nd hand one.
Yes jumped it off the yellow and eed wire, nothing going on at all.
Thanks for the advice on the vineger as thats exactly what i was planning to do and won't be storing it empty again.
Be careful of generic EFI pumps from online vendors. Their importers buys pumps at lowest-possible price to maximise profts and you get very low-quality. Many items, especially electronics are bad right out of box! Be sure to buy from seller that offers pump with warranty and has easy return/replacement policies. I got 3 different fuel-pumps for my wife's Toyota and had to return them all. Finally got working one from Toyota dealer.

Stick with brand-name pumps with good track-record:
  • Bosch - BMW OEM
  • Quantum
  • Kemso
  • Walbro
  • HFP
  • Keihin
  • Denso
  • Mitsubishi
  • etc...
 
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