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06 Cooling issue

448 Views 25 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  NewRedRider
I'm having some trouble with my 06. I just got it about 3 months ago and went through it and did normal maintenance after buying a new bike ie; oil and filter, checking chain, and got around to changing coolant. I had no issues with the bike after buying and only put about 1k miles on the previous owners coolant however I changed over to engine ice and that's when my problems began. I cleaned out the over flow bottle and flushed the system with distilled water just as stated in the manual and refilled with engine ice coolant. Everything was fine I burped the system exactly how the manual stated. I'm down in texas with the bike and in a major city where theres lots of stop and go traffic and thats when I noticed the problem. At speed the bike is fine 20 mph or higher hell even lower as long as air is flowing the bike stays around 175-185*. When I'm stopped at a light or sitting in traffic temp begins to climb especially if I get on the bike and push her hard. I initially thought air in system so I burped it again and no change, at one point I took the bike out and sitting in traffic it saw 250* on an 85* day. Not good. Yes the fan is kicking on at 220* and shuts off at 210*. I pulled and inspected the water pump, gear drive is fine and the fins are in great shape. I then went and checked Tstat and it was a little sticky but did eventually open over 190* i replaced anyway since I was there and it was much easier to do once and not have to worry about it. Again same issue... I' about at wits end on this I've never had a bike or vehicle act so finicky with temperatures and I'm running out of idea's short of changing the coolant over to Honda.
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Engine Ice is propylene-glycol and has only 80% of thermal-conductivity of regular ethylene-glycol. And only 60% of thermal-conductivity of water.

As test, change your coolant to distilled water + WaterWetter. You'll find temps will be lower because more heat-BTU/sec will be shed by radiator.
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Engine Ice is propylene-glycol and has only 80% of thermal-conductivity of regular ethylene-glycol. And only 60% of thermal-conductivity of water.

As test, change your coolant to distilled water + WaterWetter. You'll find temps will be lower because more heat-BTU/sec will be shed by radiator.
Even with engine ice I don't think the bike should even be over 200* idling no? It cracked 250* I changed tstat and it runs slightly cooler but still wayyyyy above what it did before coolant change.
Is your cooling fan turning on at proper 220-225F?
If all is as you say (fan working , pump okay, proper amount of coolant) I'd suspect a blockage in the radiator. At speed you'd get enough cooling but standing still there won't be enough. That would require a radiator swap, which isn't hard or expensive.

The best coolant is water btw. Additives are only to lube pump and change the freezing/boiling point.
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If all is as you say (fan working , pump okay, proper amount of coolant) I'd suspect a blockage in the radiator. At speed you'd get enough cooling but standing still there won't be enough. That would require a radiator swap, which isn't hard or expensive.

The best coolant is water btw. Additives are only to lube pump and change the freezing/boiling point.
Thanks Bat. That's probably gonna be the route I head down next. It's just odd that the bike went from completely fine before flush to now being temperamental. Fan is definitely fine as is pump and brand new oem tstat so I guess that leaves coolant and rad. I'll give it a shot and report back with coolant and rad findings.
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I've ran Engine Ice in my '04 for years now. I'm still running it. But after danno commented on another thread I looked up Engine Ice again. It appears they have changed the formula as the freezing point used to be -26°F but is only -7°F now. I would just replace it w/ Distilled water and water wetter to see if it's still overheating. If it is check to make sure the fins in your radiator are not bent or clogged with debris. Take it off and hold it up to a light. Clean it with a soft bristle brush. Straighten any bent fins with a flat blade screwdriver.

If the coolant and system looked good on the inside then I would doubt that there is any problem internally. What did the original coolant look like?

How much are you "snapping" the throttle when you're burping the system? Does water come out? Did air come out?
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Thanks Bat. That's probably gonna be the route I head down next. It's just odd that the bike went from completely fine before flush to now being temperamental. Fan is definitely fine as is pump and brand new oem tstat so I guess that leaves coolant and rad. I'll give it a shot and report back with coolant and rad findings.
Was engine ice always being used, or did you switch to engine ice after the flush?

How many times did you flush it? The reason I ask this is because coolants in general don't like to mix, but engine ice hates it for sure.

Tip: A neat trick to get all that extra build up out is adding vinegar when you flush. However, after using the vinegar make sure to flush again with no vinegar maybe even twice or three times just to make super sure no vinegar is left.

If after the flush it started having issues, the most low level thing to do is make sure it's bled properly of air. Air in your system can and usually will be the cause of the issues if everything else is ok.
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Tip: A neat trick to get all that extra build up out is adding vinegar when you flush. However, after using the vinegar make sure to flush again with no vinegar maybe even twice or three times just to make super sure no vinegar is left.
Good point about mixing coolants but DO NOT use vinegar. I know from personal experience that if you forget and leave it in too long it will DESTROY cast aluminium very quickly. It's not worth it especially since most of these systems are probably pretty clean to begin with. Vinegar would be used to loosen any mineral buildup, which should not be present if you are running distilled water or proper coolant. You're better off to flush it with regular tap water from the hose and then do a final flush with distilled water before switching coolant brands. Vinegar should not be needed unless it's a badly corroded system that has been neglected.
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Good point about mixing coolants but DO NOT use vinegar. I know from personal experience that if you forget and leave it in too long it will DESTROY cast aluminium very quickly. It's not worth it especially since most of these systems are probably pretty clean to begin with. Vinegar would be used to loosen any mineral buildup, which should not be present if you are running distilled water or proper coolant. You're better off to flush it with regular tap water from the hose and then do a final flush with distilled water before switching coolant brands. Vinegar should not be needed unless it's a badly corroded system that has been neglected.
This is true that using vinegar can end up being destructive. Personally, I always flush with vinegar to make sure it's all sparkly inside lol. But I flush 4 times after with just distilled water. Forgetting vinegar in there is 100% not an option lol. If you use that method you do have to be careful.
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If you pee in radiator on side of road because you don't have any extra coolant or water handy, be sure to clean it out eh?
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If you pee in radiator on side of road because you don't have any extra coolant or water handy, be sure to clean it out eh?
LOL. YES!!! 🤣😂🤣 yeah vinegar is really iffy but it's always worked for me, both in cars and bikes. But definitely a nasty liquid to use to get the job done.
LOL. YES!!! 🤣😂🤣 yeah vinegar is really iffy but it's always worked for me, both in cars and bikes. But definitely a nasty liquid to use to get the job done.
Don't get me wrong as I have and probably will use vinegar again. But it won't be in a system that is clean or does not show any signs of corrosion or buildup.

