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can someone please pm me with what this will do for my bike
 

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At last, a straight forward and correct answer by 'Cozey'.

PAIR REMOVAL is only for tuning purposes to enable accurate readings on the dyno etc. and avoid polluting inlet air . It is listed in the HRC Tuning Manual where hose block off bungs are the only parts used. Everything else is left connected probably for WSB Regs ie weight etc
Pair Valve is a one way reed block. Draws air from the airbox but not the reverse. Tdub
 

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i simply cant understand for the life of me why ANYONE would spend the money for the block off plates.. i mean seriously, use that money for a suspension tune or something

Here is the way i did it, and it was SIMPLE and cost 3.00.

#1. Remove the bottom bolt and top bolt holding the radiator in place.
#2. pull the radiator forward and down (it will fall about 3-5 inches)
#3. remove the hoses from the pair valve plates.
#4. Remove the plug from the pair sensor
#5. remove the bolts from the block off plates, and pull off
#6. Remove the guts of the pair valves.
#7. put a little silicone on the factory pair valve cover
#8. put the bolts back on and tighten.
#9. Install the rubber vacuum block off cap (to be had at ANY hardware or automotive store) 1/2 inch in id size.
#10. instal clamp on the rubber cap and tighten
#11. pull the hose leading up to the air box down and cut off excess.
#12. insert a 1/2inch plug (i used a 1/2 bolt about 3/4 inch long) into the hose with some silicone on it.
#13. put a clamp on and tighten.
#14. install radiator back onto the bike.

total time. 25 minutes.. MAX. total cost 3.00.

this is on my racebike.. i did it for dyno purposes.. i cant understand why anyone would buy block off plates, and or remove the airbox to do one of the EASIEST mods on the bike.
 

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Some people like to be baller and get the plates. They're only $30, if thats gonna make or break you, then you probably shouldn't have a recreational vehicle. Good tip none the less.
 

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hi,

i know this topic is yrs old... but i'll be getting round to it next week or 2

sorry if it's a silly question, but instead of block plates or vacum caps, could the 2 pair outlets just be connected to one another (in a loop) using one of the existing pair hoses?

if i understand (..........) this would have the same effect as plugging the hoses

[i realise the airbox would still need to be plugged]

one of my gixer mates says just to shove a silicone coated ball bearing (of appropriate size) 3" into the airbox pipe & then re-connect the pipe to the airbox, i can see how this would work too... & is the eaisest solution here :)

fyi, what's driving this is needing a plug change (which may be possible without a/box removal) & also some dyno time i've i've got my eye on (i've no issues with airbox removal, well it sux but i've done it before)

cheers in advance
 

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im just wondering if after this mod does the bike make alot of noise
 

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since i had mine installed there is top end noise
 

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hi everyone I realize this is an old thread. when you remove the PAIRS system I have a 2008 600. will It throw FI lights/fault codes if its removed?
 

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hi everyone I realize this is an old thread. when you remove the PAIRS system I have a 2008 600. will It throw FI lights/fault codes if its removed?
Apparently it will not throw any codes.
 

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Does anyone know if we are supposed to hook a breather filter onto this for a pair valve delete? Or is there a hose that goes somewhere?
225059
 
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