I have an old Gen 2 ('86) Toyota truck with a 22R. Their known for aluminum castings and running hot destroying said aluminium parts. I bought this truck with overheating problems that turned out to be cracked head cylinders between each valve seat in every single cylinder. It had plagued me for years to figure out why this truck would run fine for 1,000's of miles and then all of the sudden start blowing white smoke. Since it had been contaminating the coolant system for decades I used diluted vinegar to flush the system after replacing the head. In this case the juice was worth the squeeze. It dissolved a lot of the rusty buildup and solved the overheating issues.

But one thing I am curious about is whether the OP cranked the bike and ran the engine to circulate the flush water? "Flushing" requires more than just filling the system and draining it. If he didn't run the bike during the flush cycle he could be mixing coolants.
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Yeah, need to completely clear out system multiple times before putting new stuff in. Modern coolants do not mix well with each other. Never ever use DeathCool!!

BTW, did you run engine with cap open to heat up and bring bubbles out to radiator?
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BTW, did you run engine with cap open to heat up and bring bubbles out to radiator?
That's what I was thinking.
When filling a radiator I always lean the bike right over to the opposite side to the filler neck o help get the air out.

In addition, with the help of a couple of mates, invert the front wheel vertically as well.
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Alright guys, sorry for the big delay but I finally got around to the bike yesterday. I switched over from engine ice to distilled water and water wetter. I drained at the water pump, pulled the upper rad hose from pump and even went as far as pulling the rad and dumping the coolant out that was inside it. Afterwards I completely filled and ran just regular distilled water through the bike 2 times to flush it out. On the 3rd time filling the bike I put the water wetter in and flush exactly according to manual. Cap was off, cracked the throttle a couple times, waited for tstat to open and made sure the coolant level was correct. I took it to work this morning, probably about 70* ambient temperature and had no issues running down the highway. The bike stayed right around 168-175, fluctuating at speed but stayed cool. I pulled into where I work and as soon as I idle or go extremely slow where no air comes across the front, the Temps really begin to rise. Before parking and shutting off it once again climbed to 220 and the fan kicked on regulating it down to about 210. I'm almost convinced air somehow is still in the system. On the way home it was pissing rain, so pretty slow on the highways and just smooth. That's where it gets interesting, on the way back the temp was so erratic jumping from 168 to 180 all the way down the highway just all over the place. I watched it jumped from 172 to 176 then back to 166 then 167 so on and so forth. Maybe cause of all the water on the roadway? But man she's still just giving me headaches. At speed it stays completely cool but the instant that front tire stops that's when the Temps start to climb. I'm gonna try and just burp It again and maybe there's a monster air pocket trapped inside but damn is she beating me up.
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If all is as you say (fan working , pump okay, proper amount of coolant) I'd suspect a blockage in the radiator. At speed you'd get enough cooling but standing still there won't be enough. That would require a radiator swap, which isn't hard or expensive.

The best coolant is water btw. Additives are only to lube pump and change the freezing/boiling point.
Also I checked the radiator with it out. Blowing through it there is zero blockage it seems. Air is free flowing through it the entire time
Cap was off, cracked the throttle a couple times, waited for tstat to open and made sure the coolant level was correct.
You have to wait for the bike to warm, the thermostat to open, and THEN blip the throttle a few times until all of the air is out. If the thermostat is not fully open then blipping the throttle does nothing.
I watched it jumped from 172 to 176 then back to 166 then 167 so on and so forth
Yes, you still have air trapped in the system. That's why your temps are jumping all over the place. Not because of rain.
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This doesn't strike me as something to worry about. The bike doesn't care what temp the coolant is as long as it's not well north of 230. If the fan kicks on at about 220 and the temp starts going down you're good to go.

Bike doesn't care if coolant's at 215 or 195 or 175.

You may have a little air in the system but if the pump is circulating coolant that will bleed out through the expansion tank. It's only a problem if you have a large air bubble in the system that's stopping the coolant from circulating, which it doesn't sound like you do.

With air blowing through them these bikes almost always show 175, give or take 5 degrees. Stopped or in stop and go traffic they will quickly go to 220 and turn the fan on. All very normal.

I think the reason manufacturers have largely gone to just 'low to high' scales on coolant temps (or none at all, just a light) is because people fret when they see the temp jump around. But if it's jumping around within it's operating range there is no problem.

V-twins with the dual side-mounted radiators (VFR Interceptors for example) jump around like a yo-yo and if they ain't moving the fan is running. On my V-twin Buell 1250 the fan is on by the time I leave my community and they run all the time if it's over 70 degrees out.
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